27th January. I spoke with the doctor here yesterday and he confirmed that the stitches in my knee will be removed today - and, best news of all, that I'll be going home on Tuesday 2nd February. It's been a long four weeks.
26th January, I had my knee replacement surgery almost 3 weeks ago at the hospital at Bayonne and it appears that the surgeon did a good job. Since arriving here at the Re-education clinic, Bidart, from hospital 2 weeks ago my twice-daily sessions of physio have been targeted at reducing post-op swelling and restoring the usual flexibility. I was released onto some of the more dynamic apparatus in the well-equipped physio room here yesterday afternoon and none of it posed any insurmountable problems. I should be having my stitches out on Thursday - and after that? Who knows.
5th January. I'm off later on this afternoon to the hospital to have a new knee installed.. I've painted a blue ring around the affected limb so there shouldn't be any doubt as to which leg the surgeon should attack with his angle grinder. I hope to be back here in Pipérade Towers towards the end of the month - so you'll have to talk among yourselves for a few weeks.
The condemned man ate a hearty lunch - two of Mr Montauzer's finest boudins blancs with truffles accompanied by sauté'd apple were eased down together with a glass of Saint-Pourçain rouge. Any crevices that remained unfilled were filled with a slice of galette des rois (right). Complete the following phrase in four words: "It's a tough job but someone...................".
2nd January. I hope you all had a happy New Year in spite of the restrictions wherever you might be. It's probably a sign of age but I was glad to pull the plug at 00h15.. and subside gently into a coma.
This was the scene at the dog-walking beach at around 11am this morning at Anglet.. the air temperature was 2°C and there were quite a few surfers out there in the waves. (rather them than me..!)
31st December. As we stumble wearily towards the midnight hour and a brand New Year, who would have thought just 12 short months ago that tonight we'd all be masked up and isolated. Plus, the long drawn-out saga of Brexit has finally been concluded to the satisfaction of both parties.. sign of a good deal (or maybe that we just haven't read the small print!) So, to all the readers of this blog - whoever and wherever you are - let's make 2021 the year when we restore our way of life back to the way it was. Happy New Year one and all!
30th December. I grew up to the sound of my father playing the piano - and endlessly practising pieces like Beethoven's "Moonlight Sonata" - played beautifully with great passion here by Claudio Arrau. I don't think I've ever heard a better interpretation:
We saw Gautier Capuçon, one of France's greatest cellists, here in Anglet a few months ago.. Here he is with Édith Piaf & Marguerite Monnot's "Hymne à l'Amour". Think this is one for full screen:
I'm having my final session of physio this morning prior to the knee 'op' in a week's time. I'll be spending most of January behind bars - 4-5 days in hospital then 2-3 weeks in a sinister-sounding 're-education centre'.. so you'll have to talk among yourselves for a while!
I'd like to take this opportunity to wish both of my long-sufferingoops -standing readers my best wishes for 2021.. Let's hope these new vaccines are effective (now there's a New Year's wish you don't often hear..).
28th December. I woke up early (5.40am) this morning to the sound of a deluge of rain running in the gutters - and winds howling around the house. Fortunately we have these solid wooden shutters at the west-facing back of the house that keep the winter storms at a distance. Grey skies, lashing rain and gusting winds.. it's still blowing hard now. Probably not what you might imagine our lot to be here.. Fortunately we seldom get any snow - and if we do, it's usually gone by lunchtime.
It's now 8.30pm as I write this and it's still blowing a gale and raining as hard as it was this morning.
27th December. I was just returning from walking Nutty along the beach this morning when I put on the car radio - France Musique - and it was an interview with someone talking about their childhood musical influences and she happened to mention Louis Armstrong's "When it's sleepy time down south" and - whoooosh - that took me straight back 60+ years.. My father had an old 78 record of that very tune - and of all the music he played, I'd say it was right up there in his top three. I must have heard it a few hundred times! It's strange - I haven't heard that song or thought of it for decades - and yet - boom - the memory of it brought him back instantly.. so here's the same version (on a 45) of that great old song that my father loved so much:
25th December. A picture's worth a thousand words - so here's the lad himself getting into the Christmas spirit.. (a friend gave him the tie..)
I hope that you all have a happy Christmas - even if your friends and family are at the end of a Zoom call..
22nd December. Time for a Christmas Carol - here's the choir of King's College, Cambridge with "The Angel Gabriel".. (sometimes known as the Old Basque Carol):
It was unseasonably warm here yesterday with 17°C.. and today the forecast is for 19°.. It's definitely not woodburner weather. However, with the current Covid restrictions in place - restaurants, cafés and bars all closed - means that some of the usual pleasures of going out for the day - a seat outside somewhere or a little lunch - are unavailable. I'm not looking for sympathy! (just as well because... fill in the rest yourselves!)
I've been having 3 sessions of physio a week on my right knee in preparation for the forthcoming 'op' in January. My usual physio has taken a week's leave over the festive season and so it was her replacement that I saw yesterday. She gave my knee an intensive work-out and it would be fair to say that your correspondent is presently at the 'ouch' end of the pain spectrum. I have further sessions with her today and tomorrow. (gulp!)
18th December. If only Life was like this.. 😉:
16th December. The house is looking very Christmassy now - Madame has been busy and she has worked her customary magic - and finally Christmas seems real again. If I stood still for long enough I'm sure I'd end up with holly and ivy wound around my extremities!☺
I was in town yesterday evening to collect Nutty (our cocker) from Allo Toutou (the dog groomers). As he wasn't quite ready, I walked down to the Comptoir Irlandais to look at the mouth-watering display of Scotch single malt whiskies. Talking to one of the assistants, she suddenly darted off to the desk and poured me a wee dram of Glenrothes 12 year old.. And a very impressive drop o' the cratur it was too - and very different from Glenmorangie, my preferred single malt. I must have a look in the Spanish shops on the border to see what they charge..
15th December. I picked up an early Christmas present from our local pharmacy the other day.. Yes, a racy pair of aluminium crutches.. although it would no longer surprise me if they had a fancy new name these days - such as "personalised augmented stability system". They'll come in handy when I'm released back into society at the end of January after my replacement knee has been fitted and I've negotiated my way through the 2-3 weeks of post 'op' physiotherapy. (Thinks: there's never a parrot when you want one is there?)
By the way, for the benefit of any Brits in France, here's a helpful newsletter from the British Embassy in Paris.
I'm late with my Christmas shopping this year and I'm struggling for inspiration - especially for those small stocking fillers. Normally, I'm done and dusted by the end of November but for obvious reasons, this wasn't possible this year.
13th December. There was a short feature on TVPI, our local TV station, this morning about the paramotor club at nearby Saint-Pée-sur-Nivelle. I watched the short film in a kind of suspended fascination and fear all at the same time.. I've previously experienced flying viewed from within a metal structure - and so I must admit to feelings of vertigo while watching the video below and, as I don't bounce well, I found myself wondering just how strong the equipment was.. Sitting up at 2-3,000 feet is not the place to be having thoughts like these..
9th December. I guess there's no putting it off any longer - I'll have to start writing my Christmas cards very soon. I've just brought our Made in China Christmas tree* up from the cellar where it's been skulking since January. It just doesn't seem like Christmas..
* I never thought I'd succumb to an artificial tree but they're more manageable than the real variety.
8th December. We've had rain and lots of it over the last few days. Yesterday though, the weather gods decided to crank the dial round into the red zone and what had merely been heavy rain blown by strong gusty winds turned into rain the like of which I've never seen before. From the study window upstairs, the noise was deafening and the intensity of the downpour significantly reduced the visibility across the avenue outside. The poor dog would go outside and come straight back in again. I did manage to take him out at one point when the rain slackened off a touch.. The sky is still heavy with grey storm clouds. My Barbour jacket has rarely been used so much here!
4th December. For many of us, this year's Christmas will be very different - due to Covid - to ones we have known previously. For me, one of the elements that used to 'make' Christmas was the Christmas Carol Service in the centuries-old country church in the Herefordshire village where we used to live. The annual Carol Service was always a special evening in the life of our village as people came together to sing the old carols - and afterwards to enjoy a hot mince pie and a glass of mulled wine with friends and neighbours before heading off home in the dark.
The magic of Christmas is all wrapped up with childhood memories - and yes, they are unique to a time and a place. This is now our home - but even though we are content here, inevitably there will be one or two of the old Christmas rituals that can't be replicated here. Hemingway once observed that "you don't know what Christmas is until you lose it in some foreign land.." - but our experience of Christmas is that it changes as we get older - and so it's no good harking back to days of old - because those Christmasses of yesteryear live on only in our memories - and are unrepeatable.
3rd December. We enjoyed an unexpectedly moving evening here in town a year or two ago - a riverside Chinese lantern festival. Watch this in wonder - like the many goggle-eyed small children who were present that night. It was later reported that around 50,000 people were present in Bayonne's narrow streets - and its very success means that it is likely to fall victim to the confinement this year. (Edited to add: yes, it's official - sadly, no mass release of Chinese lanterns this year..) This video is from 2018.. it was an incredibly moving event..
29th November. We've been sampling the Beaujolais Nouveau (right) over the last few days.. (a tough job but.. etc etc) My recommendation - for what it's worth - would be to try Georges Duboeuf's offering..
28th November. Prior to the arrival of the Covid 19 pandemic, the choir I used to sing with had been rehearsing this sublime piece by Mozart - Laudate Dominum (KV339) - but sadly Covid 19 shut everything down and we were never able to perform it in a concert*. The Laudate was a really satisfying piece to sing - the choir comes in at 2:45 in the recording below (needless to say this wasn't my choir!). Here's Barbara Hendricks first with the Laudate followed by Handel's Hallelujah Chorus:
* My memory's going! I bumped into one of the ladies from the choir yesterday and she said that we had performed the Laudate at the last concert that preceded the lockdown.. My memory's like a Swiss cheese!
27th November. In a broadcast to the nation on Tuesday evening, President Macron loosened the grip of the current lockdown, which will be replaced by a curfew from 15 December. He announced that the easing of restrictions would not take place overnight but in three phases until January 20th. He warned that its implementation will depend on the evolution of the epidemic.
Phase 1: The easing will begin on Saturday, November 28: the lockdown will remain in place, but the certificate that people currently use when they leave home, will allow people to travel 20 km from home instead of one, and for three hours instead of one*. He also lifted the constraints on Christmas shopping by reopening all so-called "non-essential" shops such as bookshops and clothing shops until 9 pm. Restaurants and bars, however, will remain closed.
* Nutty, our cocker spaniel, will be happy with this news as it means we can give him a good run on the beach!
Phase 2: The second stage is set for December 15th, the day on which "the confinement can be lifted" if health conditions permit. It will be replaced by a curfew from 9pm to 7am throughout the country, with an exception for Christmas Eve and New Year's Eve, when people will be free to travel. A 'truce' at the end of the year has also been agreed upon by several neighbouring countries, such as the United Kingdom, which on Tuesday authorised family reunions from 23 to 27 December, while Germany plans to limit the number of participants in family celebrations to ten people.
From December 15th, cinemas, theatres, and museums will be allowed to reopen, but gatherings and festive events will continue to be banned.
Phase 3: The third phase will begin on 20 January with the potential reopening of restaurants and sports halls. However, no date has been set for the bars and discotheques.
Vaccines: The vaccination, which will not be compulsory, will be able to start "in late December-early January" for "the most vulnerable people". France, together with the European Union, has "secured the number of doses" needed to secure the population, he said.
After the first vaccines became available at the end of December, a second generation of vaccine is expected in the spring.
25th November. Hard to believe but Chr****as is but a month away.. Normally, by this time, I'm just about all shopped-out - but with all the shops having been closed, the secret hiding place for presents on top of an old armoire has yet to be used.
Here's Joe Pass with his jazz guitar version of "Autumn Leaves" - New York magazine wrote of him that: "Joe Pass looks like somebody's uncle and plays guitar like nobody's business." (You can listen to more of his beautiful playing here)
21st November. We're definitely heading into winter down here. Yesterday, I put the all-weather cover over the table that stays out on the terrace and I raked up another pile of leaves from the red maple down the bottom of the garden. The plancha has already been greased and put away and the hortensia (hydrangea) shrubs / bushes (which is the right description?) have been pruned. The lawn is looking healthy and it's still growing.
I think we're just about ready for winter and the westerly gale-force winds that will soon be blowing in from the Bay of Biscay (known as the Golfe de Gascogne here). It will be interesting to see how the new west-facing garage door will stand up to the pounding. We'd replaced the original doors with a new set of wooden sliding doors about 10 years ago - but as they too were starting to fall apart, we replaced them a few weeks ago with a roller-type system (with another remote control to lose!).
Lit the wood-burner last night - and its comforting warm glow was very welcome. It's another indicator that winter's on its way. We seldom get snow here or even frost - but we do get storms in from the sea and they blow really hard. Over the years, we've gradually sealed off all the possible entry points so now, even when it blows, we're toasty warm.
20th November. As the dog-grooming service in town that we normally use is closed due to the current Covid restrictions, we took Nutty to Jardiland (a ginormous garden centre at Bassussarry) where a self-service dog washing facility has recently been installed inside the mammoth store. I'd like to say that he enjoyed the experience but while it was very convenient and practical for us, he made it clear that once was enough for him..
16th November. Here's something for late night listening - perhaps with a glass of something Scottish - John Coltrane with his "My Favorite Things" recorded in 1961:
And if we're talking about the wee small hours, if sleep is hard to find, when the mind insists on running through endless replays, when it seems your watch has stopped - there's nothing better than Chet Baker and his instrumental version of "My Funny Valentine". By the way, my patented late night shuffle around the dance floor was made for music like this!
15th November. With so many retail outlets being shut down, it's going to be harder than ever to find original Christmas presents this year - but if you love this part of south western France (and if not, why not?!) then you can't do much better than to browse Perry Taylor's site. He's a talented cartoonist living in the Gers - and the rural way of life there clearly inspires him. He has something for everyone on his site - all of which are related to life (and ducks!) in la France profonde. I'd be extremely surprised if you can't find that special something for your special someone from his well-observed and very funny collection.
13th November. Jean Castex, the French Prime Minister, gave a briefing on the Covid 19 situation yesterday evening. He said there were early signs of a tapering in the Covid-19 figures in France but that current lockdown measures, set to last until December 1, would remain in place.
Any loosening of restrictions after that date would be "strictly limited" to certain businesses and would exclude bars, restaurants and sports halls, Castex said. One in four deaths in France were now due to Covid-19. The number of people in hospital care for Covid-19 in France is now higher than during a previous peak in April. Castex told the news briefing that there were now more than 32,000 Covid patients in hospitals, adding that a new Covid-19 case was admitted to hospital every 30 seconds and one into intensive care every three minutes.
The government will impose further restrictions if the coronavirus outbreak worsens in the coming days but could also decide to loosen restrictions over the holidays if the situation warrants it.
France is two weeks into a new national lockdown that has hit the economy but some politicians are hoping that if the country's Covid-19 figures improve the country may be able to re-open major shops and businesses for Christmas.
Economy Minister Bruno Le Maire said earlier Thursday that the economic boost provided by the crucial Christmas shopping season could be salvaged — provided people abide by the health restrictions until then.
"What I wish is that we can save December for retailers ... What will dictate the decision of the prime minister and of the president is the protection of the safety of the French population," Le Maire told BFM Business radio. "We could have a dynamic December" if the population sticks to current guidelines, he added.
(If hospitals down here in the South West are accepting patients in intensive care from elsewhere, I doubt now that my knee replacement surgery will go ahead as scheduled for early January.)
10th November. Day 13 - the 'confinement' continues..
Meanwhile, here are some views of Bayonne taken during summer here..
The video below really gives a good idea of the town behind those quirky riverside properties:
7th November. Yesterday we went to our local pharmacy for our annual flu jab.. In something of a "first" for me, I didn't feel a thing as the needle went in and I have no after-effects - no lump, no soreness, nada. It was one of the girls behind the counter who did it - and talking to her a few months ago, she told me that her pharmacist's training in France took 6 years.
Later in the day, we walked to the local hospital for an MRI scan of my right knee.. It was to ensure that the prosthetic replacement will be exactly the right size - and shouldn't need too much percussion adjustment with a ball peen hammer. I suspect though that my op planned for early January might well be postponed due to the second Covid wave..
En route to the hospital, we saw three more formations of cranes heading south - all more or less in vee formations - with their distinctive squawking.
5th November. About a year ago, I was outside in the garden with the dog at around 3am (when you've gotta go, you've gotta go) (him, not me) when I heard the flapping of hundreds (if not more) of wings as a ghostly formation of cranes flew overhead in the moonlight on their way to sunnier climes..
Last night I heard some raucous squawking from on high - and sure enough it was a mighty vee formation of cranes on their way south..
2nd November. This atmospheric piece is another favourite of mine: it's the 2nd Movement from Antonín Dvořák's Symphony No. 9 in E minor, Op. 95 - close your eyes and let your mind soar..
We (finally) had a warm weekend here.. with temps in the low to mid twenties. So - leaves were raked up, the grass was mown, trees and bushes were pruned - after which all the garden detritus was whipped off to the nearby décheterie (waste/recycling centre) - having first remembered to complete and sign the latest form, duly timed and dated, required for excursions outwith the home - and to pick up a mask. I don't have a problem with these latest measures if they'll reduce the Covid infection rate. No-one knows how long this latest confinement will last.
I must say I have the utmost sympathy with the hundreds and thousands of small business owners who are constantly on the back foot - how can they plan for the future against a moving target.. do they order stocks for the festive season - and beyond - or not..? Bookshops have been closed yet wine shops are open. I think many small businesses will go to the wall - never to return - leaving us only with the online retail giants.
I've finally cracked - I've just ordered a tablet..
1st November. In another media feeding frenzy, legions of European chatterati are in the US right now waiting to tell us what the 'mood' of the American people is before, during and after Tuesday's Presidential election. It's worth bearing this advice in mind: "People shouldn't be afraid of their government. Governments should be afraid of their people."
25th October. Here's Yuja Wang (a favourite of mine) with her interpretation of Rachmaninov's Prelude in G Minor, Op. 23, No. 5:
Here are some other great performances by her. I don't think I've ever heard a more beautiful interpretation of Rachmaninov's Piano Concerto No. 2 in C minor, Opus18 than hers (the second piece on the above link).
21st October. This evening, President Macron delivered a moving homage to Samuel Paty in the courtyard of the Sorbonne. Samuel Paty was the teacher who was foully murdered outside his school a few days ago. The President's words are worth reading.
14th October. We can usually still eat outside during October and sometimes on into November - but not this year. Threatening skies, intense showers that blow through, low temperatures - October feels more like mid-winter. On the plus side, The "vitrification"* work we had done on the stairs and the cellar has dried off - so we can sleep upstairs again.
* I think this means something different in French.
11th October. I like the originality of Glen Baxter's quirky old style cartoons:
7th October. The diary is filling up quickly with dates for various events.. The wooden stairs and the joists in the cellar have both needed treatment against woodworm - the stairs needed sanding first before they and the joists were treated with a toxic-smelling product. One of the outcomes was that we had to sleep downstairs as the product was still soaking into the stairs. Then next Monday, the stairs will be treated to what they call here a vitrification process.. so another restless night sleeping on the floor downstairs looms!
We're also looking at changing the car - and trying to find our way through the mass of information presented by the concessionaires. We have a few test drives awaiting us - the main aim being to assess whether there's enough leg room for me - and also to check on the compliance of the suspension over the sometimes bumpy roads here. Our current car seems to bump and jolt its way over the slightest deformations of the road surface. We're looking at a petrol-engined car as we don't do much driving. I'm more than happy to stay in this corner of France with only the occasional trip elsewhere!
Then after 10 years or so of various treatments to my knees, the scope for further treatment has reduced to zero and so I'm booked in for a replacement right knee in early January. First, I have to have 15 sessions of physio (3 per week for 5 weeks) to prepare my muscles for the surgery (to improve my recovery time) - then the "op" - after which I'll spend 4-5 days in hospital - before going to a centre for "re-education" (ie, more physio!) for 2-3 weeks. Madame seems to think I'll need a tablet of some kind to keep on top of my emails (and a couple of my blogs) - French daytime TV being just as dire as that in the UK.
Something to look forward to then!
3rd October. Driving rain and thunderstorms this morning.. I went out briefly to buy some logs - and returned soaked. Meanwhile, Nutty is waiting patiently for a gap in the rain for his morning walk. He's checked the garden over a few times but it's not the same.
2nd October. Never has Dylan Thomas' poem about October seemed more relevant.. Over the space of a handful of days, we moved from a "shorts and t-shirt" summer straight into mid-Autumn (and worse) without the respite usually offered by those golden days of September.
Before September was out, I seriously thought about lighting our wood burner but I was talked out of it. Great leathery leaves (a foot across) from platanes have been swirling and drifting down the avenue for days now - and burnished conkers abound under the chestnut trees and beech nuts are all over the pavements (sidewalks).
The wonderfully resonant sound of Gautier Capuçon's 300 year old cello that we heard during the concert at the Château de Baroja in August has been on my mind of late too. It was the first time I'd ever heard a solo cello live (so much more alive than a CD) and the clarity of that sound cut straight through all my mental baggage and registered directly with my emotions. It was something I'd not experienced before and I lost myself in the performance.
Max Bruch's Kol Nidre is arguably the finest piece ever written for a cello - and it's played here by arguably the cello's greatest virtuoso - Jacqueline du Pré, who contracted MS (of all things) and from which she died tragically young at the age of 42.
26th September. If you feel like dipping a toe gingerly into the music of the 1970s, try Nostalgie Best of 70s.
The new memorial up in the mountains to those of the WWII Comet Line is now complete - however, its official inauguration will take place at a future date to be specified - September 2021 would be the preferred option - but it all depends on COVID. Here it is with the descriptive plaque (in four languages: French, English, Spanish & Basque) fixed firmly in place:
If you're wondering why we chose a stone memorial in this format - it's because there are several wild cattle and horses (pottoks) loose up there in the hills and there's a shortage of trees and other suitable scratching posts.. This memorial should be safe from most of their depredations and also from those of today's souvenir hunters. (New for us: we put a QR code on the panel to link straight to our blog for more info)
25th September. Answers to questions that haven't been asked:What does "furlough" mean? Up until very recently, it was a word that wasn't in common usage in the UK. See here.
I came across this panorama of the Pyrenees in the vicinity of Saint-Étienne-de-Baïgorry.. It gives a superb feel for the high country to be found only 45 minutes inland from the coast here - you should be able to zoom into the image. More panoramas from elsewhere in France here.
24th September. I think there must be a mouse in the house. The deliciously moist fruit and nut cake that arrived from the Gers a couple of days ago is steadily reducing in size by the hour. Despite me being careful to maintain the wrapping in its original state, Madame seems to know (as if by magic) exactly how much cake is left and what its current rate of consumption is.. She's working on the "and who by"..
22nd September. One of the great guitar solos in pop music came up on the radio earlier - remember this? (fast forward to 1:30 and 2:54 to enjoy the late Tony Peluso's virtuosity).
We had a very pleasant surprise this morning - the postman arrived with an unexpected parcel for us - a large tupperware container holding a well-wrapped fruit & nut cake made by J (our friend from the Gers).. I'll be interviewing it with a coffee later on this morning once I've found my elasticated waist pants. I don't know what I've done to deserve this, but as soon as I find out, I'll do more of it! It's really very kind of her - and it's greatly appreciated - especially so when its arrival was unexpected. Looking forward to mid-morning! 😋
20th September. Stepping outside this morning around 6am, for the first time I caught the first whiff of something that smelt of autumn.. a hint of decaying vegetation, leaves and wet grass.
18th September. C and J, our friends from the Gers, came over for a night stop at St-J-de-L on Wednesday evening. Yesterday, I took them high up into the hills via a favourite route - a tortuous single track lane that winds ever-higher and takes in some of the most spectacular views of the foothills of the near-Pyrenees. Yesterday, the country looked at its best with breathtaking views in all directions. September is a busy tourist month and sure enough, our meeting point - Espelette - was awash with 'silver' tourists and camping cars (camper vans in the UK).
We had a brief look at the centre of Espelette and, after a quick coffee, we took to the back country lanes. At one point, I stopped to show them a gem of a stone cottage (one that I've long admired) set in a wooded valley that would make for the perfect weekend retreat.
We continued climbing and eventually, after inching our way past groups of wild cattle and pottoks (wild horses) we broke out on top of a ridge (in Spain, just south of Gorospil Lepoa) and there we stopped. There were a couple of other cars there but considering this was still prime tourist season, it was refreshingly peaceful. C and J both remarked on the silence. This area sat astride one of the key routes used by evading Allied aircrew as they sought to cross into Spain in WWII - except they travelled by night in what must have been a nerve-jangling experience. We took a short walk via a narrow sheep track to a point of interest - the only point from where a legendary wartime 'safe house' (Xan Mihura sheltered 128 aircrew at Jauregiko Borda) in Spain could be seen far below (its small white end wall is just visible to the left of the base of the dead tree).
This stone memorial to the men and women of Comète was erected a few weeks ago - and a descriptive plaque will be fixed in place next week.
We returned to the cars and drove to Esteben Borda where we enjoyed a real Basque country lunch - soup, omelette with farm ham and home-made pork sausages, then some Brébis (sheep's milk cheese) served with the traditional accompaniment - local black cherry jam, before finishing with coffee.. All that, plus vin compris, for 17€. Here are some future sausages taking a load off!
14th September. Normally, this weekend just gone would have seen me and many others up in the mountains walking over the exact same routes used by Comet Line guides and the evading Allied aircrews as they attempted to cross the Pyrenees into Spain during WWII (more here). Given the heat that has hung heavy over us over the past few days like a blanket, I think we dodged a bullet there!
After a long hot afternoon yesterday, I took the dog down to the Plage des Cavaliers at Anglet for a well-deserved run.. We didn't stay too long as the heat was oppressive and there was no sea breeze to provide any respite. On the way home at 7.15pm, I notived that the car indicated that the outside air temperature was a stifling 37°C (98.6°F in Ye Olde half-timbered Fahrenheit) - and it felt like every single degree of it. 11th September. This French song from the 1960s has been bugging me for a few weeks. I keep hearing it on the radio but it's difficult to identify a song without knowing the singer or the title. I mistakenly thought it was Gilbert Bécaud - and I suspected 'Alouette' was in the title somewhere. Fortunately, the phone rang a few minutes ago before I forgot the tune - it was a friend of mine - I sang him the tune and he came up with the title "Alouette, Alouette". Here's Gilles Dreu with his 1968 hit - a real 60s sound - and don't blame me if the tune stays in your head all day!
7th September. I just caught a snatch of this piece (one of my father's favourites) on the radio and luckily the announcer gave its name: Chopin, Les Sylphides - Prelude in A major, Op. 28 No. 7:
We went to the Grande Plage at Biarritz yesterday morning with the intention of having a coffee at the Bleu Café - it's ideally situated for watching the surfers and general people watching. However, we were surprised to see that all its tables and chairs had been cleared away - I wonder if they've been closed down* for ignoring the Covid sanitary regulations - because normally they are open till later in the season.
* I later heard that that is indeed the case - along with another old favourite - Bar Jean.
I can't believe how quickly September has suddenly arrived upon us. However, all is not lost.. Anecdotal evidence would suggest that September in the Pays Basque is the best month of the year - the summer crowds having largely dispersed, the weather is settled - usually at around 25°C - and parking is easier. The odd shower or two revives the greenery and the misty blue mountains look their best under cloudless skies.
"Do you remember how we danced that night away
Two lovers playing scenes from some romantic play
September morning still can make me feel that way."
31st August. I'm looking for some help - most UK online radio news stations make me want to put my foot through the radio - generally within the first minute of switching it on. For years, BBC Radio 4 was the benchmark but for a good few years it's been populated by 'personalities' - and it appears that we have to know their names. Does anyone 'out there' know of any online news stations other than BBC R4, TalkRADIO, Times Radio or LBC that offer intelligent news reporting but minus the blah..? If so, please let me know via the contact facility in the left hand column. Thanks in advance!
Here are a couple of old-style BBC station announcements that will take some of you back in time: here and here - before we had 'at the top of the hour'.. and self-absorbed promos like this.
The last two months - ie, the summer season - have flown by.. There appeared to be far more tourists than usual here - I heard that Biarritz received 20% more tourists than in previous years. For me though, September - the best month - is to come.
23rd August. I spotted an extremely rare car this morning en route to the beach - it was a Citroën Traction Avant Cabriolet in pale blue in exceptional condition. 20th August. Before we leave Gautier Capuçon to fade away in our wake, here he is up in the Swiss Alps with Le Cygne (The Swan) by Camille Saint-Saëns:
18th August. We went out this morning with the dog to walk around the Lac de Saint Pée sur Nivelle - an artificial lake with plenty of activities for the young - and the not-so-young.
After a really pleasant walk we ended up in need of a cold drink - so stopping off at "Bizi" restaurant (overlooking the lake) seemed a good idea. One thing predictably led to another and we found ourselves ordering two Caesar salads for lunch. They were delicious but, as they say here, incredibly copieuse (ie, generous servings). For those who prefer a picnic, the lakeside was well-supplied with tables in twos and threes. 17th August. We were out yesterday celebrating a major milestone birthday for Madame - and so we went to (another!) one of our favourite places - the Hotel Arraya at Sare - for lunch. Given that many French people appear to have taken their holidays in France this year - plus the fact it was over a Bank holiday (August 15th) weekend - the roads were understandably dense with traffic.
All the tables outside the hotel were occupied - but fortunately we'd reserved a table in their oh-so-traditional Basque dining room - leaving those diners outside to compete with the rumble of passing Harleys (ridden by aging boomers! <= interesting read).
The hotel also has a small giftshop featuring, among other things, distinctive hand-made leather goods from Laffargue, the long-established shop at Saint-Jean-de-Luz that's Numero Uno with Madame. Browsing the wines on display in the giftshop, I spotted a bottle of Irouléguy from Domaine Mourguy (right - mentioned a couple of posts ago). I'll open it when the weather cools down a little.
To say we were impressed by the Arraya would be an understatement - they have raised the bar by several notches. Given the surroundings, the views, the effervescent staff, the originality and quality of the cooking - Arraya has now whizzed straight to the top of our short list of favoured establishments in the local area. Congratulations to Jean-Baptiste Fagoaga and his friendly staff - and thank you for a superb lunch. 10th August. The police here have arrested a young man (16 years old) in connection with the forest fires at Pignada on 30th July. My question to you all is this: what do we do with him? I believe he was in care, and had been in a foster home and had demonstrated pyromania tendencies before - so it seems that he's a disturbed young man. More here.
9th August. Last night we went to an open air concert given by cellist Gautier Capuçon and Jérôme Ducros (piano) in the grounds of the Château de Baroja (right), Anglet. Five hundred free tickets were made available by Anglet Town Hall and so, with parking spaces at a premium, we decided to arrive early! Just as well - we managed to find two centre seats in the second row. What a night.. The concert started in daylight and as dusk fell, the soft lights of the château were switched on and it became a magical and highly memorable experience. Several times I found my hair standing on end (and it's nice to still be able to say that at my advanced age! 😏).
Capuçon's instrument is a Matteo Goffriller cello (left) - made in 1701 - which he has on loan. It had a resonance and a sonority that was clear from the start - especially in the lower register of the strings. Astonishing to think that this instrument is still capable of performing at the highest level 320 years after it was constructed. Or is it similar to the ship of Theseus perhaps?
I remember once seeing a programme about a luthier (a violin maker) - and how he selected the wood for his violins. He would tap the pieces of wood he was interested in and usually the sounds they gave off were dull clunks (technical term!). However, if the wood rang like a bell, that was the piece what he was looking for.. (more on this here)
This is a performance he gave from his home during the lock-down.
Gautier was also one of the judges on France 2's programme "Prodigies of the Year" - and here he is with Maxime, a young cellist:
Here's Maxime with John Williams theme from "Schindler's List..
And here are some photos of the concert - I must say that the staging of the concert was superb - it was filmed and projected in real time on to a large screen. (click to enlarge the images)
Château de Baroja
Gautier Capuçon
Gautier Capuçon and Jérôme Ducros
Photos: Ville d'Anglet - K.Pierret-Delage.
Well done to Jean-Michel Barate and his team from Anglet Town Hall - and many thanks - for the flawless organisation of the event.👍
8th August. I've postedthis dazzling 15 minute aerial view of Paris by Yann Arthus-Bertrand before - and I make no apologies for posting it again. The viewpoint is ideal for enjoying the city's spectacular architectural riches - particularly the jewel that's the Place des Vosges (it comes up at 12:15). This is a film that can be watched time and time again - and, need I say it, it's best in full screen.
7th August. Here's an aerial view of the Pignada forest that was destroyed in the recent fires. While eleven houses were damaged and five were destroyed, no-one was hurt. The burnt patch (left of centre) is exactly where I've been taking Nutty for walks - and there were many tall maritime pines there:
6th August. An evening walk along the beach at the Plage des Cavaliers is called for - we went last night at 9pm and it was very refreshing compared to here (just 10 mins away).
At 6.30pm, our garden thermometer was still showing 37°.. too hot for me.
According to the evening news, it was 40°C in the shade at Biarritz today.
We made a lightning visit to Saint-Jean-de-Luz this morning for some urgent shopping. I don't think I've ever seen the town so crowded. It appears that many French are holidaying at home this year.
We had a visit from Eric (aka the Magic Carpenter) at 7.30 this morning.. The recent heat we've had here had caused some of our hefty wooden shutters to warp (they were designed to keep out the worst of the winter weather - not the sunshine!) to the point where it became impossible to close a few of them.
Our four-legged friend had me out of bed at 3.30am this morning for his usual nocturnal inspection of his territory - added to which we had the alarm set for 6.30am - I think Madame and I both had some sleep deficit to make good on this afternoon behind our newly adjusted shutters that can now be closed. 4th August. I forgot to mention that flat peaches are back in season again. We keep a dish of them in the fridge and they're ideal for breakfast!
We have a red maple down the garden and already it's started to shed its leaves.. I've also noticed conkers on the ground around the base of the numerous horse chestnut trees in the neighbourhood. This isn't usual on 4th August.. or is it? Is it due to lack of rainfall?
In the mid-1990s, I was fortunate to spend several years in Pordenone (Eng sub-titles available) in Friuli in north-east Italy. It was there that I discovered pappardelle all'uovo among other things.. This is ribbon pasta (about ¾ inch wide) made with eggs - and it was de-lic-ious!
I first came across it at the idyllic setting of the Ristorante Zaia, Polcenigo, where it was served with crab*. I spent more than a few enjoyable lunchtimes on this little terrace (left) over the cooling torrent of turquoise-blue water (from the nearby spring at Gorgazzo) while sitting in the shade of an overhead vine. Happy days..
Sadly, it appears that Zaia, as I knew it 25 years ago, is no longer in business. I see that the new owners have changed the name - along with the menu. A great shame - as its situation was perfect and the whole experience was always faultless. While I enjoyed the local Pinot Nero, it was also about the only ristorante I knew in that region that stocked French wine.
For my final visit there, I'd brought a large group with me and as we were leaving, Roberto (the maître d') - always impeccable in black tie - took my elbow and said, "Signore, next time you come with your wife, it's as my guest". Where else but Italy do you find a gesture like that?
* I'm trying to persuade Madame to make it like that one of these days.
Michelis Pappardelle all'uovo al bronzo (above right) is an Italian brand and this is what we had at lunchtime today - with garlicky mushrooms and chopped parsley. Highly recommended. (Question du Jour: Why al bronzo? Answer here)
My other discovery in the Friuli region was Prosciutto di San Daniele. As much as I like Jambon de Bayonne (and I like it a lot), I must be honest and elevate the local San Danieli prosciutto (right) to the top rank. Before returning to the UK, I'd pay a call to a local independent grocer and ask him for 400gms of prosciutto sliced wafer thin.
A final call would be to Vigneti Pittaro - a local wine producer - to collect a case of their excellent Cabernet. This quote - attributed to Omar Khayyam - appears on their website:
"Since the moon and planets appeared in the sky, no one has ever seen anything sweeter than the purest wine. I am full of amazement for the wine sellers, that those who can never buy better than what is sold "
3rd August. As of this morning, the wearing of masks (or "face-coverings" in BBC-speak) is now obligatory in many cities and towns in France, including Biarritz and Bayonne (more here). Tourists would be well-advised to ensure that they come prepared.
Today's special offer! If you're confined, in 'lock down' or simply stuck at home - why not relax with a coffee and take an early morning (6am) train ride in the cab of a regional train (ie not a TGV) from Bayonne to Tarbes and enjoy the scenery (the Pyrenees are on the right). You'll see how the house styles evolve as the train passes from the Pays Basque and heads into the Béarn:
2nd August. We were tempted to go to Biarritz for a coffee at the Bleu Café this morning - but we finally thought better of it. With it being the first weekend in August, Biarritz would be crowded with people and parking spaces would be like hen's teeth - so instead, we drove to Lac Marion for a walk with the pooch.
