277. The first green shoots of Spring

31st March. Finally, some good news.. On 24th March, the UK government announced it would turn the ExCeL Centre in London's Docklands area into a temporary hospital to cope with patients affected by Covid-19 and work began almost immediately.

Due to open this week, NHS Nightingale Hospital London will have between 4,000 and 5,000 beds. Congratulations to all concerned.. This project reminded me of the miracles that were achieved in WWII by people working for a common cause. It's sad that an emergency such as Coronavirus was required to bring us together. Of course, there will be no shortage of critics who will perform all manner of mental contortions to avoid praising any of this government's actions.   

Story and pictures here and here.

30th March. Musicians from the Rotterdam Philharmonic Orchestra in isolation at their homes play Beethoven’s ‘Ode to Joy’ - coordinated by Skype: 

   

With so much bad news circulating, I thought I'd change the mood and show you a playlist of several short 30 second videos of Saint-Jean-de-Luz. This charming seaside resort and working fishing port was where we started looking for a property following our move to the Pays Basque in 2007. We'd first visited the resort in 1991 and we were smitten instantly (and we still are).

However, given the nature and layout of the town, it quickly became apparent that there was little hope that we'd be able to find what we were looking for in the town centre - and even if we had have done, it would have been outside our budget. Nevertheless, Saint-Jean-de-Luz remains a firm favourite with us and even now we count ourselves fortunate to be able to access it just a few minutes from home. These clips were filmed in April 2019.

29th March. There are so many funnies circulating now about Coronavirus (due to people having a lot of time on their hands). This is one that I particularly liked:

28th March. Stéphane Sénéchal, a professional opera singer, has been providing a free concert to his neighbours since Tuesday from the window of his apartment in Paris's 9th arrondissement. A gesture of comfort in this difficult period, especially for the elderly.

27th March. One very welcome side effect of the Coronavirus global pandemic is that drug addicts and users will have extreme difficulties in sourcing their supplies, given that many communities have been placed in lock down. Oh dear. How sad.

Back from an early morning shop at Grand Frais, Biarritz - whoever thought of the concept deserves a medal.. Much thought has clearly gone into the presentation of the produce - the shop is lit like a film set. I noticed this morning that, in addition to the spotlit displays, discreet clouds of water vapour were drifting over selected gleaming fruit and vegetables. This is nothing more than Food Porn! Everything is presented to maximum advantage and as I've said before, it really does make shopping pleasureable. The effect is more than skin deep though.. I watched the replenishment of the displays and it's clear that the produce is as fresh as can be. It all looks as though it was picked first thing this morning (although it might have been as long ago as yesterday afternoon!)

The shop opened at 9am (later than usual) and so we had to queue (yes, in France!☺) with a couple of metres spacing. Of course, that wasn't good enough for some shoppers with the queue-jumping gene who, ignoring the big queue for the main shop, joined a separate shorter queue for the shop's bakery and when the shutters were raised they somehow found themselves - by chance! - in the entrance to the main shop. There are always those who seek to gain advantage.. it's a trait of human nature that's to be found in every country - but here some have turned it into an art form. There was a time when behaviour like that would have had me mentally reaching for a baseball bat or a pump action shotgun (yes!) - but I've become more philosophical these days (I just give my knuckles a good clenching instead!). 

26th March. I was woken early this morning by a couple of paws on the bed and some heavy breathing.. I can take a hint.. I let Nutty out in the garden and true to form, he scurried around to check on his lizards.. After he'd had his first hunt of the day for them - with him all a-quiver - we went back to bed. With the present restrictions in place, there's practically zero traffic using the avenue and so I thought I'd open the bedroom windows to let some fresh air in.

Two minutes later, just as I was heading for oblivion, it sounded as though the Bayonne & District Chapter of the Vespa & Lambretta Club (right) was holding an Open Day outside.. so out of bed again to close the windows. Back to bed.. Two minutes later, it felt like a sack of potatoes had landed on my feet - and wasn't going to move. (guess who?!) After that, sleep was impossible.

My mind started wandering and I recalled a Parisian friend we had here some 10 years ago - a good friend and yet someone with the unintentional (I hope) arrogance of one who lives in a nation's capital. I was watching him tapping away at his Blackberry (left) and so I asked him what he used it for. He replied that it was useful for noting the dates and times of expositions in Paris.. but (and this is where his bluntness took me by surprise) he said that one wouldn't be much use to me as there were no exhibitions here.

He came out with another zinger during that same visit. He regarded himself as an "intellectual" (a compliment in France) and one day he was searching for a word to complete a comment he wanted to make on a cultural subject - and I supplied the right answer. His reply? "Yes, but that's outside your sphere isn't it..". I've always been too polite to make, or reply to, comments like these.

I could have said that going to exhibitions is a passive activity and that I prefer doing things - rather than simply looking - but I didn't.

So, in reply to your unasked question, this is what kept me awake this morning! Strange, the things we remember.           

25th March. As the weather warms up here and the lizards in the garden ease out of their hibernation, it's not gone unnoticed by Nutty, our cocker spaniel. He's on permanent lookout duty by the kitchen door with his view of the lizard border. He's become totally obsessed by them and as soon as I let him out, he darts straight there to stare intently at the tangled roots where they hide. They're quite safe though - their reactions are sharper than his.  

Here's a video about the coastal towns here - to watch in full screen.. The Bayonne segment starts at 0:50..
We have 5 more weeks of confinement to look forward to here - and so I've been tackling jobs I've been putting off for a lo-o-o-ng time. I've been meaning to do some much-needed blog maintenance - repairing broken links, replacing videos that no longer play and replacing photos that no longer display. I started this mammoth task a few months ago and I'd been making slow progress as it seemed never-ending. However, this confinement triggered a fresh burst of energy and I finished restoring all 277 posts just a few minutes ago. May I make a plea - if you find a video that doesn't work, or a broken link or a missing image - I'd be grateful if you could draw my attention to it. Many thanks! 

23rd March. The YouTube issue appears to have been resolved.

19th March. The conditions were just right on 15th February for the offshore reef between Saint-Jean-de-Luz and Hendaye to produce the celebrated "Belharra" wave. See what you think:

18th March. Come on, snap out of it! Being "confined to barracks" gives you the chance to watch escapist fantasies like this next video. For those with long memories, yes, it's a re-post from 7 years ago - but it's well worth it don't you think? If this doesn't ring your bell, float your boat or jangle your bangles, there's no hope for you! Best in full screen..

16th March. Some interesting statistics emerged from yesterday's vote in the local elections. Firstly, out of 32,138 registered voters (of which I was one), there were some 19,672 abstentions. I would imagine that the majority of those who stayed away did so due to fears about the Coronavirus. Secondly, when we arrived in Bayonne in 2007, its population was 44,498. In 2017, the population had risen by almost 20% to 51,228. 

The World Health Organisation has published a great deal of useful information regarding Coronavirus (COVID19). It's available in the following languages:  العربية, 中文, English, Français, Русский and Español.

15th March. We went for a walk this morning at the quaintly-named Milady beach at Ilbarritz, just to the south of Biarritz. We sat on a couple of rocks and watched the rise and fall of the ever-changing sea.. something we never tire of:

The answer to the world's insatiable appetite for energy lies there if only we knew how to exploit it. Looking at the turquoise green sea with its dazzlingly white breakers under a cloudless blue sky, it was hard to believe that all was not well with the world (that's Spain in the distance by the way).

There are a few short (about a minute each) videos here that show the coast at Biarritz. Well worth a look:

14th March. Earlier this evening, Edouard Philippe, the French Prime Minister, announced a package of measures designed to slow down the proliferation of the Coronavirus in France with the closure of restaurants, cafes, cinemas and nightclubs as well as other businesses deemed to be non-essential. It would not, Mr Philippe said, affect essential businesses such as food shops, chemists, banks, newsagents and petrol stations. Mr Philippe also asked people to reduce their travel, especially between towns.

"The best way to slow down the epidemic", he said, "is social distancing. I say this gravely - we must all together show greater discipline in the application of these measures."

However local elections due on Sunday would also still go ahead. he said. Religious buildings would remain open but gatherings and ceremonies should be postponed. France reported a sharp rise in cases on Saturday, from 3,661 to 4,499. It recorded 12 more deaths, bringing the toll to 79.

Elsewhere, I came across this chilling and horrifying assessment of the Coronavirus pandemic and a prediction of potential outcomes. I'm convinced that what we've seen so far is but the tip of the iceberg. Infection rates will increase exponentially from now on. There appears to be no solution to this pandemic other than a vaccine - and that has yet to be developed.

12th March. We're getting ready to batten down the hatches here - I think we've seen just the leading edge of the global Coronavirus pandemic - and who knows what the future will bring. Remember - get into the habit of washing your hands frequently while singing the anthem of your choice.☺ This is one I discovered by chance a few weeks ago. Here are a few more to choose from: here, here, here and here.

9th March. Just when you thought you could - maybe - predict the outcome of a match, the Guinness 6 Nations came up with a thriller from Murrayfield (Scotland's home) that is likely to change the outcome of this year's tournament.

First up though, Saturday saw Wales visiting Twickenham to play England in a match that I thought would be close - and my money was on Wales to snatch the win by <5 points. However, while it was close at the end of the 80 minutes, it finished with a narrow 33-30 win for England. Close but no cigar for the Welsh boys. Match report here.

Tuilagi was red-carded towards the end of the match for a 'no arms' tackle on George North - and Alun Wyn Jones' tackle was gripped by Joe Marler in an attempt - unseen by the ref - to provoke a retaliation from the Welsh captain that probably would have resulted in a red card for him (AWJ). Joe Marler is a somewhat bizarre individual but using whatever lies between his ears is not his strong point. The game does not need this.

The real story of the weekend came from north of the border at Murrayfield. A young French team had been writing its own headlines from the start of this year's tournament but I think that they travelled to Scotland with the mindset that they were in for a routine win. However, other teams (notably England) with the same mindset have gone to Murrayfield and found it to be the rock upon which their dreams foundered. Scotland were all over France yesterday like (as they say) "a cheap suit".. and France only managed to play their game in brief sequences. 

Exhibit A

France proved the truth of the saying that "no plan survives first contact with the enemy". They were unfortunate to lose their hooker Camille Chat in the warm-up, to be followed shortly after by their lively fly half Romain Ntamack, who left the field following a knock to the head. They were also deprived of Cros for 10 minutes for a dangerous tackle on Grant Gilchrist – although Paul Willemse seemed to be the real culprit – then worse followed for them close to half-time, when Haouas was sent off for punching Man of the Match Jamie Ritchie in his face. Provocation or not, there can be no argument against his red card. Scotland went on to win 27-17 - a result that was thoroughly deserved! Stuart 'Ogg (as he's called on French TV) had his usual influential match and flanker Hamish Watson seemed to be ever-present in both attack and defence - he has a low centre of gravity and is difficult to knock off the ball - a real warrior!  Match report here.

The upshot is that England has moved to top the table on 13 pts - with a slightly better points difference to France. What happens next is in the lap of the Gods.     

6th March. I came across this next clip by accident - I don't know about you but I feel sick just watching it. It's over in Vancouver Island. See what you think:

Look at his earlier videos for more scary stuff! 200 feet up in an aeroplane is a much less scarier proposition than 200 feet up a tree - especially with a chain saw dangling off your wrist! Wild horses etc.

I was reminded of a trip I made years ago to Tofino and Ucluelet on Vancouver Island's west coast.

Here's Tofino:

.. and Ucluelet:

I'd be sorely tempted to move there if it wasn't for a few insoluble practicalities - plus the fact I'm firmly rooted here! 

Much rumbling of thunder during the night accompanied by the sounds of rainwater running in the gutters. As we're only about 3-4km from the sea, the westerly gales of the last few days have also meant that the sound of crashing surf has been clearly audible here. I took the dog down to the coast a couple of times at the height of the gales and I don't want to imagine what life must have been like for anyone out at sea in the Bay of Biscay. The sea that I could see was seething - waves were breaking further out than usual - and the surface was a mass of whiteness with large banks of quivering wind-driven foam 2-3 feet high that had been blown high up onto the beach. There's no mistaking the sea here for the Mediterranean!      

5th March. One of the 'benefits' of my having taken French citizenship is that I am now eligible to vote in the municipal elections which will take place here on 15th and 22nd March.

Another step forward: this morning I received my Carte Electorale which, together with my Carte Identité, is needed to vote here.

Meanwhile, President Macron has issued a reassuring statement regarding the status of British expats here in France. He said, "Dear British friends, you are leaving the EU but you are not leaving Europe. Nor are you becoming detached from France, nor the friendship of its people. The Channel has never managed to separate our destinies; Brexit will not do so, either."

Personally, I've yet to experience anything but a warm welcome from people here. I think the UK media must shoulder some of the blame for stirring up tensions where, in reality, none exist. 

4th March. Some moody shots of Biarritz for you here filmed just before l'heure bleue (blue hour) or, as I'd call it, the "cocktail hour":

..speaking of which - I'm off to see a man about a dog.

3rd March. Coronavirus in France - info.

Looking for property in France with listings in English? See here and here. For listings in English in Pyrénées-Atlantiques - look here.

I heard on the news this morning that, prior to 2007, no high speed rail network existed anywhere in the People's Republic of China (PRC) and yet today - it has more high speed track than all of the other countries in the world - combined. Astonishing. And how many of their cities have you heard of?

It could be argued that the Chinese model of communism and capitalism is working better than Western capitalism. Unfortunately, the two party system prevalent in many western democracies is incapable of sustaining coherent long term strategies for the benefit of their peoples. It could only have been a Western politician who once said that "a week is a long time in politics". Yes - perhaps that statement is probably true for most everywhere - except for China, where they have traditionally taken the long view of events. There are many downsides to Chinese politics that would be unacceptable in the West - but there's no denying the remarkable results the PRC has produced.   

Then there was the offer by the CRCC to build the proposed UK High Speed 2 (HS2) in only five years for less money and at faster speeds (260mph). As kids say today: "What's not to like?". What an embarrassment..

The internet revolutionised society with the number of social networks that proliferated in recent years. Political debate (discours in French) has fragmented in conjunction with the rise of special interest groups enabled by the internet. During the last 3½ years of UK politics (post-referendum and pre-Boris Johnson government), we saw how dissent within both main parties threatened to overturn the status quo and destroy party discipline. I'm not sure that Jack can ever be put back in his box. Future election success will go to the political party that dominates social media. It's worth noting that few of your correspondent's generation are active in this sphere and once we're gone, debate will be a thing of the past. The short tweet is the way ahead for the upcoming generations (whether we like it or not). President Trump was the first to learn this lesson.     

I had to laugh yesterday morning listening to BBC Radio 4 - a report on the measures necessary to curb the spread of Coronavirus said that people should wash their hands thoroughly - but for how long? The UK's Health Secretary said members of the public should sing "God Save The Queen" as they wash their hands to try and combat Coronavirus. Normally, at times of national emergencies,  civil servants isually add on the caveat that the public should be vigilant.. but against an invisible threat such as Coronavirus they clearly decided it was unnecessary. Still, the image of millions of Brits standing at their kitchen sinks warbling the national anthem while they wash their hands will take a long time to fade.

Those familiar with British politics will recognise straight off the bat that this suggestion went down like a lead balloon with Scots of a nationalist persuasion! According to this report, GSTQ is the English national anthem.. and so it goes.

Off to wash my hands with a song in my heart!

2nd March. A real blowy and blustery day today.. I might just take another trip to the coast to see what the sea is up to.

We were out in the car yesterday and noticed the first greening in the trees - Spring is on the way. Our garden is cranking itself up for another year of growth - aided and abetted by spring rains and warm weather. We saw 20°C yesterday. 

I was down at the beach yesterday with Nutty, our cocker spaniel, and it was such a great day - a roaring sea with crashing Atlantic waves driven by a blustery wind from the west - and so I decided to walk along the coastal pathway (left) to "Le Rayon Vert" - a bar/restaurant (Edited to add in 2023: now closed) on the beach just outside Biarritz. If you click on the photo (right), a small yellow cross marks the northerly and southerly ends of the walk.  

On arriving there, Le Rayon Vert was still closed for the winter so we turned around and set off back to the car to try and break one hour for the out-and-back walk. Tick VG!

This walk didn't seem to have made any kind of adverse impression on the dog at all! Once we got home, he started darting around the house with his bone. Me? Er yes.. different story.. I don't mind admitting that I was glad of a sit-down! ☺

226. Step forward 2016

31st January. We went to see "45 Years" this afternoon at Biarritz.. Reading the reviews (The Guardian, the New York Times and TIME) after having seen the film had me wondering if I'd seen the same film as the critics. Say no more.

I was down at the beach at Anglet again this morning - and as I approached it I could hear a constant basso profundo roar (similar to an airliner during its take-off roll). My first sight of the sea took my breath away.. it was high tide with an on-shore wind and the waves were molto spettacolare.. I wouldn't have liked to have been out in the Bay of Biscay in a yacht.. or indeed any kind of boat.

I thought I'd wind up January with a visit to a favourite restaurant of ours.. it's La Ferme Ostalapia, at Ahetze (just outside Biarritz). It's set in an old farmhouse, with an interesting menu (spoilt for choice) and the atmosphere is stylish yet relaxed. Highly recommended.  

Fortunately for you, it was featured in a programme by TV presenter Julie Andrieu. Don't worry if your French isn't up to it - just enjoy the scenery. (I'll draw a veil over the group's singing of "Hegoak" as they ascend La Rhune..) When a group of Basques get together, it's never long before Hegoak is dusted off! 

Take a look and see for yourself:

Here's Julie having a first flight in a paramotor.. This is something that's been on my "to do" list for some time.. There's a school in nearby Saint Pée sur Nivelles..

28th January. I forgot to mention that the final piece of Christmas pudding disappeared on Sunday.. I might have mentioned before that, for me, the rich taste of this peculiarly Anglo-Saxon Christmas ingredient evokes so many nostalgic memories of Christmasses past. In keeping with tradition, it was dutifully flamed (with a drop of whisky) and savoured. Lips were smacked.. and smacked again! Another 11 months to wait before your correspondent sees its like again!<sob!>

   

24th January. Ever wondered how to say such useful phrases in Basque such as "Please speak more slowly" or (good luck with needing this next one!☺) "This lady will pay for everything"? Look here. Actually, there is a phrase in Basque for that last one - "Emakume honek guztia ordainduko du"..

The forecast for today is for 23°C (73°F).. Apologies to readers in and around Washington DC. We went to Saint-Jean-de-Luz in the afternoon - it was like summer.. the car was indicating 24°.. there were people swimming and all the usual parking spaces were occupied. The town was crowded with people and the cafés were bursting at the seams. As welcome as the heat was, I find it worrying.. what's happening?

This clip I found shows Saint-Jean-de-Luz as it was earlier today.. and funnily enough, the clifftops were exactly where we were.. I think this was filmed later in the afternoon.

18th January. A favourite TV programme of ours is "Les escapades de Petitrenaud” (France 5) and yesterday's edition was set in Cahors, in the Lot, and it had our mouths watering! The programme is presented by Jean-Luc Petitrenaud (yes, I agree, he is a bit precious!) and it featured Le Balandre* - a family-run restaurant (6 generations) which is now firmly pencilled in on our "to visit" list. * Now 'Bistrot 1911'..

And here's Jean-Luc Petitrenaud in the Pays Basque:

   

12th January. The other day I mentioned that we were subject to the occasional violent winter storm here. Last night, I was awakened in the wee small hours by what sounded like a bomb going off directly above the house as a thunderstorm blew in from the sea. I lay there for a few minutes listening to the crash and rumble of thunder mixed in with the west wind shrieking around the house, rattling the shutters as a deluge of water lashed down on the roof. I was glad we'd had the roof seen to not long ago - we replaced all the tiles, flashing and gutters. And so back to sleep!☺

11th January. I won't pretend to have been a massive fan of his work but here are two of his songs that I liked. He was an original.. and there are precious few of those around today. David Bowie RIP

Here he is with "Heroes" version français.. and an organ tribute here.

I came across this next one by accident.. it was always a favourite of mine.. It's the Edwin Hawkins Singers with their great no-holds-barred gospel version of "Oh Happy Day" from 1969. 1969! 47 years ago.. (how did that happen?)

  

The chattering classes have picked up on the black pudding story ('flavour of the month' news story) mentioned below and are now running with the ball.. (more here and here) Over the last few years, I think a major imbalance has grown up between the amount of rolling news media coverage we have versus the amount of news available to fill it.

I'm told that the forecast for the week after next weekend is for sub zero cold..

9th January. Up early this morning and down to the river for the first time in 4 months. I went out in a double sculler and pushed myself a bit to see if I'd have any after-effects around the base of my thumbs.. (I've had a nagging twinge there for months) We did 14km more or less non-stop. If there had been, then that would have been the end of my rowing days. Fortunately, there was no reaction and so next week I'll pay my subs for the remainder of the year. I have to admit to being relieved to see the clubhouse again! (added later: Creaking a bit this evening!)

It was a misty morning on the river with no more than 100 yards visibility - plus we had to keep an eye open for the occasional dead tree that was stuck in the river bed. Colliding with one of these is not fun. The low sun was directly behind us in our wake and it dazzled like liquid gold.

I came across some photos taken by a drone (not today) above the Nive.. The Nive is one of the most beautiful rivers I've ever rowed on - with the added bonus of the Pyrenees as a backdrop.. It's right up there with the Dee at Chester. I think it's worth clicking on these photos to see them at their best.

Ladies VIII

A "yolette"

A "pair oar" in the foreground

8th January. In case anyone imagines that it's all one jolly round of lotus-eating down here, in winter we are often at the wet end of violent storms that blow in from the Golfe de Gascogne (Bay of Biscay). At times like that, I like to get down to the coast to watch things as they unfurl..

Just a few kilometers south of Saint-Jean-de-Luz, an underwater reef causes this monster wave known as Belharra to be thrown up..

Meanwhile, here's a view of what it means to be Basque from "l'autre côté"..(across the border)

7th January. I see that black pudding (left) is now being touted by the chattering classes in the UK media as a "superfood".. I've long been a black pudding fan but all this "flavour of the month" hype leaves me cold.

The equivalent here is boudin noir - aka a dark-hued blood sausage (above). I can't speak for the rest of France but I find the boudin noir in the Pays Basque to be less appetising than its Lancashire (UK) counterpart. There's something about the consistency and texture of the Basque variety that makes me suspect that it contains more blood and less cereal than its Lancashire equivalent that, according to Wiki, "is generally made from pork fat or beef suet, pork blood and a relatively high proportion of oatmeal, in some recipes mixed with grits (oat groats) and sometimes even barley groats." We've had boudin noir several times in the Pays Basque but there's something about its high "wobble factor" (a technical term, m'lud) that I find off-putting. By contrast, your correspondent finds the firmer Lancashire variety infinitely preferable. I suppose it all depends on what you are used to.

All this talk of the boudin noir leads us neatly on to the boudin blanc - a completely different animal entirely. France being France, each region has its own local variation on the theme - as here:

Avranches: Onions, lard, chicken breast, cream, bread crumbs, pork, eggs, salt, pepper. 

(Avranches is in the Manche department, Normandy, on the Mont St-Michel Bay)

Castres, Tarn: Half lean pork, half egg panade flavoured with herbs, wrapped in caul, baked in oven.

Catalan or Pyrénées: Greyish white, added eggs and a good deal of herbs

Classic (made throughout France): White lean meat from pork and veal or chicken, pork fat, milk, eggs, sometimes truffles, in pork intestines, 5 to 6 inches (12 to 15 cm) long.

Havre and Normandy style: Light yellow, lots of pork fat with no lean, very fatty, often milk, eggs, bread crumbs, a starch of some kind or rice flour

Mazamet, Tarn: Half pork rind and half panade mixture based on egg, poached in water.

Rethel, Ardennes: Lean meat, pork fat, milk, eggs, no starch or bread crumbs. Has IGP status since October 2001. A "boudin blanc" festival is held each April in Rethel.

Richelieu (made throughout France): Chicken. Sometimes truffles. rich, formed into balls, wrapped in caul fat.

South-West: Pork, breadcrumbs, starch, eggs, a good deal of herbs, beef intestines. about 1½ inches in diameter.

Watch it being made.. (look away if you're of a nervous disposition!☺)

Of course, where there's a great food product in France, it's a fair bet that a Confrérie won't be far behind.. Enter la Confrérie des Compagnons du Boudin Blanc..

Montauzer at Biarritz

Montauzer, Bayonne

The best local exponent of the boudin blanc (in my opinion) is Maison Montauzer. There's a shop in the centre of Bayonne and also a stand at the indoor market at Biarritz.

Former President Sarkozy

Here's former President Nicolas Sarkozy enjoying himself (left) at the small Montauzer shop in Bayonne with MAM. For reasons that are unclear to me, the boudin blanc is only available at Montauzer around Christmas time. We had some on Christmas Eve served with sautéed apple.. (recipe here) A simple dish but one that's incredibly tasty.. maybe because Monsieur Montauzer adds some black truffle to his boudins. Yes, you can find 'industrial' boudin blanc in the supermarkets all through the year, but those of Maison Montauzer are worth waiting for. This dish is one of the gastronomic highlights of the year as far as your scribe is concerned.

4th January 2016. First of all, a Happy New Year / Bonne année / Urte berri on to all my reader(s).. I'm about to commit my New Year's resolutions to print. To be honest, my list has a familiar look about it!

1. Improve my French..

2. Practice my banjo..

3. Use my bike more.

4. Keep my desk tidy (or failing that - tidier)
5. Improve my French..
(file these under 'Fiction')

171. Now is the winter of our content..

2nd December 2011. After the quick trip down to Salon de Provence earlier this week I've been spending the last day or two catching up with all the trivia. However, there's one event that can't be ignored and it's one that's coming up fast over the horizon. I'm referring of course to Christmas.. I was looking at this French 'ard deescoont' site for Madame's favourite eau de toilette but they don't appear to stock it so a visit to the perfumed halls of Galeries Lafayette in Bayonne is called for. I must also pay a call to the chocolatiers in town for some of that dark, dark chocolate that she loves. If you want to spoil your sweetheart (and why wouldn't you?) take a look at some of the chocolatiers in the Pays Basque who have a web presence: here, here or here.

Here's a clip from our local beach at Anglet (just 5 mins north of Biarritz) - the perfect place for a post-lunch bumble!

Anglet

Yesterday afternoon we went down to the beach at Anglet and according to the car it was an unseasonable 20½°C (or 69° in Ye Olde half-timbered Fahrenheit) - on 1st December already! No complaints from me though. There was a thunderous surf running, huge rollers were rearing up and crashing with depth charge-like explosions of whiter-than-white foam against the end of the jetty, the air was heavy with salt spray and the dog's ears were flapping horizontal in the wind!

I've just found the following clip which was filmed at Anglet during some heavy seas last February. Scroll forward to start at 0:50.. At the mouth of the Adour there are a couple of breakwaters that we often walk out on to watch the sea. On days like the one in the clip below however, the council puts barriers out to persuade all but the eejits to remain onshore. You can see why at 4:06..! The sea front is dotted with German blockhouses that look as though they might just last for 1,000 years (as promised!). 

Lawn Update.. (you've been waiting for this haven't you!) We've been re-seeding the moth-eaten sections of the optimistically-named lawn with grass seed that claims to be 'Rustique Sud'. This is a grass that has a broader leaf and the Sud part of the name implies that it should be successful in these 'ere parts. Meanwhile the local bird population must be thinking that it's an early Christmas for them too! I think we have a couple of pigeons nesting in one of the trees and their idea of a good day out is to peck great holes in the lawn. Little treasures! This morning I set a net up over the grass in an attempt to give it a fighting chance of survival. We'll see. 

The Christmas Village in town opened yesterday.. I haven't been down to see it yet but here's a look at last year's: 

Meanwhile, these lines by A E Houseman have been running through my head - especially the "blue remembered hills":

Into my heart an air that kills

From yon far country blows:

What are those blue remembered hills,

What spires, what farms are those?

That is the land of lost content,

I see it shining plain,

The happy highways where I went

And cannot come again.

3rd December 2011. A brisk outing on a cold river in an VIII sculler this morning - we finished up being pursued by another VIII, set up for rowing (as opposed to sculling). If you're unsure of the difference have a squint at this. We did 17km - with the last 2-3km being quite lively! Then into the clubhouse for an apéro as it's the first Saturday in the month.

I went into Spain this afternoon to stock up with a few essentials (think Scotland - that's all I'm saying!). In the steeply sloping fields of the border area I saw a few new-born lambs of the season tottering about in their mother's wake.. looking as if they were made of pipe cleaners. They don't normally make their appearance so early do they?   

4th December 2011. Just been out to the baker mentioned here for a baguette tradition - these are the best baguettes in Bayonne by a long way. I've been to this baker perhaps 3-4 times before and I've always asked for a baguette tradition bien cuite (ie, well baked) each time. Three or four times is not very often so today when I asked for a baguette tradition (forgetting the bien cuite), the lady turned around to select one and she added, "Bien cuite!" I congratulated her on her memory and she laughed.. I don't suppose she numbers too many Brits among her customers. (so much for my accent!!)

That's one of the aspects of living in a town this size that I enjoy - you do get to make contact with people. I was at the garden centre this afternoon buying a new lead for the pooch - he'd chewed his way through his present one in that endearing way of his and it parted this morning in the centre of Bayonne while I was en route to buy bread. Anyway, back at the garden centre I bumped into one of the girls from the rowing club - she greatly resembles Charlotte Rampling - and she planted a couple of bisous on my cheeks - this is one 'furrin' tradition that should be encouraged in England!

Spotted this picture (right) in a BBC TV report about the recent demonstrations in London against the government cutbacks. Somehow I don't think the Brits have quite yet grasped the noble art of demonstrating. This sign won't be giving David Cameron many sleepless nights!☺ It's completely in line though with an observation someone once made that if ever there was a revolution in England and the howling mob was told to 'take' a railway station, they'd all buy platform tickets. Revolutions don't work in mild climates. We've been brought up to be polite, not make a fuss, show consideration for others, say 'sorry' if someone bumps into us and so we don't really do rampaging.. It's not our style. I'm not trying to claim some form of moral superiority here but that's how it is.

While we're thinking about surf, have a look at these truly disturbing images of very large waves that are found just a little bit further south down the coast. It's the giant wave that breaks on the Belharra Reef, just to the south of St Jean de Luz.. Any takers? (Now tell me it's Photoshopped!)

6th December 2011. There are odd things I notice here that sometimes I wish I carried a dictaphone for to remind me.. I've got the memory of a goldfish these days. As it is, I was reminded by something on the radio just a few minutes ago of a cliché that's used here a lot in the media if they're discussing something British. Whatever it is they are discussing, if it's British it's always labelled "So British".. whatever that means. And another thing - it's become fashionable now for people in the media to use the word 'Yes' as a kind of exclamation mark.. One last one - I saw an advert in one of those free "What's On in the Côte Basque" magazines for a bar that promises drinks, ambiance and 'fooding'. Again, so British!  

With Christmas coming up, here's a little reminder of you-know-what:

11th December 2011. On Thursday I was at the rhumatologues for some injections in my knees. About 2 years ago, he gave me a series of 3 injections over 2 weeks in my knees of a silicon-like compound. On Thursday, I was there for an all-in-one shot via a needle about the size of a bicycle pump (only a slight exaggeration..). He preceded it with (look away now!) an anaesthetic shot into each knee, followed by the 'Big One'. Afterwards, I walked to the car feeling quite sprightly but later on I was hobbling around as the effects of the anaesthesia wore off. Sunday sees me still moving awkwardly but hopefully things will have settled down in a day or two.

Strange but nonetheless very welcome weather this year - yesterday afternoon it was a balmy 19C (66F).. It's difficult to imagine Christmas being a matter of only two weeks away. I went out and bought a proper desk chair yesterday. With all the time I'm spending stuck in front of this screen with work, my old Victorian wooden chair was putting a permanent flat spot on my backside.. so this modern cushioned swivelling tiltable adjustable jobby was sorely needed.

13th December 2011. Here's a Paul McCartney song that I was unfamiliar with until I heard it on the radio the other day for the first time.. There's something very nostalgic about the first few lines that reminds me of those 'Rupert' books that I used to read as a kid at my aunty's house. She always kept a few early ones under a cushion and they were much sought after. They were beautifully illustrated in a slightly surreal style - the professor in his smoking jacket, hot air balloons, castles in the clouds etc set against an iridescent background. I see from the link above that the current price is £70..

The Dubliners have long been a favourite of mine - here's Barney MacKenna with his instrumental version of 'Boulevogue'.. 

14th December 2011. Biarritz, our more glitzy neighbours just 10 minutes down the road, is putting on a spectacular light show this year: We'll definitely be taking a look..

  

113. St Jean de Luz on film..

25th January 2011. If a picture's worth a thousand words, then what d'you suppose is the going rate for a short film..? I've decided to give my keyboard a rest for this post and instead show you activities in and around the jewel in the crown of the Pays Basque - Saint-Jean-de-Luz.. You'll see traînières racing in the bay of St Jean; the Fête of the Rouge et Noir (when everyone wears black & red) and the Rue de la République - with all its restaurants - becomes alive with travelling bands; the mass fandango dancing in the Place Louis Quatorze, the Fête du Thon (Tuna Festival); the pelote players and the bulls stuffed with fireworks (crazy!):

This clip (below) was from the Fête de Saint-Jean-de-Luz (when many are in red & black)... at 4:03 they start singing Hegoak - the Basque anthem which is sung on both sides of the border: It's clear that an overwhelming majority of the people take great pride in Basque cultural events and participation is widespread among ages in the community.

  

Now is it me - or does this not look like a lot of fun..?

A cultural interlude now - Maurice Ravel was born in Ciboure - across the harbour from Saint-Jean-de-Luz - in the pale stone house just left of centre:

 Some more culture of the musical variety:

Here are some students and concerts from the Maurice Ravel Academy:

The huge waves from the Belharra Reef are next - they're truly gigantic and hard to believe but they're here.. just a few kilometers south of St Jean de Luz:

Chistera

The fastest of all the ball games played in the Pays Basque is Pelote Basque. All the rules and variations are spelled out here.. When played with the chistera, the ball has been measured at speeds of 250-300 kph (155-185mph), which makes it the fastest racquet ball sport in the world.

Paddling one of these Polynesian pirogues in the surf looks like it could be fun!

16. Sunday lunch again

Anyway, it’s Sunday again and there’s not a cloud in the sky. I could get used to this! We’re off to the restaurant in 'our' village again for lunch. After that, we’ll probably lurch down to Saint-Jean-de-Luz or to Biarritz for a waddle along the sea front.

The nice thing about houses like the one we’re in is that in the morning, you can open the windows, push back and clip the shutters in place - then leave the windows wide open to air the room properly. I think that’s why so many people in England suffer from asthma – the houses don’t get properly aired. They live behind their double glazing with the central heating on and the windows never get opened. Consequently, the bedrooms are full of microscopic dust from skin flakes etc..

Another rant over!

 Later that day - had an excellent lunch at the restaurant – we hadn’t booked so we had a different table.. They had a new menu for Autumn – the starters were either frogs legs or an Autumn salad which was a cold collation: 2 major slices of Bayonne ham, their own paté, warm foie gras, salad, asparagus tips, gherkins, hot bacon. Madame chose the frogs legs while I had the salad.. After that, the choices for the main course were either: civet of hare, wild boar, a brochette of fillet of venison or a wood pigeon. Madame had the wild boar and I had the venison. I was feeling a bit stuffed after the starter because the foie gras was about the size of a horse’s ear.. and it had been quick fried and was delicious beyond words.. plus all the ham… To be honest widger, I could have stopped there with just the starter.. but I was eating for Britain..

Madame’s wild boar came with steamed waxy yellow potatoes and a little stack of creamed chestnuts.. My venison was on a big skewer interleaved with bacon and mushrooms and had a pile of chips with it (finger wagging time!)… Both were delicious – my venison was red in the middle and tender. So tasty.. Madame’s was the same… All this slid down accompanied by some Madiran, the local red (aka the world's healthiest red wine).. After that, there was a sorbet with something alcoholic poured over it. After this I had a coffee – well, I was driving! How much was that lot I hear you ask..? £18 each..

Scientists have found a correlation between the greater health & longevity enjoyed by men in this region of France (compared to the rest of France) and the consumption of the local red Madiran wine.. Something for the ladies: dark chocolate is also mentioned. For more information, here's the link that claims Madiran has significant health benefits. Dark chocolate and red wine eh? Could be a lot worse!

We had a walk around the village to try and walk some of it off – it was very warm. I’d left the gîte in a padded jacket and a sweater over my shirt but I left these in the car and just had my shirt on.. in late October as well. Not a cloud in the sky and the village looked wonderful.. the mountains were purple in the sunlight.. Think the thermometer outside the Pharmacy said 18C but that was a shade temperature. I think it was nearer 22 in the sun.

After this we went to Biarritz to have a walk along the front.. There was a surf competition on – French National Championships – and there were quite a few people down there watching the big rollers sweeping in.. There were quite a few Brits there with it being half term. We sat and watched the surfers for a while too before heading for home..

Surfing the Belharra reef

For more hard core surfers (well-insured ones with a death wish), there's always the monster waves at the Belharra Reef for those brave enough to try - just to the south of St Jean de Luz.. If this picture (and no, it's not been Photoshopped!) doesn't put you off, then you probably need to watch the truly scary video..

In this next beautifully filmed clip, the monster waves above are shown forming over the Belharra reef (turn the sound up!) :

And so ends another week.. I could get used to this.. (there's an echo in here!) What am I saying...? I am getting used to this..!! Living healthily is fairly easy down here - the tricky part is remembering where I left the corkscrew..