75. Variation in property prices around France

29th July 2010. This link shows the disparity in property prices around France - shown in euros per square metre. (Loyer = monthly rental) You can click on the area(s) you're interested in on the map. No surprises here.. the south and west coasts remain popular.

We've experienced the Fêtes de Bayonne a few times now so this year we've decided that we're going to escape from it by going east up into the mountains at the weekend. While there, we're planning on taking a trip on Le Petit Train d'Artouste. It's billed here as Europe's highest railway although this one seems to have the winning credentials.  Here's a video of it as it chugs up the mountains next to some vertiginous drops..

  

Fans of the surreal Father Ted TV series will recognise this image that was used by Father Ted in a vain attempt to channel Father Dougal's thoughts upon more conventional lines.. I've found this useful myself on occasion! (The animation seems a bit 'iffy' - so if it doesn't work, just click on it..)

30th July 2010. I've just noticed that we've finally picked up a reader of this blog from the African continent - hello and thank you to Zambia..! What kept you?

2nd August 2010. Back home this morning after a really enjoyable few days away in the mountains. Madame had found the Hôtel les Bains de Secours* (above), a delightful small country hotel (Logis 2*) with just 7 rooms at Sévignacq-Meyracq, just to the north of Laruns.

* Edited to add: The owner retired a year or two ago - not sure if it has re-opened. 

 

Set in idyllic surroundings, it was well situated for exploring the region. Stepping outside, the only sound came from the discordant tinkling of cow bells in the green pastures all about us. We set off for the Tourist Office at nearby Laruns to pick up information about the mountain train at Artouste.. With it being the start of the major French summer holidays, we booked an early train on Saturday morning.

While at the Tourist Office, I noticed that tuition was available for fly fishing. I've had a fly rod gathering dust for years but now I finally have the time to start learning the art of casting a fly. Madame - a city girl - asked me where I would get flies from. I replied from a fishing tackle shop.  She then asked me if they'd be dead or alive..! I'm still laughing at that as I type!

We first had to take a cable car up to the terminus station for the narrow gauge railway.

Lower cable car station at Artouste-Fabrèges

Billed as the highest railway in Europe, it started out life supporting the construction work in the '20s required to build a dam, one of a number in the area supplying hydro electric power stations. If any would-be traveller on the train is subject to vertigo, I wouldn't recommend sitting on the left hand side of the open carriage (as you face forward) on the outbound train or the right hand side on the returning train as the drop-off in most places is sheer - and there's no safety barrier or fence..

Arriving at the dam, we had a picnic in burning sunshine and drank in the stunning views before returning. This next clip of the Petit Train d'Artouste was filmed in exactly the same weather as we experienced:

Later we drove up several spectacular climbs that had recently been used in the Tour de France overlooked by mountains that loomed out of the blue haze:

This was the view from the summit of the Col d'Aubisque:

Finally, we returned to the hotel - both of us with an appetite you could photograph..!

The chef at the hotel is clearly an artist as every meal we had there was inventive, colourful, refined and - absolutely delicious! The waitress brought out a small dish of amuse-gueules with the aperos.. One of these was scallops and squid.. mmm. We'll definitely be returning there before long. Highly recommended. (the usual disclaimers apply)

Be advised all my comments relate to the previous owner's tenure. 

Here's another tune that I've liked for a long time without knowing what it was - I finally googled the lyrics this morning and bingo.. a hit from 1988!  

Disappointed I haven't covered more of the Fêtes de Bayonne..? Here's a story that hit the regional papers - a flashmob (don't ask!) turned up in the centre of Bayonne..

74. La sauce HP

28th July 2010. HP Sauce used to be found on most tables in Britain.. and the label had a lengthy list of ingredients in both English and French. This was probably the first time that many Brits had come across the French language and I'm sure that I wasn't the only one who used to sit there as a kid attempting to read the French ingredients. In this clip, the late great Marty Feldman takes it one step further - in the manner of Jacques Brel or Charles Aznavour:

73. Calm before the storm..

24th July 2010. Beautiful day here today - cloudless blue sky and it looks like being a perfect day on the river. I'm just getting ready to leave for my Saturday morning row up the Nive.

While I'm away, here's something to keep you occupied for a minute or two. I don't normally do online tests (compatability, intelligence, personality etc) but the other day I came across this intriguing Personality Test. On completing the questions, I found the result described me remarkably accurately. It's aimed at people who are in the job market but it's none the worse for that. Try it and prepare yourself to be astonished.

Here are three for listening to late at night - Chet Baker with My Funny Valentine, Thelonius Monk and 'Round Midnight and, to finish up with, the great Charlie Parker with Summertime:

  

Feel like a dreamlike flight over Paris..? The fifteen minute video that you'll find at the link below has Madame (une vraie Parisienne) transfixed.. she's watched it at least half a dozen times - if not double figures - to my knowledge.. I had wondered out loud at Post #39 if a film tribute to Paris had ever been made along the lines of Woody Allen's opening credits for Manhattan. Stunning photography coupled with some highly nostalgic music (by some of the greats - inc. Piaf & Brel) are combined here to produce a memorable fifteen minutes. Step right this way - and be prepared for something special..

26th July 2010. Walked to the post office in town this afternoon and the final preparations for the Fêtes de Bayonne are in full swing.. Heavy lorries loaded up with fairground rides are parked in key locations. Fast food shacks are springing up everywhere.. The usual wandering souls (and their dogs), who appear (as if by magic) when crowds are expected, are here too - looking for a pay day. The park benches had some late risers stretched out on them this afternoon. I think the population of the town has already doubled in size with many more to come.

The start is less than 48 hours away now - at 2200hrs (French time) on Wednesday night. You can watch the scene outside the Town Hall live on a webcam - check the website for the Fêtes. Following the opening ceremony, there's the Mother Of All Firework displays at 2210hrs right in the centre of town... watch the clip below at 0:40 - it's as noisy as the opening 15 minutes of "Saving Private Ryan" - and again at 5:30. In the Pays Basque, fireworks come in just the one flavour - deafeningly LOUD!!