272. Tiptoeing into Autumn

31st October. Even though our first visit to this region was back in 1991, and despite having lived here for 12 years, there are still many places we have yet to visit. The church of San Juan de Gaztelugatxe is one such place. Perched high up on a rock just off the coast to the east of Bilbao, it has a most spectacular location, similar to this one in Greece..

30th October. I was outside in the garden in the wee small hours a couple of days ago as the dog had been agitating to be let out.. when suddenly I heard the raucous sounds of a large formation of grues cendrées (common cranes) as they flew directly overhead on their southern migratory route to their wintering grounds. 

As it wasn't a moonlit night, I couldn't see them. I was surprised that they were flying at night. Half an hour later, I heard that same distinctive sound as another formation flew overhead. 

29th October. I discovered at the dentists this morning that my Carte Vitale no longer works. It was suggested that I went along to a Pharmacie and asked them to re-initialise it. That failed as well, so later on in the afternoon I went alone to the strikingly modern Social Security (CPAM) building (above) on the banks of the Adour. A few years ago, I would not have been able to do this but now I feel reasonably confident of my ability to: a. explain what I want in French and b. to understand the reply. (Not as easy as you might think!) More on the Carte Vitale here.

Paëlla at chez Pantxua

We went to Socoa yesterday to see what our longtime favourite restaurant was offering for New Year's Eve. We were surprised to learn that they had no specific plans made for a set fixed price menu on that night - it would only be à la carte - nor was anything planned to perk up the ambiance. As prices there have slowly been creeping up over the years we reluctantly decided that we'd have to give it a miss - but, before we left, we decided to treat ourselves to a paëlla (left), one of their specialities, and as it was warm, we ate outside in the sun. An hour and a half later, we exited stage left, riding very low in the water.. 

We then set off under blue skies and temperatures in the mid-20s to Ascain via a tangle of country lanes lined with autumnal trees to talk to the owners of another old favourite establishment who have posted a mouth-watering set menu for 31st December on their site. 

After which, we headed off to Ustaritz for a 'shoppex' - and then, as driving through the country lanes resplendent in golds, russets and burnt oranges was so pleasant, we decided to make an impromptu visit to the owners of the gîte at nearby Villefranque where we stayed for 5 months when we arrived here in September 2007 (sounds a long time ago now). 

First though, we picked up a gâteau basque à la crême (left) - and a bottle of honey-coloured Jurançon doux (right) for our former hosts. As we drove up to their farmhouse, it was strange to think that 12 years had somehow elapsed since we arrived here in our rented van without a home to either move into - or to return to. We sat outside in the late afternoon sun - surrounded by yapping dogs (Nutty was hooligan-in-chief) - talking to two of the nicest people you could ever wish to meet. They'd sold all their livestock - their cattle (Blonde d'Acquitaine), their pigs, their rabbits and their ducks - their chickens had fallen victim to foxes - and now they live contentedly in retirement in their valley surrounded by family.    

Lac Marion

27th October. We went for a walk around Lac Marion this afternoon - it's a real haven of greenery with a lake - far enough from the madding crowd - and, surprisingly, it's set in the suburbs of Biarritz. You'd never guess. Worth a visit if you don't know it.

South Africa's Springboks earned the right to a place in the 2019 Rugby World Cup Final by beating Wales this morning 19-16 in an attritional match that, let's be honest, was far from being easy on the eye. Wales will now take on New Zealand in a play-off for 3rd place on 1st November with the England - South Africa final taking place the following day. I'm taking nothing for granted - Eddie Jones' England side won through in their semi-final in grand style against the current world champions - but the real test - the only one that matters - comes next Saturday.

26th October. In watching the replay of the match, I noticed that Maro Itoje had been awarded Man of the Match.. While I'm a big fan of his, that award could have been given to at least half a dozen of the men in white, if not all of them. What a match, what a match though.. So - as a tribute to Maro Itoje's truly stand-out performance against top flight opposition, here are a few of his best moments from the match:
Down to the beach with the pooch for some fresh air this afternoon.. and with the temperature parked at 27°, it was no surprise to see the half term holiday crowds down there taking advantage of the last days of summer. What a great day in many respects!

England's riposte to the NZ Haka that cost them a £2,000 fine* (!) 

Wow! WOW! What an outstanding performance by a relentless England team who dominated New Zealand in every aspect of the game. Even before the whistle, they challenged New Zealand's legendary Haka (read here!) before following that up with an 80 minute monstering of the Kiwis. I think this will be remembered as England's greatest ever performance. It was worthy of a Final.

* Am I the only one who thinks a £2,000 is ludicrous? For what? 

Farrell facing the Haka

England deservedly went ahead at 1min 36secs via Manu Tuilagi's try (right). The final score 19-7 flattered the Kiwis - they were always on the back foot and their only try came from a gift-wrapped present from Jamie George (the result of an overthrow that was a few months early for Christmas!). England had two tries disallowed - the first was rightly chalked off for crossing but I thought the TMO decision to disallow the second 'try' by Youngs was debatable. The TMO claimed that the ball had gone forward in the preceding maul - I've seen the footage and I think it's open to interpretation. I think on another day that try might/would have stood. England also missed a drop goal and 1 or 2 penalties (can't remember now). Overall though, it was a magnificent performance by all involved.. and one that will be remembered - and replayed (in this house at least) - for many years to come. Impossible to pick a Man of the Match.
8am: Today's the day! The first of the 2019 Rugby World Cup semi-finals - between New Zealand and England - kicks off in about 2 hours time. I think the current England squad represents the best chance we've had of winning against the All Blacks for some years. It's difficult to see weaknesses - except perhaps for a predilection for coughing up penalties and Ben Youngs' liking for box kicking - and against a team like New Zealand, these two aspects could prove costly. If England can keep the penalty count low, I think they're in with a good chance of winning. They have a powerful tight five, a devastating back row (Tom Curry, Billy Vunipola and Sam Underhill), quick powerful backs and two of the game's best tactical kickers in George Ford and Owen Farrell. Add in the talent from the bench and if that's not a winning team, I don't know what is. 

The other semi-final sees a heavyweight contest between South Africa's Springboks and Wales. This is another difficult match to predict but as I don't have a dog in this fight, I think South Africa will just shade it. As Wales squeaked home by 1 point against a 14 man French side last weekend, I think the Boks will prove too strong for them. 

23rd October. Here's another piece that our choir will be reprising in 2 concerts planned for late Spring next year to mark our leader's final season before he retires - it's Vivaldi's Magnificat RV610 - and this is a fine interpretation of it by the English Chamber Orchestra and the John Alldis Choir conducted by Vittorio Negri in 1979:

I'm not particularly a fan of sacred music - I never listen to it at home - but it's difficult to describe the tingle that comes during a concert when 60+ choristers combine to sing in four part harmony some demanding passages of music after a year's-worth of practising. When it goes well, it's very rewarding and the sense of achievement far outweighs the pain of endless practices.  

21st October. How is it that we've ended up with politicians like these - oozing insincerity from every pore? We are forever being told today by those who wish us to remain in the EU that we (the poor dumb electorate) were lied to repeatedly by the Leave campaign from 2016 onwards  - but this video shows the reality. Watch this and weep for the country..

I imagine that all those connected with French rugby will still be seething this morning at Sébastien Vahaamahina who committed an inexcusable foul - a 'red-cardable' offence - 8 minutes into the second half of their quarter final match with Wales and got himself sent off. No excuses. France are now on their way home. Wales squeaked home 20-19 courtesy of a Ross Moriarty try in the 74th minute against a 14 man France.

In the other quarter final, the South Africa's Springboks overcame Japan's Brave Blossoms by 26-3. Japan made a lot of friends around the world with their all-action style, coached by former All Black Jamie Joseph.

19th October. What a day for England rugby..! It was Day One of the RWC Quarter Finals and England faced Australia. (Reader(s) in Australia look away now!) It was probably their best performance ever against the Wallabies as it finished up 40-16, with England scoring 4 tries to Australia's one. In the semi-final, England will meet New Zealand (who won their match with Ireland 46-14) in what should be a cracking match.
Tomorrow morning, Wales take on France and South Africa play Japan. It hurts me to say this but I think Wales are capable of reaching the Final. (Edited to add: On reflection, I think Wales have two chances of beating the Springboks: fat chance and no chance)

18th October. A big weekend of World Cup rugby coming up: first, England v Australia tomorrow morning - followed by New Zealand v Ireland.. then on Sunday, it's Wales v France and South Africa v Japan.

We went to the Town Hall earlier today to pick up my new carte d'identité - but after having signed yet more paperwork I was told it should be ready to collect in the week before Christmas! Who said this: “Though the mills of God grind slowly, yet they grind exceeding small; Though with patience He stands waiting, with exactness grinds He all.” Answer at the foot of this post.

17th October. Good to see that Ye Olde Pounde Sterling is creeping back up again from almost parity with the euro to more welcome rates of exchange (at least for me!). When we lived in the UK, the exchange rate was of passing interest - a footnote to the day's news just ahead of the weather - but since moving here, given that most of our pensions are in £ sterling, it's become of prime importance to us.

16th October. I was in Oloron-Sainte-Marie last week for a 2 day symposium on Trans-Pyrenean evasion networks during WWII. On the return I visited the wartime detention camp at Gurs. While little evidence remained of this shameful and tragic episode perpetrated by the Vichy government, it didn't need much imagination to realise the picture the horrors of life there for those judged to be "undesirables".

We were in Saint-Jean-de-Luz this morning for some shopping and there were quite a few people swimming - but what a pleasure to not have to circle around like a vulture looking for a parking space..!

Nutty, our larger-than-life cocker spaniel, is developing new habits. In addition to his obsession with lizards in our garden, he now checks under every car in the avenue as he trots by - in case there's a cat there. Neither of us have ever encouraged him to chase cats but he hasn't needed any prompting in that direction. What's next I wonder?! 

Here's the Tour de France route for 2020 - great graphics by the way - not much planned for the Pyrenees:

8th October. It was raining in Bayonne this evening when we went out to watch Woody Allen's "A Rainy Day in New York". It's billed as a romantic comedy but in my opinion, it's 99% free of both romance and comedy. In the interest of fairness, I should add that a chap a few seats away from me was laughing out loud in the exaggerated manner of a theatre audience in London's West End (ie, to encourage the cast) while my facial muscles remained unloved. It's probably the least engaging film Woody Allen has ever directed and I honestly felt that I could have got up and gone home at any moment during the screening and I'd have been in no danger of missing anything.

Top tip: still tempted to go and watch it? Resist the impulse at all costs. Tidy your sock drawer instead. Sweep out the garage. Put your CDs in order. Throw out all the books that you'll never read again. I should add I've been a longtime Woody Allen fan but this film is no more than a potboiler containing much recycled material. Apart from some good old American standards on the soundtrack, this gets my 37 carat dross alert!) 

I've got a better idea - draw the curtains / drapes / close the shutters / lower the blinds / whatever works wherever you are - light the fire - then pour a couple of Glenmorangies - one for your squeeze and one for yourself - and play this.

This is a piece we started learning last night for our choir leader's final season - Puccini's Requiem:

5th October. England had a bruising encounter with Argentina earlier today in the Japan RWC - and came away with a 39-10 win against a 14 man Argentine side after Tomás Lavanini had been red-carded for a high tackle on Owen Farrell in the 17th minute.

One to watch in next Saturday's Crunch match with France - scrum-half Baptiste Serin.. he's a quick-witted player with lots of tricks up his sleeve. I'm sure Messrs Underhill and Curry will keep a close eye on him.

4th October. I've been sparing you from having to read any more of the endless poisonous discussions involving Brexit - as they could, for the most part, be summed up by this quotation from "Macbeth":

it is a tale
Told by an idiot, full of sound and fury,
Signifying nothing.

.. and there's no shortage of idiots! However, I came across this extract earlier from a very worthwhile article by Ben Knight, who worked as a civil servant at the Department for Exiting the European Union between 2017 and 2019. These two paragraphs neatly sums up my reasons for voting Leave. In my view, Brexit is not about immigration, the proposed EU army, the economy, the Euro or any of it - these elements all come under the heading of detail. The fundamental issue at stake is that the majority of the electorate wish to restore parliamentary sovereignty to the UK - because from that, everything else flows - and it's clearly stated below:

"Brexit means the end of the jurisdiction of the European Court of Justice and of EU law, returning sovereignty to Britain. It is a fundamental principle of democracy that rulers should be chosen by the ruled; but no voter elects the Presidents of the European Parliament, Commission or Council, nor any one of the European Union’s 20 Vice Presidents. The only elected organ of the Union, the Parliament, has no powers to initiate legislation and only limited powers to scrutinise the Commission".

"The extension of Qualified Majority Voting means that Britain’s voice can be routinely overruled, and that the British people can be subject to laws for which not a single British individual has voted. This is plainly an aberration and an assault upon the core tenets of basic political rights. No: the only legitimate form of governance is one in which those with the power to make laws are directly accountable to every individual to whom those laws apply. The restoration of full parliamentary sovereignty in the United Kingdom will mean that our 650 MPs, each of whom we directly elect, are solely responsible for deciding the laws of the land".

His words deserve to be carved in stone. Given the above, I'm at a total loss to understand how and why anyone could vote Remain. I know full well that many of the current crop of numpties and windbags-in-aspic we have using up valuable oxygen in the House of Commons are beyond redemption but I think the UK electorate will make their feelings known loud and clear at the upcoming General Election on Thursday, 12th December. I hope that those of them who have spent the last 2-3 years throwing up all kinds of procedural devices to block Brexit will soon be spending far more time with their families or shouting at the traffic from the nearest bus shelter.  

There's a grassed area (wouldn't call it a lawn) in front of the Palais de Justice (Law Courts) not far from here. There are two great horse chestnut trees on it and beneath them is a carpet of leaves the colour of burnt copper and enough conkers to supply the needs of at least a hundred schoolboys. Sadly, conkers can't be eaten.

There are some oddly-named houses on my dog-walking route as well - one in particular always has me wondering why would someone name their house "Malgré tout"? According to Google, this has a variety of meanings in French including: 'nevertheless', 'nonetheless', 'even so', 'notwithstanding', 'all the same', and 'despite everything'. I remembered from my schoolboy French that malgré tout means 'despite all' and it's the only one that makes any kind of sense to me - but even then, it's an odd name for a house. There's another house that's simply called 'Christmas'.

House names in the UK tending to be more descriptive (see here) although 'Dunroamin' and the pessimistic 'Journey's End' were once fashionable.

People sometimes have asked me if I miss certain things or tastes from England - and I always have told them that there was only one that sprang readily to mind - and that was Stone's Ginger Wine (essential for making a Whisky Mac). I wrote about it here back in 2012.

In the lead-up to the recent Comet Line weekend in the Pays Basque, an English friend who was planning to attend kindly asked me in advance if there was anything he could bring me. Well, what else could I say! I hoped he might be able to slip a bottle into his suitcase.. but when he arrived, I was bowled over to find that he'd brought me a box of six! What a star!

Then, a few months ago, we were invited round to a neighbours for drinks and I was asked the same question. I suddenly remembered one day that a favourite breakfast used to consist of cereal plus a few (canned) grapefruit segments plus cold milk.. Whenever I remembered to, I'd look in any supermarket I was in to see if I could find them anywhere before finally realising that canned grapefruit segments simply don't exist in France. So that was my answer to the question.

Yesterday, we invited them here for supper as they'd just returned from a month away in the north of France and the UK (and you can guess what's coming next!). They passed me a heavy carrier bag containing several big cans of you-know-what..

So now, all my needs have been met for the forseeable future! (I must have perfected my whining technique!)

3rd October. Some more from the "I don't believe it" Dept.. I was returning from taking the pooch for a run through the calm of the beautiful woods at nearby Pignada this morning when two things caught my eye.

Pignada

The first was a council truck with a high lift platform on the back and they were busy attaching the Christmas decorations - yes, the Christmas decorations! - high up on a lamp-post. This must be the earliest in Europe - but feel free to tell me if it's already happened to a lamp-post near you.

The second was a "For Sale" sign on a bakery that we've been using ever since we've been here. All I can say is that the owner must have a non-business reason for selling up, unconnected with his products - because while they were uniformly excellent, his crusty baguettes 'Tradition' were the best in the area. Generally speaking, the one thing that bakers in France are rarely short of is customers. The buying of fresh bread on a daily basis is ingrained in French life. Sorry to see him go.

2nd October. As the 'pneumatic road drill' treatment on my knee (as described in earlier posts) didn't appear to bring any lasting benefit, it's back to the tried and tested injection of a silicon-based gloop (technical term m'lud) into it. It's a two-part process: first, the doctor had to manoeuvre the needle alone into the heart of my knee (a wince-making exercise if truth be told - my stiff upper lip has never been stiffer!) - then he attached the cylinder containing the product to the needle - all the time while discussing France's win over the US in the Rugby World Cup in Japan; the  state of play of the Brexit negotiations and then England's chances of progressing to the RWC Final.. He seemed to think we (England) stood a good chance. Personally, I think he was trying to take my mind off what he was doing! 

1st October. Nutty's fascination with the lizards in our garden has morphed into a full-blown obsession! He now spends his time by the garden door in the kitchen itching to be let out - and as soon as he's out, he darts around to his favoured viewing place in front of the border where the lizards are. He stands there absolutely motionless, staring intently for any sign of movement, poised and desperate to catch one. I think the lizards are safe though!

Answer: It was Henry Wadsworth Longfellow..

248. The pup!

30th October. The bay of Saint-Jean-de-Luz has never looked as beautiful as it does in this short video. It's not hard to imagine why we still pinch ourselves each time we waddle from the car to the sea front and let our eyes rest on this ravishingly beautiful bay. After a seafoody lunch at our old favourite ("Chez Pantxua"), we often take a walk around the small harbour at Socoa and on out to the end of the protective sea wall that saves Saint-Jean-de-Luz from the worst poundings of winter storms. Hard to believe when looking at these tranquil views that they exist - but they do. (take a look here. To give an idea of scale, there's a standard sized doorway in the small building at the end of the sea wall .. it appears at 0:18)

25th October. Readers with long memories may recall that in the intervals that remain unused between dog walking, lawn mowing, vacuuming, etc etc (hope I'm not sounding hard done by!), that I'm trying to learn the 5 string banjo. This cartoon of Gary Larson caught my eye:

The choir I sing with is going to be kept busy during the winter months learning this sublime piece (Cantique de Jean Racine, Op 11) by Gabriel Fauré, written when he was just 19 years old. I think it approaches perfection and I'm looking forward to the next few months.
 

Is it me? Over the past year or so, I've noticed that a couple of words started to appear constantly in general written usage and now it's hardly possible to read a newspaper (such as "TimeOut") or an article on the internet without running into them - and I haven't a clue what they mean.  I refer of course to "meme" and "trope". Am I the only one who had to look up the meaning in the dictionary? I won't bore you with the details.

A few years ago, "avatar", "iconic" and "eponymous" were used to death. And then there's "narrative". When I was at school, a narrative was an account of something that had happened. It's now been adopted full-time by the BBC chatterati and, well, I'll leave it there.  

24th October. Here's a tale of real life in France for you. On Saturday evening about 7.45pm, Madame went into the kitchen to prepare dinner and turned on one of the gas rings on the hob. In doing so, the piezoelectric igniter stuck and kept firing about once every 2 seconds. I tried some 'percussion adjustment' to no avail so I thought I'd switch off all the electrics via the master on/off switch to see if that would reset the hob. When I tried to switch the master power switch back on, the big press button was stuck in the 'Off' position and wouldn't budge. After we'd lit half a dozen candles, Madame remembered that there's an emergency phone number printed on the EDF bill - and so she made the call. To my astonishment, she was told that an emergency electrician would be at our house within the hour. 

Fifteen minutes later (!), there was a knock at the front door. The EDF man came in, took one look at our switchboard, tried to turn the power back on - couldn't - so he fitted a new master on/off unit and 15 minutes later he was all done. He told us that the intermittent switch action blockage was a known fault with that particular model of switch unit. For a fast, efficient service I don't see how this could have been bettered, especially on a Saturday night. What's more, it was free.. No call out charge, no charge for a new box, nothing. As he was a nice friendly guy, and he'd done a good job, and it was a Saturday night, I gave him a bottle of wine to enjoy when he was off duty.  

23rd October. Over the mountains into Spain this afternoon for some shopping.. the hills were ablaze in their autumnal colours - the fern-covered slopes are now a burnt caramel, and due to the altitude, autumn is more advanced up in the hills than down here at sea level with tree foliage dazzling in coppery hues before the onset of winter. The sharply sloped hills looked spectacular this afternoon under a burning blue sky. I made a mental note to visit the valley of les Aldudes (below) in the very near future - with my camera!

21st October. "Young Frankenstein" (1974) was always a favourite Mel Brooks film of mine - lots of old jokes get dusted off in this great parody of Ye Olde Hollywoode Spinechillers - with an excellent cast: Gene Wilder, Peter Boyle, Marty Feldman & Madeline Kahn. Sadly, all four of them are no longer with us.

I had a pleasant surprise earlier when the post came - I received a welcome cheque from HM Revenue & Customs for several hundred of Her Majesty's Olde English pounds (and how often do you write that?!) To find out more, read this. To apply for this largesse, start here.

I've forgotten to mention a project that is affecting many of us in and around Bayonne - the start of the public works necessary to create the new Tram'bus service. This 130m euro project will connect Tarnos (north of the Adour) with Bayonne, Anglet and Biarritz. Tarnos is something of a dormitory town for many who work in Bayonne, Anglet or Biarritz. (Description of the routes here)

Those of us with long memories may remember the trolley buses of the 1950s - with their tangled networks of overhead wires. The vehicles of this Tram'bus service will be battery powered - with charging points at each end of the line - no overhead wires required - thus minimising the infrastructure requirement. 

Land is being developed (code for houses being flattened) in many places on the Côte Basque to make way for multi-occupancy apartment blocks, thus increasing the traffic density. The idea behind this tram'bus initiative is that it should ease some of the congestion on the roads that we see at peak times. This project coincides with another work in progress - the renovation of the Pont Saint-Esprit that spans the Adour.  There is a similar tidal flow of traffic between the main coastal towns Biarritz, Anglet & Bayonne) and the inland villages. A tram'bus park and ride scheme would do much to ease the traffic congestion at peak hours.  

Fronton, Ascain

One of the aspects I enjoy very much about living in this region is the proximity of the hills. We don't have to drive very far before we find ourselves on single track roads that wind up and up into the high country that few tourists get to see. I once read that 95% of the tourists to the region don't venture more than 10km inland. We were no different when we first came down here in the early 90s. We were seduced by the charm of the white painted Basque villages, each set around its church and the fronton (right). It wasn't long though before we found ourselves exploring deeper into the surrounding hills and valleys - and it was here that we found the real Basque country - which is very different to the coastal strip with all its hustle and bustle. In attempting to discover the routes used by wartime evaders fleeing occupied France during WWII, I've become familiar with some of the terrain shown in this video.. and have the scars to prove it!

20th October. Well, I've gone and done it.! I've just launched into the French postal system another large wodge of documentation (proformas, original documents, sworn translations of documents and photographs) in further support of my request for French nationality. (I needed to add some documents to the previous collection I sent the authorities at the end of August) However, before you think that the old boy has lost the plot, I should say that I'm only doing it as a way of ensuring I can remain here in the event that the ongoing negotiations with the European Union turn pear-shaped - or more pear-shaped than they already are.

I use the word 'negotiations' but, in my view, an unsubstantiated demand for an unspecified number of billions (believed to be in the region of 60-100bn euros) just to enable the negotiations to proceed to the trade talks - with no guarantee of a successful outcome - appears to me to have originated in dreamland. Personally, I think the UK team should politely decline this generous offer and walk away from the table, spending the money instead on the infrastructure changes required for the UK to conduct global trade under WTO terms.

I voted Leave in the EU referendum (despite being in receipt of pensions paid in £ sterling and hence at the mercy of the exchange rate) out of my concern that the UK had allowed itself to become enmeshed in an undemocratic political construct that has, as its aim, 'ever-closer union'. This non-specific phrase means everything and nothing. It permits present and future EU politicians enormous freedom of action and if our EU membership continued, we would be committed to following their policies. I say 'following' because even though we are a permanent member of the UN Security Council, a nuclear power, a pillar of NATO, a member of the G7 (or is it the G8 now?) and one of the few net contributors to the EU budget, we have little (as in zero) influence on the direction that the EU is heading. It's a Franco-German stitch-up.

For example, one of the developments in Europe that greatly concerns me is that there is now a concerted effort to form a European Army. How could any self-respecting UK government allow its forces to be put in harm's way at the behest of unelected EU civilians? It's also clear that the long term aim of the EU nomenklatura is to turn the EU into the United States of Europe. This lofty ambition conveniently ignores the fact that the United States of America was, and still is, founded on democratic principles - and that the separation of powers is fundamental to the functioning of the Executive, the Legislature and the Judiciary. The EU is continuing down a path for which it has no mandate - which is unsurprising because legislation originates in the faceless unelected ranks of the EU Commission where the politically motivated few are changing our lives by stealth and by underhand means.     

Back to my application for French nationality - nowadays, the requirement for a language test has been waived for applicants of my advanced years (think the waiver kicks in at the age of 60) so that's one hurdle I don't need to cross. All I have to do now is to hurry up and wait.

I'll continue to hold UK nationality but if my request for French nationality is granted, I'll be able to vote here and it may serve to help me remain here in the aftermath of the Brexit negotiations. (maybe!)

18th October. I've been listening to this Basque choir - and there's something in the distinctive timbre of their voices that puts me in mind of a Welsh male voice choir:

Years ago, I discovered the books of Garrison Keillor, an American author and humourist, who grew up in Minnesota. He had a regular slot on American national public radio for many years where he read the "News from Lake Wobegon" - a fictional lakeside community in rural Minnesota peopled with characters that quickly established themselves.. His gentle humour is very listenable to - and as each of his characters and locations take shape in your imagination, it becomes harder and harder to believe that they're all fictional. Take a load off, sit back and enjoy Lake Wobegon - this one's one of my favourites:

  

In doing a small DIY job yesterday, I was reminded forcibly of the immutable Laws of Home DIY. I thought I'd update the list and bring them all together:

1. There’s no such thing as a simple job.

2. If it isn’t broken, fix it until it is.

3. If the screw isn’t going in, use a bigger hammer.

4. The drill bit you want is the one that’s missing from the box.

5. Never be tempted to change the drill bit in your electric drill with the power on. (I'll tell you the story one day!)

6. Measure twice. Cut once. (This rule can be applied to many areas in Life)

7. The best tool is a mug of coffee. Look at the job often - thinking time is never wasted.

Three from Lesley:
8. Anything thrown away will be required within the week. (So true!)

9. If you drop an Allen key, nut, bolt or screw it will always end up in the most inaccessible place.

10. As soon as you get your hands greasy you will need to scratch your nose or use the lavatory.

11. If you are in desperate need of one item to finish a job, the shops will be closed.

12. When the shop is finally open, the one item you want comes in a pack of six.

13. If it's your lucky day, and the shop sells the item you need in a single pack, they will have it in two sizes: too large and too small.

14. You've been saving something for 20 years knowing that one day you'll need it. When that day finally arrives, you can't remember where you left it. (happened to me yesterday!)

15. Never start a job on a Sunday afternoon.

16. You'll never find the thing you need until the day you don't need it.

17. Someone will have used the last bandage/band aid the day before you do involuntary finger surgery.

18. The only known supplier of the part you need closed down last weekend.

19. The most useless tool in your tool box is the wrong size Allen Key!

20. Superglue is a must for many DIY tasks - it is guaranteed to rapidly and permanently stick objects to things other than that intended.

21. Despite tidying up after a job and putting everything back in place on the right hook, in the right box, on the right shelf - things disappear.

22. If you have to remove twelve rusty nuts/screws/nails that have been untouched since the Spanish Civil War, eleven of them will unscrew/come out easily.

23. You have a couple of partitioned boxes neatly filled with every type and size of nail, screw and bolt known to mankind - except for the one you want.

24. You discover that the new lamp that you bought just before closing time on Saturday afternoon doesn't come with a light bulb (and this fact isn't mentioned on the box it came in). You then discover that it will only accept a new type of bulb - and none of your spares will fit.
25. Screwing up today's "small job" turns it into tomorrow's "big job". (Hands up all those who haven't done that!)

We have a table on the terrace that stays outside all the year around. In winter, it's covered up to keep the rains off it. The top is made up of countless small tiles, all held in place by exterior grade mortar (right word?). We noticed that in one area the mortar had disappeared and a few tiles were loose. I used a powerful adhesive to glue the loose tiles back in place and then I set off to the big DIY shop a few minutes away to find a small pack of exterior grade grouting/mortar (you can hear what's coming can't you!). Imagine my surprise when after staring desperately at the shelves full of products that solved problems similar to, but not quite the same as, mine - the only one in stock that ticked all the boxes was of course big enough to grout half of Trafalgar Square! There was nothing for it but to buy the thing..

It was a spin-off of Portland cement and it absorbed a surprisingly large quantity of water in a container before it achieved the right consistency. I then spread it over the problem tiles, smoothed it into place with one of Madame's rubber kitchen spatulas (she was out - shhh!). I washed it thoroughly afterwards and somehow forgot to mention it to her when she came home.. One of my better DIY jobs. 

15th October. Down to the green behind the beach (Plage des Cavaliers, Anglet) this morning with the pup - and as there were no other dogs in sight, I decided the time was ripe to unclip him from his lead for the first time. Always a nerve-racking moment but I needn't have worried - he'd wander off a little to investigate a rogue leaf or similar before racing back to me. There was the continuous roar of a big sea running so we walked up to the coastal path to take a look. 

It all appeared to be moving in slow motion - blue rollers would rise up and up and just as they broke, the strong southerly wind would tear the crests off them which spun away in a dazzle of silver'd spray. It was what used to be known as a Kodak moment! Forecast is for 29° today so we're meeting a friend for lunch out at Arcangues.   

Here's an interesting video that shows our part of the world as it used to be:

NB. The rowing club shows up at 1:35. The former indoor market appears at 7:54. This was an outstanding example of the 'brutalist' school (I made that name up) of French architecture. They seem incapable of occupying the middle ground in the way that British architects (or perhaps their patrons) are prone to do. The Sainsbury Wing (right) of the National Gallery, London is a bland pastiche of classical styles (beloved of Prince Charles!) designed to blend in.. anonymously. 

Here, in France, patrons seem willing to take risks with new buildings.. and the results can shock. The former indoor market at Bayonne fell into that category in my uneducated view. Equally however, they are capable of rising to the challenge and producing something sublime - such as the Louvre Pyramid (above).   

La Concha, San Sebastian

13th October. Madame had some positive health news this morning - so to give her a welcome change of scenery we decided to go to San Sebastian.. It was a balmy 28° and it seemed like all of Spain was out there, taking the air. Afterwards, I just had to google this to find out what was going on - and yes, yesterday - 12th October - was Spain's national holiday - Hispanic Day. It seems that many people had taken today off as well as the town's pavements (sidewalks) were thronged with people. I lost count of how many times passers-by stopped us to look at the pup - he really had the ladies of San Sebastian going! The beach was getting crowded too with sun worshippers while flotillas of stand-up paddlers were wobbling gingerly across the bay.

We talked ourselves into having a light lunch at Kata4 - a stylish oyster bar/restaurant around the corner from the Hotel Maria Cristina and ideally situated for people watching. We'd been here before and liked it very much. Our friendly multilingual waitress spoke Spanish, French and English.. and I suspect she had a few more up her sleeve. The menu changes often - have a look at the photos. I also put a couple of pins on the map in the left hand column for Kata4 and another favourite - a cider house/restaurant outside town called Petritegi (left).

12th October. I was out with the pup earlier and I took him to his usual watering hole - a tree-lined park just a few minutes away. Today, it was clear that Autumn was coming - the trees were showing a spread of colours centred around russet and, to punctuate the message, there was the occasional sound of acorns hitting the ground as they fell down from on high. I've set the kindling in our wood-burner in advance so that it's ready for that first evening when a fire is called for. We had a few trees taken down in the garden a couple of years ago and the logs have been stacked at the side of the house ever since to thoroughly dry them out before they get burnt. I think we're all set!

Yesterday saw us hit one of those once-in-a-lifetime anniversaries - it was 50 years ago to the day when I met my inamorata. Fifty years..? How could that be possible - but yet, it's true. For this date, we'd always talked about a trip to Paris and dinner at the legendary Tour d'Argent. This wonderfully situated restaurant has been on our 'to do' list for as long as I can remember - but the arrival of Nutty has meant that that particular ambition has had to be put on hold.

La Plancha

So, time for Plan B.. We decided to have lunch at the relaxed, unpretentious and friendly La Plancha, a seafood restaurant at Bidart. (to orientate yourself, look here) There's a terrace overlooking the beach and the sea and, for those cooler days, there are tables inside as well. If this restaurant was any nearer the sea, you'd have wet feet! After all the recent unsettled weather we enjoyed a perfect sunny cloudless day (with temps up in the mid twenties) sitting out on their terrace overlooking the almost deserted beach, although it did start to fill up later on. We started off with an Assiette Hispanique - which was a generous serving of thinly sliced jambon de Bayonne, chorizo, lomo and saucisson accompanied by some green chillies. This was followed by a rich, garlicky Zarzuela (a Catalan interpretation of Marseille's bouillabaisse that looked something like this). Suffice to say, it was just what we needed to celebrate the day. Here (below) is my photo from yesterday - apologies for the tilt! I can't find a menu online so step through these photos to get an idea of what else is on offer. 

View from 'La Plancha'

6th October. Nutty, our new cocker spaniel pup, is growing while-U-watch! Here he is in the garden earlier this afternoon pondering the meaning of life (or maybe not), and taking a well-earned break from something or other - excavating for Britain, eating shrubs, racing around like a mad thing, jumping down the steps three at a time.. He now weighs in at a tad under 10kgs.. (he was 6.2 when we got him) 

1st October. A couple of days ago, I took Madame to look at electric bikes and she took a couple out for a spin. Just as I was a few months ago, she was delighted with the experience - she particularly liked the Kalkhoff Voyager Mover B8 (a name that trips off the tongue!) for its sit-up-and-beg riding position. Once the dust has settled, we might well go for one of these.

This morning I took GodzillaPup™ down to the beach for a leg stretch - the weather was dismal - constant drizzle under low stratus that was almost down to the deck. Looking at the sea, it was still very busy with breakers of around 3m or so - but the whole scene looked like 50 Shades of Grey.. with just a hint of pale green in the waves as they broke. It wasn't a morning for walking and the pup was glad (as was I) when we turned around and headed back to the car.

We (I) came home to rabbit with prunes in a red wine sauce.. with a potato and celeriac mash. To help this go south, we opened a bottle of Saint-Pourçain red* (now stocked at our local Carrefour). I was riding very low in the water after this - but then Madame brought out some pears that had been braised in red wine. The challenge for me now is to stay awake for the rest of the afternoon!

*This is well worth searching out.   

246. Deep in deepest France

31st August. This morning, I finally set in motion the process to apply for dual nationality by posting a bulky envelope containing a great wodge of paperwork. Apart from a form I'd printed off the internet with the basic information, I had to include a copy of my passport, a certified translated copy of my criminal record (blank of course - need you ask!), certified translated copies of my birth certificate and my parents' birth certificates, a copy of our marriage certificate, my wife's birth certificate, a copy of her father's birth certificate - pause for breath - a statement from the bank here that we have a joint account, a statement from the tax authorities, plus a 55€ "timbre fiscal", a stamped addressed envelope address to us, and a registered letter. Phew...          

How does that expression go? "Times flies like an arrow - but fruit flies like a banana.." I realised this morning that it was 10 years ago today that we set off in our hired van from England for sunnier climes. We'd sold our house in England, and we didn't have a house to go to in France - all we had was an address for a gîte down in the Pays Basque where we'd be staying for an indefinite period. We'd well and truly burnt our boats. We thought we might have to spend up to a year there before we found a house to buy. It didn't quite work out like that! (see here)

And for anyone reading this who is contemplating moving across the Channel - the $64,000 question - "Do we have any regrets?". I'm afraid the answer is no, not one. Would we do it all again? Yes, in a heartbeat. Would I give any advice? Try and be honest (even ruthless) with yourself about your intentions and your likes and dislikes. Is it a short term move or is it for keeps? Having made your decision, I'd say plan your move, plan your move and plan your move. Try and identify the variables that will affect you. Try to think through in advance all the "what ifs"- and nail as many of them as possible while you're in England.  

The other significance of this date was, of course, the final act in the short and ultimately tragic life of Princess Diana. Twenty years ago, we'd been invited to France to take part in a friend's wedding anniversary celebrations over a long weekend near Bourges. We had to leave early by car on the Sunday morning to return to England. As we drove north, we started picking up the morning news faintly on the BBC long wave and, to our disbelief, we heard the shocking announcement of her untimely death a few hours earlier in nearby Paris. Like everybody else, we were absolutely stunned and we couldn't begin to imagine how on earth she had managed to come to grief in a chauffeur-driven limo in the centre of Paris. Needless to say, it's been the subject of endless speculation ever since.  

The only comment I'd make is that I thought she'd breathed some much-needed fresh air and normality into the stuffy Royals. At least, that's my perception. The truth is, none of us really know what went on in that marriage and that family. I have my own views. Suffice to say, I don't think Charles has ever realised what he lost by pursuing his own aims. Perhaps I shouldn't say this but he almost became likeable while he was married to Diana - some of her magic dust having rubbed off on him.  

28th August. The atmosphere cooked up something special up for us early this evening.. The skies darkened and then the first flickering flashes of sheet lightning started. Then the lightning became more or less continuous before it moved on to bigger things. Suddenly there was an intense electric blue and white flash - like a big city transformer exploding - as lightning struck somewhere close by. This was followed a second or two later by the mother of all explosions as a bass drum roll of thunder shook the house in a continuing rumble that sounded for all the world like a stick of bombs going off a few streets away. Unfortunately, the pup had chosen that moment to have a sniff around the garden - and I've not seen him move so fast before as he shot indoors!

24th August. Just noticed that the slideshow I had set up in the left hand column has disappeared. I'll have to see about reinstating it with another photo storage service.. I think Photobucket has changed its terms and conditions and now that it has captured billions of treasured images, it wants to charge...

22nd August. A loong time ago I lived on a Greek island and in the late afternoons/early evenings I used to work in a Greek-owned drinks store. When trade was slack, we'd close up and drive out to a shack where we'd make and then bottle our own ouzo. Later in the evening, we'd go to an open air bar out on a headland where inevitably - as night follows day - someone would start dancing the sirtaki.. It's surprisingly hard to learn the sequence of steps - after all, there are only so many things you can do with two arms, two legs, two knees and two feet. Or so you'd think! This little clip takes me back.. I was never this good:

   

I've just discovered that there was a Festival Biarritz Années Folles (Biarritz in the Roaring Twenties Festival) in June 2017. A few wannabe 'Boy' Capels on show here.. Plus I would have needed to brush up my dancing skills (such as they are) if we'd gone.. One of the problems with these events is that it can be guaranteed that the MC will pick up a microphone and insist on talking and talking ad infinitum. (surgical intervention being required). I have a notoriously short attention span for many of the activities portrayed here (apart from 21:36!). I think I would have glazed over before too long.. and been caught sneaking a peek at my watch!

19th August. Yesterday it was the turn of Barcelona to experience the horror of a terror attack. It seems that they're occurring with increased frequency these days. I believe our interests would be best served by not revealing any details at all about the measures that are being taken to nullify these attacks.

18th August. I omitted to mention the passing of Glen Campbell, who achieved instant global fame with his enigmatic song - "Wichita Lineman". On the face of it, it's pretty much a 'nothing' easy listening song but then the mental images accumulate - a nostalgic lineman up a telegraph pole out on the lonely prairie, with the wind in the wires, missing his girl - and combine with what sounds like morse code and voila.. it all comes together. I heard this song the other day for the first time in years and it has stood the test of time very well. Have a listen:

Another unforgettable retail experience to chalk up.. It was decided by Higher Authority that the toilet seat in the downstairs loo needed replacing. With the pup unable to be left on his own at the moment, I was dispatched out on a solo mission - to execute "Operation Toilet Seat"! The toilet in the downstairs porcelain reading room is, at a whopping 37 centimetres wide, of Godzilla-like proportions. I soon found myself staring at a bewildering array of seats at a local DIY megastore armed only with a tape measure. I finally homed in on a likely suspect, made the purchase and dashed for home.

When I unpacked the object, I checked to see where it had been made (knowing in advance what the answer would be). Yes, of course, it had been manufactured in the People's Republic of China (PRC). I think we're doomed. The writing's on the wall. How is it that we can't even produce flippin' toilet seats? Is there nothing the PRC can't make?

The grey-suited functionaries currently shining their backsides in Brussels should be asking themselves the question: how is it that a country on the other side of the world can manufacture a simple domestic product like a toilet seat, ship it to Europe and still sell it at a competitive price? Having established that our manufacturing costs are too high, the next question for the well-fed fonctionnaires should surely be - what are we going to do about it to make our industries more competitive? The answer is clear: we must reduce the punitive burden of the 'social charges' that European manufacturers are liable for.    

16th August. Here's a short video of the latest addition to the household.. (I made it just for the record - Martin Scorcese it's not!)

The Edinburgh Festival has occasionally seen new comic talent emerge. Judging by the 10 Best Jokes from this year's festival, I think we can safely say that established comedians need have no further worries about their job security in 2017. I can't believe that these dire offerings are the 10 Best. If I told one of these, I'd expect no more than a polite smile - at best.    

Nutty

12th August. After the passage of a long year since we lost our golden boy, the house once again is alive with the sound of the pitter-patter of paws! We drove up to a cocker spaniel breeder in Lot-et-Garonne on Thursday and - surprise, surprise - we came away with a 2½ month old pup. There were around 12 of them vying for our attention but he stood out from the rest - he picked himself - but if I'm honest, I could have grabbed the whole squirming mass of them! There wasn't a single one that we wouldn't have given a home to.

We decided we needed time to make our minds up so we drove to nearby Duras to talk it over, away from the distraction of a dozen playful pups - with the help of a glass of the local red. By some quirk of French law, dogs have to be registered with a name with the initial letter for the year in question. This year's letter is N. In the end, we chose this little feller, who will soon be answering to the name of Nutty.. (once he's learned it!)  He's settled in quickly without any dramas, and we're looking forward to the day when we can take him out - another couple of weeks yet.

Now

Then

11th August. One for the ladies.. Here's an interesting tale from the dusty margins of history.. and it's one that I'd not heard before.

I'd once read somewhere that Coco Chanel had opened her first shop at Biarritz (left) in or around 1915 - but I was unaware of the rest of the story. A hundred years on, the location remains largely unchanged.

It appears that she'd had an independently wealthy English lover, Captain Arthur Edward "Boy" Capel, and, in the time-honoured fashion, he had generously advanced her the start-up money she'd needed to open up her first shops (she surprised him later by paying it all back in full!).

"Boy" & Coco

He was described as "an intellectual, politician, author, a ship-owning tycoon, polo-player and the dashing lover and sponsor of the fashion designer Coco Chanel" - and he continued seeing Coco Chanel after his marriage.. so, in the language of the day, he'd be classed as a cad and a bounder. In those days, the only punishment possible for a transgression such as this would have been a sound horsewhipping!☺ Today, her former shop in the centre of Biarritz is home to the Bookstore and Maison Adam - both of which are worth visiting.

Cotignac

I was just re-reading the above description of 'Boy' Capel and it occurred to me that we don't make them like that any more. Is there anyone around in politics today who fits that description? I very much doubt it. Tragically, 'Boy' was to be killed in a road accident outside Cannes (in his Rolls-Royce) in 1919.

There's now a "Boy" Capel Challenge - a classic car rally that does a lap of the Côte d'Azur, starting from Cannes and visits Aix-en-Provence, Gorge du Verdon, St. Paul de Vence before returning to Cannes. Here are the participants as they rumble through Cotignac - a lovely Provençale village we visited a few years ago. Enjoy this stroll through Cotignac on what looks like a lazy out of season Sunday lunchtime - best in full screen:

On the face of it, the world has changed greatly - but if you read this account of the hedonism of the twenties, it will quickly become apparent that 'excess' wasn't a product of the modern age - it had all been done long before.

9th August. Here's an interesting and thought-provoking documentary that tries to define progress. Today, more than ever, we are being constantly presented with "improvements" to existing technologies and when we're unable to absorb any more changes, we get new technologies thrust at us. 

In my lifetime, we've gone from playing music on 78rpm records - to 45s - to 33s, then to reel-to-reel tape recorders to cassettes, to CDs - and then it went crazy... Now, we have music available on MP3 players, USB sticks, our mobile phones, the cloud (?) and so it goes. (I'm sure I've missed a few steps out at the end there!). It's the same with photography. Without going through the same process of listing the changes in cameras over the last 50 years - just ask yourself how many generations of obsolete cameras do you have tucked away gathering dust in drawers at home? (We must have at least 6 cameras of varying stages of obsolescence - no longer used.)

During the last decade of my working life, a common mantra was that we had to "embrace change". And since then, politicians have used the need for change in their campaign slogans - but without defining exactly what that change would consist of, and perhaps more importantly, who it would benefit (apart from getting them elected!). If, however, we're against change, we're seen as reactionary dinosaurs. Surely we must establish the benefit(s) of any change before adopting it lemming-like. Mobile phones are a good example. I have no need for a mobile phone. Let me repeat that: I have no need for a mobile phone. Zero. Nada. Zip. Niente. I've inherited one from Madame but it just sits on the hall table and there it stays. Sometimes I feel all changed out!

Coming back from the Auvergne last week, we pulled off the A89 to find somewhere for lunch and we stopped at Montignac in the Dordogne. It was a "tourist-rich" environment and clustered around the entrance to a riverside restaurant we were contemplating were a number of English girls - each of them armed with an iphone. Instead of looking at the menus posted outside, they were frantically calling up the restaurant's page on Trip Advisor to see what people thought of it - before suddenly deciding that a restaurant across the river had received better reviews - and they were off!

6th August. The parking gods smiled on us this morning in Biarritz.. Yes, an August Sunday and we found a place straight off. We had to arrive there at 10am though! The town was alive with rumbling Harleys, blatting their "potato-potato" sound, and innumerable bloated German 4x4s. In the middle of all this, and close to where we parked, was a superb 40 year old example of what is arguably automobile perfection – an early 70s Porsche 911 in ice green - similar to the one here but different colour. No frills, no fat – just a lithe, supple and timeless shape designed for one thing and one thing only. These cars have their detractors I know but, aah, that shape.. This is the car I always wanted - a Porsche 912. Designed as an entry level model, it had a 1600 flat four and it was later upgraded with an 86bhp 2 litre four. As I never wished to blat around at the speed of heat, it would have suited me fine. Join me in drooling over this one here! This model was briefly affordable until just a few years ago but values have skyrocketed (40,000€+) in recent years as baby boomers chase the car of their teenage dreams.

Hard at it at the Bleu Café on the Grande Plage this morning!

3rd August. Please don't forget to send me your tips for including on my interactive map of our favourite affordable restaurants in France where they still cook to the old standards. By that I mean restaurants where the dishes are prepared and cooked in the kitchen - with not a microwave in sight! See here for further details.

2nd August. Just as the Fêtes de Bayonne kicked off last week, we escaped up to Salers in the Auvergne. For many people, Salers is famous for one thing: its grass-fed beef. The Salers breed has to be hardy to survive the long winters up at altitude and their thick coats are a rich mahogany red. They all seemed to be fitted with bells around their necks and so we were serenaded every evening by what sounded like gusts of wind blowing through a wind chime factory - as here!

Here's the village of Salers.. Three thousand feet up, it's built of volcanic basalt, and it presents a solid yet unprepossessing face to the world with its dark stone edifices and heavy split stone roof tiles.

This dourness is reflected in the food - here there are no large white plates with slices of meat artfully arranged on top of a mini-tower of 3 carottes rondelles - with a 'signature' swirl of jus.. (spare me!)
 No, it's solid fare here and there are such local delights as 'pounti' (I never got around to trying it) and something called a 'liogue'. (a large diameter sausage served sliced - this I did try). Another evening, I tried pig's trotter (foot) with foie gras. I must admit I wasn't sure what to expect with this! It turned out to be something that was the size of a slightly flattened tennis ball that had been breaded and deep-fried. It contained nothing readily identifiable (rather like a haggis!) and it was rather bland in taste. The jury's still out on that one. (Perhaps it was a tennis ball! Aagghh!)

A speciality of the Auvergne that I've had before is chou farci - which translates as an unappetising-sounding 'stuffed cabbage' in Anglo-Saxon. It is anything but.. We had a healthy slice of this one lunchtime and it was delicious. (NB. Must use a savoy cabbage).

Another speciality of the region that we tasted was Gentiane Jaune. I think this falls straight into the "Acquired Taste" category. We've all done it - bought an exotic-looking bottle on an overseas trip, got home, tried it once, and then 10 years later you find it at the back of your drinks cupboard covered in dust with the screw-cap seemingly welded on. (Ask me how I know!)

La truffade

If I had to pick one dish that was omnipresent and exemplified all the local specialities, then I'd have to say it would be truffade.. perhaps the dish of the region. On one occasion, we had it twice in one day!

Here, the making of it is demonstrated by the presenter (below) who sounds as though his trousers are on fire (he comes in at 0:11). It is the ideal fuel if you anticipate digging a ditch sometime in the near future - but for bumbling around the lanes, visiting villages, it's probably a few calories too many! However, when it's accompanied by a glass of Saint-Pourçain rouge*, it all seems to make sense.. (More here) 
* We've had the white Saint-Pourçain several times but the red was new to both of us - and very nice it was too. We now have a ½ case on order.. (Since discovered that Carrefour stock it - and very drinkable it is too.)

Edited in 2023 to add: This has become close to being our 'go to' wine. Each time we taste it, one of us will invariably say - "This is far better than it should be..". Luckily Carrefour and Leclerc both stock it. 

Let's not forget that this region of France was heavily involved in the 100 Years War.. The 15th century Château d'Anjony is one of those medieval structures that simply takes your breath away.. 

Outside of the villages, the physical features of the landscape have been laid out on a grand scale:

As for the above video, I refuse to do anything (with my clothes on!) that requires me to cry out "Woo-hoo!"..

Meanwhile, I’m now smarting from a letter I opened at lunchtime. We’d been to Saint-Jean-de-Luz one evening about a month ago and we were chatting on the way home - in a 50kmh limit with a known radar camera.. As I went by the camera at 57kmh I thought “Oh noooooo!”.

Oh yes, the fine came today. For doing 7 kmh over the limit (ie, just over 4mph) I have to pay a 90€ fine. Grrr!