224. Calm before the storm

18th October. Had lunch in the garden today.. and the way this year is shaping up so far it could well be for the last time - the temp was around 18°C. I also oiled and greased the plancha and put it away in the garage for winter.

I've not mentioned the Rugby World Cup (I think) lately.. With rugby, it's either feast or famine.. Once a year, in February-March, we get the Six Nations tournament - where the six participating countries are roughly of equal ability. To me, it's the highlight of the sporting year (from an armchair perspective) and I rate it higher than the Olympics.. However, come the Rugby World Cup and we get drowned in a deluge of matches - sometimes three in a day. Maybe it's me but I'm afraid I can't get too excited over England - Uruguay or New Zealand - Tonga or Canada - Romania..

Occasionally however, there's a titanic clash between 2 countries where I genuinely don't care either way who wins the match - yet it's totally enthralling. Such a game was played yesterday between South Africa and Wales. I've never been a fan of Welsh rugby (and not just because they booted us out of the RWC!☺) but yesterday I think they shaded the match and <through gritted teeth> were unlucky to lose. Perhaps the South Africans were slightly fitter as they seemed to take charge in the final minutes. But, well done Wales.. I don't begin to understand how the players can take - and dish out - those monster hits.. I can't leave the Welsh without mentioning Dan Biggar (above). He's a great player and seldom misses his penalties - but (you know what's coming don't you!) he's adopted the bizarrest and most laughable of pre-kick routines.. Give the image below a few seconds to load.. OK, it obviously works for him but I think they should put screens around him while he does it. It's verging on an OCD..

As for the New Zealand - France game last night, I switched off after about 30 minutes. We in the northern hemisphere thought we had caught up with the superior fitness levels and play of the southern hemisphere sides - but clearly New Zealand (and to a slightly lesser extent the other two big sides Australia and South Africa) has raised the bar. The way the All Blacks started off during the opening 30 minutes was unwatchable. They played with a ferocity, an intensity and their customary disregard for the opponent's well-being that's uncomfortable to watch. I'm sorry - I'm probably wrong - but that's how I see it.

Sad to see Ireland exit the stage.. beaten by an Argentinian side with a 43-20 scoreline that flattered the Pumas. There aren't too many sides in the world game that could afford to lose through injury the likes of Paul O'Connell, Jonathan Sexton and that great flanker Peter O'Mahony.

Who would have thought that at this stage (before the Australia-Scotland match has been played) that it's odds-on that there won't be a single northern hemisphere country in the semi-finals..? Out (in alphabetical order) are: England, France, Ireland, Italy and Wales. The semi-finalists are New Zealand, South Africa, Argentina and (at the risk of annoying anyone north of Hadrian's Wall) most likely Australia. I'd put money on the final being between New Zealand and Australia. Now you're going to ask me who I'd like to see win it as opposed to who I think will win it? You'll have to email me for the answer to that question. I wouldn't want to upset either of my readers in New Zealand and Australia..


The question that will be exercising the governing bodies of Rugby Union across Europe tomorrow morning must surely be "Where do we go from here..?" It's time for those hard decisions to be taken.. In my view, both the England manager and the captain must be questioned. I think Stuart Lancaster is an honourable man and he's done a great job of rebuilding the side but unfortunately his selections have come up short - both in the 6N and the RWC. "More of the same" isn't an option.. As Martin Johnson once observed, "There are no points for style.." Chris Robshaw may be many things but a leader of men he isn't. Yes, he may do lots of unseen work but I'm afraid I can't remember a single memorable passage of play in which he was involved. No, if I was the CEO of the English RFU, I'd be tempted to call Sir Clive Woodward in for a chat and make him an offer he couldn't refuse. Not just cash either - but back the guy up with everything he needs. No back-stabbing - no quibbling over his methods - give him the job and support him 100%. He's a winner. Remember this Test match against New Zealand in Wellington in 2003? At one point England were playing with 13 men - and still they won. Winning in NZ is one thing - winning there when down to 13 men is another. He'd instilled belief in the players. It also helped that he knew his best XV...

I took the dog for a long walk along the beach at Anglet this morning.. and, unusually, the sea was flat calm. Miniscule waves, like those seen at a lakeside, lapped on the shore. (had to remind myself that this was the Atlantic) Looking out to sea somewhere between ½ mile and a mile, someone appeared to be walking on water  - just like this image, except his paddle and his board were invisible. A couple of thousand years ago, this would have been enough to trigger a new religion at the very least!

While I was down there, a café sign caught my eye.. it read "Le Coconuts".. Perhaps it's me being picky on a Sunday morning - but shouldn't this be "Le Coconut" or "Les Coconuts"? On this same theme, there's a shop in Saint-Jean-de-Luz called "Sweater's".. known as the Greengrocers' apostophe in England.

Don't get me started on greengrocers' spelling (right).. I've actually seen these spellings in markets in England.. (in case you're wondering, OBO-jeans are aubergines and Monge-Two are mangetout..) OK, I promise I'll get out more..!  

    

6th October. I've mentioned Ramiro Arrue before here.. his work encapsulated the Pays Basque to such an extent that it remains the graphic reference to this day. He painted in a deliberately naïf style that showed the simple dignity of the Basques in their daily activities. While I believe his work shows occasional signs of being influenced by Cézanne and Lautrec, he had a unique and enduring style.

     

If you'd like to explore the unspoilt Basque country on foot, I'd suggest you head for the Baztan valley in Spain (purists would argue this is still the Basque country - and they'd be right!). I mentioned it in Post 207 (scroll down the link about halfway). If you think you'd like to have a walking holiday (guided or unguided) there - then why not contact Georgina Howard who runs Pyrenean Experience..? Her holidays sound like a lot of fun. Here's a reminder of the area:

3rd October. I've always liked these old travel posters (& art works) of the Côte Basque - so much so that I finally put together a short video of some of them. Some are influenced by Toulouse-Lautrec, while others tip their hat to the Cubists or to Art Deco.. Ramiro Arrue's work is in there too. All are interesting in their own way. (PS I know the music isn't Basque but to me it's a summer sound.. and it just seems right. Look here and here)

26th September. We were invited to an afternoon repas with the Goraki Choir in Ciboure today.. the night before they'd given a concert at the Saint-Jean-Baptiste church, Saint-Jean-de-Luz.

This is a mixed Basque choir and we know a few people who sing with them. The venue for the meal

was the parish hall, hidden in a narrow winding street in Ciboure.. The massively beamed hall was up on the first floor with stunning views across the river into the harbour of Saint-Jean-de-Luz - views that would have had estate agents salivating. 

The organisation was impressive.. rows of tables had been set out - enough to cope with the 170+ guests who were expected. To go with a welcome glass of local cider, teams of helpers were circulating with all kinds of appetisers - delicious small sausages known as "loukankas", a variety of quiches, cold soups in small cups, a mix of potato salad and cod - again in a small cup - and other delights. After much to-ing and fro-ing and general shuffling about, we all eventually sat down - only to jump smartly to our feet as the room resounded with a Chant d'Honneur that was sung with an impressive vigour.. Each place setting came with its own Basque song sheet.

A number of planchas had been set up outside and a small team were hard at work cooking over well over 1,000 gambas (left). Clouds of blue smoke rose up from the planchas as the gambas sizzled. They were delicious.. and, as they had to be eaten with the fingers, each table had been well-stocked with finger wipes.. While all this was going on, a few musicians kept stoking the fires by singing some Basque favourites.. Corks were being popped like at an Irish wedding as we all settled to the task.

Meanwhile, the plancha team weren't slackening off - we could see them slaving outside over their planchas - loading them with enough ribs of beef (côtes de bœuf) to feed the assembled masses.. Teams of ladies came round with platters piled high with substantial slices of rare beef (right).. This was neither the time nor the place to be a vegetarian.. this was red beef - red in tooth and claw.. It had clearly been hung as it was as tender as you like. A long time since either of us had had meat as good as this. Nouvelle cuisine..? Fuhgeddaboutit..!

More outbursts of singing punctuated the chomping of beef.. as seconds were brought around. (in case you're wondering - yes, I did!)

The choir formed up and sang for us - Basque voices have a unique timbre to them that's very distinctive. Unfortunately for non-basque speakers, the language is completely impenetrable and gives no clue at all as to the meaning of the song. On the positive side, they have some great tunes that are instantly memorable.

Cheese and dessert followed and soon the coffee came out. We had to make an early exit as our poor pooch was at home alone. Luckily he likes his sleep these days.

A great day and one in which it was plain to see the pleasure and the pride that everyone present took in their culture.               

25th September. A new expression caught my ear the other day: bourré de pognon*.. When I first heard it, I thought it sounded rather like one of those flowery menu descriptions in a trendy restaurant.. like Ecrasée de pommes de terre - which is how mashed potatoes are currently described in über-trendy restaurants here (Ecrasée = crushed). 

"Yes, I'd like the bourré de pognon to start with, followed by .." etc etc.

* For anyone desperate to know the answer, it means "stuffed with money"..

We finished up at La Plancha, Bidart this afternoon. It's situated overlooking the beach at Ilbarritz (just to the south of Biarritz). Well worth a visit..

11th September. There was a piece on Télématin (France 2) this morning that featured the Musée de l'Annonciade at Saint-Tropez. Made a mental note to go there one day. Some wonderful paintings there.. Scroll down this link and see what you think..

I gave Madame one of those internet radios the other day.. Without wishing to sound as though I'm on commission, the performance is - no other word for it - simply staggering.. Not only does it have the capability to access over 10,000 internet radios - but it can also work as a FM radio, or DAB radio.. It can also receive podcasts.. and input from other devices.. Simplicity itself to use as well.  I found myself exploring Cuban radios - and stations around the Caribbean.. before returning to European stations. Needless to say, Madame is totally delighted with it. She says it's right up there with her Mac laptop. Praise indeed..!  

10th September. If you like jazz, try TSF Jazz..

It was a visit to a Thai restaurant in Biarritz the other day that made me think of this.. If you like Thai food - and you live in Seattle - then this is for you.. I was once fortunate that for a few years my work took me to Seattle on a regular basis. I was taken out one day for lunch at Saya Restaurant, a Japanese-Thai restaurant at 8455 S 212th St, Kent, WA 98031. Yes, it does look anonymous and you could be excused for driving on by, thinking it doesn't look special. Whatever you do, don't.

Gai Yang

Someone once said to me what I'm about to say to you - "Just trust me and order the Gai Yang.." (Thai BBQ chicken). It was by far the best BBQ'd chicken I've ever had - and it was astonishingly good value. It's chicken thighs that have been marinated in yellow curry powder and coconut milk (I think). What wouldn't I give for one now..! When I used to go there in the mid-1990s, it was $7.00. Twenty years on it's still only $8.50.. How many marks out of 10? 17..! 

I remember once going there after an interval of at least a year.. The waitress took one look at me and said, "Gai Yang, right?" (How did she remember me? I'm not that windswept and interesting!) Over a period of a few years, I went through the menu there - tried every dish - I didn't have one I didn't enjoy - but their Gai Yang was by far the best. The service is also right up there! You'll thank me for this.

If you somehow managed to miss the final of the Mens' VIII from the world rowing championships at the beautiful lake of Aiguebelette in the Savoie last weekend, you're in luck - you can watch it here.. The race ended up as a "toe to toe" slugfest between Germany and Britain. Keep an eye on the stylish Kiwi crew.. A pity they ran out of gas in the last 500m. Perhaps a future race-winning boat?

9th September. Spare a thought for your poor correspondent - he's frantically trying to finish translating a number of speeches (fortunately from French => English) that have arrived late from various people so that they'll be ready in time for the weekend.. Desperate measures have been called for!   

7th September. I'll probably get howled down for being a complete philistine (again!) but I think this next piece would have received J S Bach's imprimatur.. It's his Brandenburg Concerto No 3 in G major played on a synthesiser.. (cries of "Hanging's too good for them!")

Compare it with the more traditional version:

What do you think? I'm not saying one is better than the other - I think the modern version can stand comparison with the original. 

Anyway, moving on, loins are being girded in anticipation of the forthcoming weekend's exertions.. Yes, it's the annual Comète commemorative weekend - where around 100 or so people from all parts of the world gather together at St-Jean-de-Luz to pay homage to those of the Comète Line who gave so much during WWII. On the Saturday and Sunday, we'll be tracing one of the wartime escape routes taken by the Comète guides and the evading airmen from Ciboure over the Pyrenees and into Spain. 

At times like this, I wish I'd spent at least a few days up in the hills this year but for one reason or another that didn't happen. However, I know I won't be the only one! 

186. Wet and windy Pays Basque

19th May 2012. Thunder and lightning overnight here, followed by the welcome hiss of rain. Of course, the dog was quick to take advantage of the situation by jumping up on the bed and shivering in time with each rumble of thunder.. 

I found this video this morning.. it's Manfred Radius, a glider pilot in the US, who carries out spectacular displays at night trailing sparks from fireworks mounted on his wingtips - all accompanied by classical music. Stirring stuff! (I couldn't place the beautiful music at first - but to put you out of your misery it's the Intermezzo from Mascagni's Cavalleria Rusticana) 

20th May 2012. I was walking the pooch this morning along the beach at Anglet when there was the sudden unmistakable roar of military jet engines. Looking south towards Biarritz, I spotted seven Alpha Jets of the Patrouille de France arrowing across the coast in a relaxed 'gaggle' out into the bay at low level (~200') before heading north under threatening grey skies - looking for all the world like predatory sharks as they returned to their base after taking part in a weekend airshow at Saint-Jean-de-Luz..

Rugby is the sport down here in the South West. The fact that it was successfully implanted here owes much to one Harry Owen Roe, a Welshman who came here to Bayonne on a rugby tour over 100 years ago and liked it. (Think he might have met someone!) There's a lot more about Harry Owen Roe here. He was clearly held in such high regard that the town even named the street that runs down the side of the Aviron 'garage' Rue Harry Owen Roe after him!

Football is definitely a minority sport here and driving through the countryside it's surprising just how many rugby goal posts you see. Here's a clip from TVPI, the local TV channel, that gives an idea of the passion and enthusiasm for the game in the south west and the Pays Basque in particular:

Finally, in case you've been wondering what Pipérade is all about, it's a classic Basque dish and it has to be one of the world's tastiest. Sparing no expense, here's a chef from Carrefour to show you how it's made. This is a really simple dish to prepare and as I said before, it's delicious. So, no excuses for not trying it out!

NB: Try to use the freshest of eggs and Bayonne ham sliced as thinly as possible.

167. Indian summer in the Pays Basque

5th October 2011. Sorry for being a stranger lately but I've been busy with a large lump of work (technical aviation-related translation: Fr => Eng) that's come my way. I've been sat here polishing the seat of my pants for the last few weeks poring over a couple of large technical dictionaries.. but as we're in a natural break of a few days I thought I'd try and keep you up to date with all the news that's fit to print from the Pays Basque. 

First of all, how about a quick burst of Edith Piaf as she gets to grips with Milord.. a 1959 hit for her, with the distinctive sound of that jangly street piano:

 

And while we're at it, it's been a long time - too long - since I've featured this next one - which is top of my list of music videos - straight from the Django Reinhardt festival in New York City. With such a group of virtuoso performers it's difficult to single out one but, if you were to force me, I'd have to say the clarinettist is in a league of his own - those last few bars of his solo never fail to put a smile on my face. Hint: volume to max!

Boulevard Thiers

Bar Basque

6th October 2011. For the past few months I've been exchanging emails with Perry & Caroline, a friendly Anglo-Dutch couple who live just to the east of Tarbes. They were taking a short break in the Pays Basque - renting a gîte at Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port - and they'd struck lucky with the Indian summer that's been upon us for the last couple of weeks. We'd arranged to meet at - where else! - the Bar Basque (above right) in the Boulevard Thiers (above left) at Saint-Jean-de-Luz. Despite not having met them face to face before - I'd only exchanged a few words over the phone with Perry - it soon felt as though our acquaintance stretched back much longer. A pity they live so far away. After our apéro, they were off to tackle a plateau de fruits de mer..  at Kaïku in what I call "Restaurant Strasse" - more usually known as Rue de la République (between the Place Louis XIV and the beach):

Now if you can all just take a step backwards while I deal with this, I'll be with you shortly..!

On the way home I noticed that the council has started the annual pruning of the platanes.. This always gives a stark look to the streets and is a reminder that the seasons are changing.

The Rugby World Cup.. ah yes.. My money's on Ireland. Sorry if anyone's offended!

8th October 2011. Up early this morning to watch the Wales-Ireland game.. one of the best games of this RWC in my humble opinion. Ireland weren't allowed by Wales to play their game and the result was a great win for Wales.. 22-10. They looked very impressive indeed.

A hour later it was England's turn. Hmmm. France won a competitive match 19-12 but I think they'll struggle against the in-form Welsh. I don't think England started with their best XV.. But, based on my previous predictions, I wouldn't get too upset about that if you're a Bleu supporter! 

9th October 2011. The Rugby World cup is coming to the boil now.. this morning Australia surprised me by taking the semi-final spot ahead of South Africa.. while New Zealand predictably dispatched the Pumas. So one half of the draw sees a mighty Australia-New Zealand battle while the other sees France taking on Wales. The problem for me is that if I'm watching a game I like to be able to root for one side against t' other. All Blacks vs Wallabies? I've never been a fan of All Black or Australian rugby - but the current Wallabies play with an invention and a freedom that's very watchable so I'll be packing down with them (inn my armchair) in any of the scrums. France vs Wales? That's more difficult as they're both the traditional enemy in rugby terms. I suppose I'd like to see France sent home early - with my money riding on the Welsh now to win the Webb-Ellis cup.. (if Ireland couldn't!) Bring the cup back to the UK - even if it would be to the Welsh part! I should add for any Welsh reading this that I'm 25% Welsh so be gentle with me!

10th October 2011. I was watching Télé Matin on France 2 this morning and one of the news items was that it would have been John Lennon's 71st birthday today. I must admit that the story of his astonishing rise (meteoric doesn't do it justice) from a less-than-promising start in an anonymous Liverpool suburb to unprecendented world-wide fame intrigues me still. It was just short of 50 years ago that he and his group exploded into global consciousness and the mention of his name on French TV this morning shows that his name still retains all the old power it had. For those of you who, like me, grew up in that era, several films have been made about his early years that explains much about his development into the person he became.. but the one to search out is Backbeat (1994). 

12th October 2011. Yesterday we had a few hours in San Sebastian. Each time we go there I'm reminded just what a civilised town it is. It grows on me with each visit. There are squares with fountains, pedestrianised areas, wide pavements, elegant brown stone apartment buildings, some fascinating shops (what am I saying?!), friendly people and not forgetting La Concha.. the definitive bay with its great crescent-shaped expanse of yellow (nearly said golden!) sand. To my mind San Sebastian is as good as it gets. The bonus for us is that it's only a short 45 minute drive away - and parking isn't a problem.

15th October 2011. We headed off across the border into Spain yesterday for some essential shopping at Dancharia - so after picking up Madame in town where she'd been, I decided to take the old route that we used to take when we were in the gîte. It was a morning under a cloudless sky, the country roads were deserted and again I realised as we passed by our old gîte that 4 years had somehow passed by. The pale outline of La Rhune lay to the south rising above the silvery early morning haze with the endless jagged hills and mountains of the Pyrenees extending away to the south east. After Ustaritz, we headed for Cambo before taking the turn off for Larressore (where traditional Makhilas are still being made out of Medlar wood as they always have been). It was through Larressore that the Comet Line established a new route for the escaping Allied airmen in WWII after it became too dangerous to use the Saint-Jean-de-Luz/Ciboure/Urrugne route. Many escaping aircrew owe their freedom to the bravery shown by the people of Sutar (partic. the Auberge Larre), Larressore, Espelette, Souraïde and Dancharia. I think it's fair to say that this development of the Comet Line escape route into Spain is not as well known as the original route. 

As we emerged onto the road for Espelette the broad expanse of the Pyrenees lay before us. The fields and trees glistened as the low bright sun picked up the early morning dew. A few blue grey clouds clung to the sides of the higher mountains. We were reminded again just what a stunning corner of France this is. Once through the picture postcard village of Espelette, we took a winding side road that took us up into the hills to Ainhoa (one of France's most beautiful villages) and then a short run down to the unmanned border and Dancharia. We had the roads to ourselves and the country was looking at its best with the trees just starting to turn russet greeny/brown - I should have had the camera with us.

On the return we stopped off at Espelette at Antton - the chocolatier.. (available online..) They make their own chocolate on the premises and the rich smell of chocolate is all-pervading. As we walked in, we were greeted by the two ladies who offered us some chocolate to taste. Good start! You have as much chance of leaving empty handed here as you do when viewing puppies! All I can say is the chocolate doesn't disappoint.. far from it. I could taste its lingering richness all the way home. Worth remembering this address with Christmas in mind. We bought a bag of "La Ganache au Piment d'Espelette". This is dark chocolate with an inspired pinch of piment.. It's right up there with the best chocolate we've tasted. Madame's eyes glazed over when she tried some last night.. Eek!

16th October 2011. What can I say about Wales.. A moment of madness allied with an arguably harsh refereeing decision saw Wales reduced to 14 men 20 minutes into the match with France after a fine attacking start. However, once they'd got used to the idea that 14 Welshmen would be more than enough to see off a lack-lustre French side they simply carried on where they'd left off. They took the game to France in fine style while the French XV seemed bereft of any coherent attacking ideas of their own. Wales scored the only try of the match with a fine effort by Mike Phillips - who'll be playing for Bayonne this next season.

The only French player to emerge with any credit was the truly classy Maxime Médard. If only the Welsh kicking game had been slightly more accurate they'd be in the final. They scored the only try of the game and I don't think France could have scored even if Wales had left the field. Final score 9-8 to France.

Still, you have to hand it to Les Bleus.. They've played poorly throughout this tournament (beating an even poorer England side by only a converted try) and yet here they are in the final - having lost already to the All Blacks and Tonga.. I fully expect that either the All Blacks or the Aussies will administer a mighty stuffing to them next weekend. I wouldn't like to see a team that has played such undistinguished rugby walk away with the World Cup.

Yesterday evening I finished the latest instalment of work on my PC at ~6pm and I made a couple of drinks for Madame and her ever-so-'umble servant.. We sat on the terrace on a warm, still evening watching the light fade with a sangria and a wee whisky.. Ah, that felt good! So good in fact, we had another!

Pain aux raisins

There was an early burst of activity at Pipérade Towers this morning as I tried to squeeze in a few jobs before the All Blacks-Wallabies match (kick off at 10am). After a trip to the well-run council décheterie on the banks of the Adour to dump some garden rubbish, I continued along the river bank for another km as far as the roundabout (above left) with the France-Asia supermarket. Just across the roundabout is a baker - and it's here that, in my opinion, they make the best baguettes in Bayonne (Edited in 2023 to add: ownership since changed..). They make all their own bread and cakes on the premises and their baguette tradition is always a pleasure to eat - a crispy crust and a good length. The real star of the show though is their pain aux raisins.. In addition to a baguette tradition, I bought a pain aux raisins this morning. I've eaten pain aux raisins the length and breadth of France and this was the best I've ever had.. Moist, light, buttery yellow, generously filled with raisins - exactly as they should be and at 0.93€ they're far cheaper than the bakers in the centre of Bayonne (1.25€!). Another 5 star recommendation. Driving back home along the river, the sun made an appearance and gilded the surface of the water. It would have made a good photo if I'd had my camera with me.. (Think there's a message here!)

I saw the first 50 minutes or so of the NZ - Australia match until it struck me that it was really unwatchable - all crash, bang, wallop - and I wasn't enjoying watching it so I switched off. It all reminded me of rugby league in the sixties - two lines of players facing each other and the interminable pick and go's, grinding out another yard of territory. Is it me? - but exactly what is it about the All Blacks and their boss-eyed supporters that makes them so peculiarly and so deeply unlovable? First, there's the increasingly bizarre 'Haka' which, frankly, I couldn't give a toss about even if it is supposedly representative of some ancient South Pacific cultural heritage but each year it evolves and gets choreographed to become (yawn..) 'more frightening'.

Here's the original Hand Jive with Johnny "Mr Lip Sync" Otis - with three ladies who could teach the All Blacks the right way to do the 'Haka'! (plus - there's the makings of a good front row there!)

And here's the 1973 version - where the ABs look like a bunch of embarrassed blokes demonstrating the Macarena (having done the 5 minute course on the radio!). Notice that in those days that the 'Haka' was performed for the crowd..
And this is what it's become.. how can anyone take this seriously..?

I think their opponents should just leave the ABs to their willy-waving shtick and go for a stroll around the stadium, or have one last chat to their loved ones at home, eat an ice cream or read the paper.. The notion that the opponents should respect the 'Haka' is laughable! I've never understood why the IRB have, over the years, allowed them to perpetuate this tired old bit of hokum.. which sends the message that the following 80 minutes aren't going to be so much as a sporting contest as open warfare. As far as I'm concerned, the ABs have always played a uniquely brutal brand of ultra-physical rugby - enlivened only by the home crowd giving vent to some imaginative singing: “All Blacks….. All Blacks….. All Blacks….. All Blacks….. All Blacks…" ad infinitum. I’d like to have seen an Australian win.. (and it's not often you'll hear me say that!)

As for next Sunday's final, to be honest I don’t care who wins - France don't deserve it the way they've played so far - but then I don’t want the All Blacks to win either.. The classic case of two bald men fighting over a comb. Let's hope that France can raise their game, play some memorable rugby and then, who knows, anything might happen. Think I’ll be tidying my sock drawer and hoping for a northern hemisphere win..

Now - lean back, forget all about rugby, click on 'play' below, close your eyes and enjoy Chet Baker's version of 'Autumn leaves'..

before finishing up with this - from 'Chet Baker in Tokyo' - Almost Blue:

130. Jambon de Bayonne

18th March 2011. It's taken me 130 posts to get around to this..! Shame on me. Question of the Day: What is Bayonne justifiably famous for..? (apart from the bayonet) Yes - Jambon de Bayonne or Bayonne ham!

As you know by now, where there's a food speciality in France, you can guarantee that a Confrérie won't be far behind: 

.. and, this being the Pays Basque, that means a song!

This next clip looks like it was filmed at the annual Foire du Jambon de Bayonne. In my view, while I do eat it, I always find it a bit too thick for me as it is normally sliced by hand in the manner shown at 1:07:

In Italy, the prosciutto is sliced paper-thin on a machine such that it melts in the mouth. If only I could find someone to slice jambon de Bayonne wafer thin for me.

Jambon de Bayonne

Apparently pigs reared as far north as Poitiers can be used to make jambon de Bayonne. There's also a brand "Aoste" which many people assume to be prosciutto from Italy but is actually made in France. 

I encountered Prosciutto San Daniele in northern Italy and they eat it sliced very thinly there so that it melts in the mouth.. as seen at 3:09 in this clip.. and that's exactly how I used to bring it back from Italy when I was working there:

I'm reminded of the time I was in a Waitrose supermarket in England and standing at the delicatessen counter for something I noticed a large San Daniele ham hanging up on the wall with some other hams and salamis. I asked the girl if I could have 300gms of San Daniele ham and she looked at me with eyebrows raised.

"We don't have any of that sir," she said.

I said, "How about some from the ham hanging up behind you?"

She replied, "That's just a hollow plastic model for decoration.."

Aaaaagghh!

And while I remember, I was once at the meat counter in a Morrisons supermarket buying a leg of lamb and I asked the girl where it came from..

She replied, "The fridge.."
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Corsicans have a reputation in France for being somnolent, not too active and overfond of their siesta. The great French comic Fernandel, blessed with an instantly recognisable and naturally funny horse-like face, made fun of them in his song "Le Tango Corse".. (in which he describes the dance as "la sieste organisée..")

19th March 2011. Went up the river against a very strong current this morning in a coxed quad sculler of nenettes! We did a very enjoyable 12km (Running total: 500km). I've said it before but it's always a pleasure to row with the fairer sex as they're never slow in getting their oar in!

The rugby.. ah yes.. I did say in an earlier post that the Ireland v England 6 Nations rugby match had the potential to be a

and was it ever..! Ireland comprehensively outplayed Martin Johnson's emerging England team 24-8. England still finished top of the table and it will be a valuable lesson for them. Hopefully!

Scotland beat Italy 21-8 and France restored some pride with a 28-9 victory over Wales. It was odd watching the France-Wales match.. who did I want to win? Well played Ireland!

127. Veni, vidi, puni

13th March 2011. It wasn't Marc Lièvremont's finest hour yesterday. Despite the view held by some critics  that he has the best squad of players in the Six Nations, France somehow contrived to lose 22-21 to the Italians in Rome. (I'd argue with the proposition that France has the best players this season - I think the England squad has come on leaps and bounds since last year.) The multi-talented France XV, winners of last year's Grand Slam, were absolutely hammered only last November by the Wallabies 16-59 (still sounds unbelievable doesn't it?) Then, a couple of weeks ago, they were unable to score a try in a real dog-fight of a match against their old foe England and finished well beaten 17-9 (the score could have been much worse). Yesterday, les Bleus managed to excel themselves by achieving what was previously thought unimaginable - losing to Italy. And all this with the same French team who'd hit the heights last season. To be fair to Italy, they've been steadily improving under coach Nick Mallett since they joined in the fun in 2000 and while they've beaten Scotland and Wales, the Azzurri have been threatening to take a major scalp for the last couple of years.

I think the malaise lies with Lièvremont's quirky selections and the fact that, here we are, with the RWC on the horizon and he still doesn't appear to know his best XV. I was surprised (as in astonished) to see Harinordoquy of all people starting the match on the bench. Harinordoquy - the one player who never lets France down! A truly bizarre decision by the manager whose personal motto appears to be: "Veni, vidi, velcro.." (I came, I saw, I stuck around). 

Will the FFR stand by Marc Lièvremont with the Rugby World Cup in New Zealand only 6 months away? Or will they take decisive action and replace him? There's nothing wrong with the players at France's disposal - it's all to do with the selection and the mentality of the players. I think the FFR would be well-advised to let Marc Lièvremont spend more time with his family and bring in Fabien Galthié. As a respected former player and a currrent rugby commentator I'm sure he has his own views on the squad and appointing him now would give him 6 months to rebuild their confidence. It wouldn't be the ideal build-up to a World Cup but what's the alternative? If they stay as they are, France will be in for a torrid time of it in New Zealand come September. 

I think part of the problem stems from their obsession with "French flair" - this desire to play beautiful running rugby from the back, full of slashing moves that involve running the ball from all angles, keeping it alive whenever possible, with the ball being passed at speed by fast running backs. Personally, I'd be delighted if France could re-discover "French Flair" - as long as it's after the RWC in September! Here's a memory-jogging video for you:

Nothing wrong with "French flair" - except that it's a fifteen man game and forwards have their place too. There's an element of national pride involved here too - they wish to play in their own style - a style that owes nothing to Anglo-Saxon realism. For example, they often try to run the ball out of defence when a kick is much the safer option. I know I'm in danger of lurching into cliché here, but in my view (strictly armchair) they should play percentage rugby, ie, what's in front of them and eschew the flashy, high risk moves that look spectacular if they come off but lead nowhere if they fail. Rugby at the highest level is about winning. (just a minute while I adjust my cushions!) As the ever-pragmatic England manager Martin Johnson is fond of reminding his players, "It's not like ice skating - there are no points for style." I think les Bleus would do well to bear that in mind.

A big match for England this afternoon. Scotland will be looking to do an "Italy" and will be seeking to imposing their traditional hard driving hard rucking style on the game. I'm expecting a bruising encounter with England cranking up the pressure in the second half to win.
 

Sunday 6.15pm.. England beat Scotland 22-16 in what was a hard fought must-win match.  Scotland are always fired up when they play England and today was no different. By contrast, England looked positively somnolent and sluggish from the 'off' - they all looked like they'd had a good lunch - and were unable to impose their game on the Scots who'd raised their game to the point where they could arguably have taken all the points. I thought there was a forward pass in the build up to England's try and also Scotland were unlucky to have John Barclay sin-binned. He'd been getting up the referee's nose with his constant questioning of every decision so he wasn't given much leeway. A question on sin-binning in general - if a player is yellow carded, does the clock timing his 10 minutes absence out of the match stop when play and the match clock is stopped? (as when the ref was himself injured and substituted)

Tom Croft flying in for his try

It was odd watching England today - right from the kick off they played as though the match was going to be a routine win for them. It was anything but. Scotland were noticeably sharper and more aggressive. England needed a leader on the field who would drive them on and get them fired up. With only one game against Ireland in Dublin next week standing between them and a long-awaited Grand Slam, Martin Johnson will rip into them next week during training. I'd like to see more of the 6'7" (200cm) 18 stone (115kg) Matt Banahan in action - he made a mess of poor old Kelly Brown when he came on in the second half in place of Mike Tindall. It'll be a brave man who forecasts the outcome of the Ireland - England game as Ireland will have been taking notes. It has much potential to be a banana skin game!

15th March 2011. France coach Marc Lièvremont has made six changes to his Six Nations squad to face Wales on Saturday. Out go Poitrenaud, Thion, Chabal, Jauzion, Marconnet & Rougerie. Huget will start from the bench. The starting line-up will be Médard, Clerc, Marty, Traille, Palisson, Trinh-Duc, Parra, Harinordoquy, Bonnaire, Dusautoir, Nallet, Pierre, Mas, Servat & Domingo. The Welsh will be fired up for this match as there's an outside chance that they could still win the championship. Expect another dog-fight. The forecast? Too close to call but it could well be a win for the Welsh (not my favourite team by any means but who are a well-deserved second in the Six Nations table). If France were to lose, I think the FFR's hand would be forced with regard to Lièvremont. The knives are being sharpened.

122. England step up a gear

27th February 2011. What a cracking game last night..! ("What game..?") (Wake up at the back there!) The 'crunch' game between England v France in the RBS 6 Nations rugby tournament)

England came out 17-9 winners in a closely fought match, full-back Ben Foden having scored the only try that was allowed. Mike Tindall had a try disallowed which I still think was a good 'un but that's how it goes. Chris Ashton also had one disallowed for a forward pass which was impossible to judge from the TV picture. There were some mighty tackles being made all over the pitch and some very tired bodies out there at the end of the game last night but by keeping a clean sheet as far as conceding tries are concerned, England proved that they can shut out a strong attacking side like France- even if on occasion they needed a helpful bounce of the ball to do so. At the end of the match we were all exhausted from the nervous strain of watching! 

We watched it with A & V at their house in Biarritz. A made me laugh - he brought out two enormous bars of Nestle Crunch!! He took the loss very well considering and I managed to stay on my best behaviour!

After V's delicious post-match dinner, we settled down to watch a film that I doubt many Brits are aware of - "La Grande Vadrouille" - with French comedy greats Bourvil and Louis de Funès plus one of my all-time favourite English comedy actors - Terry-Thomas.. An RAF bomber piloted by T-T is shot down over Paris - & what follows is pure French farce! For over forty years, until the release of Bienvenue chez les Ch'tis in 2008, La Grande Vadrouille was the most successful French film in France, topping the box office with over 17,200,000 cinema admissions. We watched it in French but I found the humour and the French dialogue easy to follow.

I've been meaning to mention this for a while but the French have a habit of taking English words and using them in a different way. The one that always catches my eye when I go for a haircut is shampoing. (And yes, that's how they spell it) It's pronounced "shom-pwang". Another one I hear all the time on the car radio are the non-stop ads for hypermarkets where they describe shops like Lidl as 'Ard Deescoont' (that's Hard Discount to you & I!).

120. Ze Big One or Le Crunch

3rd February 2011. If you don't know what I'm referring to by the title of this post, then you have to have been living on the Planet Zanussi for the last couple of weeks. This coming Saturday, in the third match of the 6 Nations rugby, England welcome France to Twickenham. To say this is an eagerly awaited match would be to seriously understate the case. It's provided the back page sports writers with something they can get their teeth into as well - especially in the wake of comments by France's coach - Marc Lièvremont.

France took the Grand Slam last year (ie, they beat England, Ireland, Scotland, Wales & Italy) and are so far unbeaten in this year's competition. It's fair to say though that they haven't hit the heights of which they are capable. They also suffered a morale-shattering defeat by Australia in November. On the other hand, a resurgent England - at last playing with pace, power, inventiveness and yes, promise, under Martin Johnson's leadership - now look like genuine contenders.

Key men? France will be relying on the dynamic Basque Imanol Harinordoquy to drive their attack whereas England will be looking to provide the exuberant Chris Ashton with some ball he can run on to.

Float like a butterfly, sting like a bee..
.. dive like a sack of spuds!

Both teams are going to be pumped up for this match and there are some very powerful players on both sides. As an example of what we might expect, here's a compilation of what's now known as "big hits":

We've been invited to watch the match with A & V, our French friends in Biarritz so, win or lose, I'll have to behave myself! These matches are always special - I just hope that as a spectacle it doesn't disappoint us. If you're asking me who's going to win, I'd have to say England. And I'm tempted to say by a clear margin.

"How many's that then..?"

By 15 points. (sticking my neck right out!)

Special pre-match bonus.. here's a reminder of an immense encounter between France & England in the 1991 World Cup quarter final in Paris. The French were playing in front of their President and were convinced that they were going to win. One of the highlights of a brutal game was this try-saving piledriver of a tackle by Mickey Skinner on Marc Cecillon that stopped the rampaging giant Frenchman in his tracks and drove him back 5 yards..

I found this match report on the web:

Just as truly great players are often known simply by their first name – Gareth, Gerald, Jonah – some historic incidents are instantly recalled by the briefest of headline descriptions. Ask any England rugby fan this week about 'The Tackle' and they will immediately smack fist into palm and go all dewy-eyed about Mick Skinner's extraordinary 'hit' on Marc Cecillon in the 1991 World Cup quarter-final. It was a tackle par excellence, a game-changing moment and a symbolic moment of pure drama that belonged to the theatre. It involved two immensely powerful men, including one – Cecillon – whose life was to take a remarkable and tragic turn when he left centre stage and tried to live a normal life. Skinner shouldn't even have been there, according to some, having been controversially brought in ahead of Dean Richards, who had started for England at No8 in the pool matches.

Skinner was the Geordie lad-about-town who paraded in garish waistcoats, wore his hair unfashionably long and spoke dismissively of the 'girls' in the backs. He was 'large' – to use his favourite Geordie expression – in just about every conceivable way and roistered his way around the London and England rugby scene for a few years, enjoying the fruits of the amateur game.

He pitched up at the 1987 World Cup as a replacement under the impression, not altogether incorrect, that he was attending an end-of-season piss-up, but 1991 England had got serious under Geoff Cooke and the talented Skinner had knuckled down. Underneath the joking prankster was a smart man — a highly prized computer consultant assigned to the Metropolitan Police — a considerable athlete and raging patriot to boot. Cooke believed he could add a certain dynamism to the England back row that could just help take them to a World Cup title.

So fast forward to Paris and the Parc des Princes on Oct 19, 1991. England are playing France in the World Cup quarter-final and all kinds of mayhem and madness are confidently predicted. The commentators weren't wrong, they just underestimated it.

The French were on a mission and not just because they believed they could win the World Cup. Seven months earlier they had pitched up at Twickenham for a Grand Slam decider and scored three sumptuous tries – including that contender as 'greatest try ever' by Philippe Saint-Andre courtesy of Serge Blanco and Didier Camberabero – only to be denied by England's mighty pack, the boot of Simon Hodgkinson and, in French eyes, some dodgy refereeing. Revenge and retribution were on the menu as well as a World Cup semi-final place.

England knew that and, with their mean-machine pack, planned on getting their retaliation in first. Their early assault on the revered Blanco as he gathered a high ball and was thrown around like a rag doll still makes the hairs on your neck stand up and it set the tone for a brutally physical game. France possessed an ugly, brutish pack at the time and England matched them all the way.

And so it came to pass in the second half, with the score poised at 10-10 going into the final quarter, France were pressing for the try that would probably have opened the floodgates. A scrum-five was awarded and France were rock steady on their put-in, setting it up perfectly for Cecillon, a 6ft 4in rock from Bourgoin who eyed the line with relish.

Skinner read the situation perfectly and, more importantly, timed his bone-shattering tackle to the micro-second as Cecillon momentarily gathered himself before surging for glory. But there was more. It wasn't just that Skinner merely stopped Cecillon, he then proceeded to drive him back fully five yards, dismissing the Frenchman from his very presence. Oh boy, did the 20,000 travelling England fans like that. The siege had been lifted, from that moment you knew with certainty that nothing was going to stop England.

Skinner was on a high and the French nonplussed. The maverick Eric Champ – old mad eyes himself - clearly wanted to punch him into the next parish but, in a rare moment of discipline, opted for a strange staring competition as the two went head to head, literally. Skinner won that little stand-off as well and England went on to win 19-10. After the game the French completely lost it and coach Daniel Dubroca attacked New Zealand referee David Bishop in the tunnel. Dubroca resigned soon after. Their bluff had been called at every juncture but Skinner and his tackle was the catalyst.

Having come to serious rugby late, Skinner's international career ended on a high the following season when he played in all of England's Grand Slam games and scored a try in the decider against Wales. As well as his computer consultancy, he signed for The Sun as their rugby columnist; after his Paris heroics they had dubbed him 'Mick the Munch' and produced a video of the game's greatest tackles. In his mellow middle-age Skinner remains a rugby nut and is a massive supporter of the Wooden Spoon Society, the RFU's charitable trust for the game.

My last memory of Skinner as a player was watching him captain a scratch Blackheath XV at Loughbrough University in his declining years and handing out a masterclass to the young Tony Diprose opposite. Skinner then continued the teach-in at the university bar where he bought the impoverished students ale all night and happily passed on every last nugget of wisdom he had gleaned during his career. A top rugby man.

By all accounts Cecillon, a former France captain, was also a top bloke, a hard-core rugby enthusiast, though less flamboyant than Skinner, who was known for his calmness at all times. Rugby was his life, completely and utterly, and when age caught up with him and he retired in 1995 he struggled to cope, became depressed and started drinking too much.

It was then that his life came off the rails. In August 2004, after drinking all afternoon at a barbecue — police tests later revealed him to be five times over the legal limit — he grew moody when his wife, Chantal, refused to leave with him. Cecillon disappeared for a short while, then returned with a gun. He shot Chantal dead, pumping five bullets into her head and chest. There were more than 60 witnesses and it took 12 party-goers to subdue Cecillon and tie him into a chair until the police arrived to arrest him.

"Chantal, Chantal. Where are you? I need you," Cecillon cried from his cell until he finally sobered up the following day.

At his trial, which transfixed the nation, he broke down in tears as he begged forgiveness: "I ask for pardon from my wife Chantal. I loved her. Pardon from my daughters Angelique and Celine. Pardon from my mother-in-law Marinette... I never thought I'd do it." He was sentenced to 20 years in prison.

A real tragedy for Cecillon, his family and for French rugby.

What wouldn't I give to see someone in a white England jersey score a try like this one from Billy Whizz - aka Jason Robinson:

Now breathe deeply, think happy thoughts and r e l a x..