30th June. We were out this evening at Saint-Jean-de-Luz to celebrate the passing of a major marital milestone - and we'd booked a table outside at Zoko Moko - a chic restaurant discreetly tucked away in a quiet street away from the hullabaloo of the nearby Place Louis XIV.. Zoko Moko is not somewhere to go to if your fancy is for a large steak that overhangs the plate with a mountain of pommes frites balanced precariously all around.. (although there is a time and a place for that!). No, the cuisine is of a refinement rarely seen. To single one dish out - we had lotte (monk fish) at one stage - it had been roasted crisp on one side and yet the inside was perfection.
 |
| Terraced vines at the Domaine Mourguy, Ispoure |
I must mention the red Irouléguy that I had - it was a name new to me - Domaine Mourguy - from Ispoure (outside Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port). This was liquid velvet on the tongue. I don't think it will be too long before we visit the farm. It left our usual Gorri d'Ansa Irouléguy in the shade. Domaine Mourguy is run by the brother and sister duo Pierre and Florence Mourguy at Ispoure.. congratulations to them! More on wines from the South West here (the name of Alain Brumont is one to remember for Madiran)
28th June. The village of Biriatou is often neglected by visitors to the Pays Basque - and even by some of those who have lived in the area all their lives. It's said that if you find yourself in Biriatou, you either live there - or you're lost. It sits high up on the bluffs overlooking the Bidassoa river that separates France from Spain - and while the village could be described as a ribbon development along the river for some 4km, its actual centre is the Pays Basque in microcosm.
In close proximity - all within a few yards - are all the elements necessary for a Basque village - a church (Saint-Martin), a Town Hall, a restaurant (Auberge Hiribarren*) and a fronton (for Pelote). It's a charming village with much to commend it.
* I'm pleased to be able to announce that the Auberge Hiribarren has re-opened under new management - and from all accounts it's better than ever (reviews here). Its central location couldn't be bettered and the views across the Bidassoa into Spain are exceptional.
26th June.. We were invited for lunch yesterday by our neighbours in Bayonne - but it wasn't here, it was to be at their other house in the country set high up in the hills, through the Pas du Roland, outside Itxassou, and then up and up on a winding single track lane (complete with hairpin bends). It finished here at their stunning Basque farmhouse - with views - as estate agents are wont to say - to die for. The house was in an idyllic position high up on a valley side with a 180° view of a slice of forested Basque mountainside - with one only other farm visible high in the distance at the end of the valley.
There were eight of us for lunch and we were sat outside in a small stone barn that had two walls removed so we had experience of eating al fresco - plus shelter if it rained.. They were such generous hosts - the bateau was well and truly pushed out.. I think we left at 5.30pm replete, with every nook and cranny filled, riding very low in the water with our thirsts totally assuaged - and still not hungry 18 hours later!
YES!
On Tuesday, R, a friend (a former Coldstreamer) from the Gers (just over 2 hours inland from here) came over with his two dogs. We'd met by chance at a small ceremony at the Cimetière des Anglais (more here) in 2019 and he and his wife had joined us for our annual Comet Line commemorative weekend later in the year. The small cemetery marked one of the two sites where an unnecessary night encounter had taken place (Napoleon having already abdicated) on 14th April 1814 between General Thouvenot's garrison of Bayonne and the Allied forces under the command of Lieutenant General John Hope, and in particular, the 1st Battalion, Coldstream Guards and 1st Battalion, 3rd Foot Guards. This night battle saw the kind of close quarter hand-to-hand fighting of the kind that doesn't bear thinking about. More here from the association "Bayonne 1814".
Maintenance of these two British military cemeteries (the oldest known to be in existence) is surprisingly provided by support from Regimental funds. I would have thought that the Commonwealth War Graves Commission (CWGC) should have been charged with that small task - but sadly its remit is confined to those "men and women of the Commonwealth forces who died in the First and Second World Wars."
Rupert Brooke's poem - "The Soldier" - could have been written with these two small cemeteries in mind.
R and I had a good day out - after walking the dogs we went to the headland by the lighthouse at Biarritz and had a picnic lunch in some marginal shade under a hot sun! One glass of rosé each was all we could manage in the heat. Afterwards, we drove to the 2 cemetery sites to check on their condition. This is prime growing season for weeds - what with hot sun and rain showers.
19th June. Politicians love to pretend that someone or something really belongs to us if they tag it the Peoples' whatever. Curiously, this affectation started in the 1930s when Hitler caused the VW Beetle (or Bug in the US) to come into being via a colossal scam that rivalled one of Victor Lustig's.. (aka the man who sold the Eiffel Tower - twice!). The German public were exhorted to make monthly payments towards a new Beetle - which many did - but none were ever delivered to the public before WWII came along. Anyway, be that as it may, Volkswagen = People's Car.
Then there's the People's Republic of China. Not my flavour of the month right now. Wouldn't Republic of China been sufficient?
Princess Diana morphed swiftly into the People's Princess after her death in 1997 following a typically gushing tribute by Tony Blair, the then PM.
Instead of asking for a second Brexit Referendum in an attempt to reverse the Parliamentary logjam caused by the outcome of the first one, those asking for a second vote demanded a People's Vote. It implies that the "man in the street" could make a more enlightened decision than those paid to do so at Westminster - plus a People's Vote no longer sounds like a second referendum (if you are hard of thinking).
The latest example of this outbreak of cosiness comes from who else but the BBC with its podcast series entitled "Spitfire: The People's Plane". I wouldn't advise anyone with an interest in aviation to listen to this as it's tosh of the first water. Somehow the BBC has achieved the impossible - it's managed to turn the story of an inspirational aeroplane from solid gold into the purest of dross. The Spitfire made it into RAF service by the skin of its teeth (it had its detractors) - and then once in service, it outshone the more workmanlike Hurricane by its sheer presence and charisma.
In this podcast, the Spitfire pilots take a back seat to typists and the like as Tuppence Middleton (her name tells you everything about her you need to know!) explains repeatedly that it was the "best fighter in the world". At various points in WWII, it may have been - but there were several contenders for that title - chief of which was the R-R Merlin-powered P-51D Mustang. This aircraft was undoubtedly in a class of its own. The rate of technological advance - especially in aircraft performance - was staggering in WWII and it should be remembered that the Spitfire first flew in March 1936 whereas the P-51D arrived in theatre some 8 years later in Spring 1944.
If you know of any more People's Whatevers - please let me know.
Back to the Pays Basque! (who said "At last.."?)
17th June. Tomorrow, I'm off to a ceremony commemorating the 80th anniversary of General de Gaulle's broadcast to France on 18th June 1940.
There's a new word that's come into common currency in the UK - particularly on BBC radio (home of political correctness) - and that's "nuanced". It seems that everything now is nuanced.. as it implies that their reporters have considered all the various shades of grey between the - gasp - black and white extremes. If only..
Iconic has had its time in the sun.. Surely the time has come for it finally to be put to sleep? (along with eponymous)
15th June. Yesterday we were out reasonably early to go down to the
Grande Plage at Biarritz to have a ringside seat in front of the
ocean. It seemed a long time since we'd been to the
Bleu Café
there - and thinking about it, we worked out it must have been about 8-9
months ago. The usual waiter was there and he recognised us even with our
masks on..
Afterwards, we decided to find a restaurant for lunch - somewhere with a
terrace preferably and I thought of the
Auberge d'Achtal
at
Arcangues. We sat out of the sun under the platanes and had a rare average lunch. I'd ordered pipérade with
jambon de Bayonne. Apart from being unrecognisable as a
pipérade (Madame's is the benchmark), it was so salty that I couldn't
eat it. Sadly, I can't see us returning there.
13th June. Louis de Funès
was one of France's funniest comedians.. Here he is trying to teach a few
gendarmes (one of whom is an officer) 'ow to spik Angliche:
10th June. I've mentioned the
Place des Vosges
here before as one of Paris's greatest hidden* attractions. If you haven't
visited it, if it's still on your "to do" list, then one look at this video
should be enough to convince you to go there. Before you do though, book a
table for lunch or dinner (19.90€ for 2 course lunch or 33€ for 3 course
dinner) at nearby
Bofinger, the oldest brasserie in Paris. You can pay more and you can pay less - but
I don't think it's possible to eat in such style at these prices anywhere else
in Paris. (Dress accordingly.) The beauty of it is that after your lunch or your dinner, you can enjoy a leisurely stroll with your companion around the incomparable surroundings of the Place des Vosges..
only a couple of minutes away. A more romantic setting doesn't exist (in my
view).
It's advisable to make a reservation and when booking a table, ask to be seated under the dome - it's by far the best place. If it's your first time there, ask to see the set menu and when the waiter returns to take your order, if you are choosing from the fixed price menu, make sure he knows. (there's more about Bofinger in the restaurant map in the left hand column) If you arrive late, without having reserved a table, don't be surprised if you find yourself seated upstairs.
* = hidden as in hidden in broad daylight.
7th June. I was down at the usual beach this morning with the hound and
the car park was thick with cars.. and people changing into wetsuits. The surf
community have their own social networks to alert each other of good surfing
conditions - so once the essential order of business had been accomplished, we
wandered down to the coastal path to see what was going on. I think there must
have been 60 surfers in the water and the waves were of a height that I hadn't
seen for months. Perhaps 3 metres high? Difficult to tell. There were groups
of people on the beach warming up with the kind of movements associated with
footballers..
.. and there were people arriving with surf boards on bicycles, motor scooters
and I even saw a Renault Clio (a small car) with a surf board inside!
And with all the windows closed too.
Very few makers of videos about Biarritz manage to escape the sea front - but
here's one who starts with a relaxed stroll about the
Place Clemenceau before moving down to the
Plage de la Côte des Basques and continuing on to the
Plage du Port Vieux - then on around the coast to the
Rocher de la Vierge. The walkway to the statue is usually closed off when there's major storm
brewing as the seas here can be quite spectacular. At 23:25, the golden
expanse of the Grande Plage is revealed.. with the supremely elegant
terracotta shape of the Hotel du Palais
in the hazy distance. Our favourite café (Bleu Café) shows up at 27:56 - where you have a grandstand view of the waves. The
viewpoint then walks around the seaward side of the Hotel du Palais to
arrive at the Plage du Miramar. After which follows the jewel in the
crown - a visit to the Hotel du Palais at 32:17.
As evening falls, the softly lit Hotel du Palais makes you believe
that anything is possible. The tour resumes at the foot of the
Rue Gambetta.. an area dotted with wine bars, cafés, restaurants,
individual shops and the ever-present real estate agents - plus the indoor
market - and
Bar Jean..
another of our favourites. It appears that this was filmed during the last
week of July as people - dressed in white and red and hot to trot - are
boarding buses to travel to nearby Bayonne to take part in the Fêtes de
Bayonne..
