77. Blast from the past

8th August 2010. I thought I'd take the dog for an early morning walk while it was still cool to his favourite - the Place des Basques - a grassy tree-lined square on the edge of the town centre - where he can go loose. We were walking down the big avenue that's lined with apartment buildings on one side which leads to the Place when I thought I heard in the distance the distinctive sound of a street organ. I suddenly realised that the mellifluous tones weren't coming from a radio somewhere but from the genuine article. This was the first time I've heard one of these in years and it was being pulled along the road surface by a father and son team.. (straight out of a 60s Italian film - except they were probably East Europeans) Mounted on rubber tyres, it was about the same size as the one in the clip below and it sounded very similar.. Pops was cranking the handle and Junior was holding out a tin cup to catch any centimes that might be thrown down from the balconies..

At just after 9am on a Sunday morning, I thought they were being just a tad optimistic in trying to generate some interest and a few euros from the still-shuttered apartment blocks. I doubt if many people would be up and about and the only people out on the streets were a few dog-walkers like me or those in search of a fresh croissant or baguette. I think the penny suddenly dropped with him too for he suddenly stopped the music in mid-crank and they headed back towards town.  

I'd like to have filmed the two of them as it was a real sound from an age gone by..

For the last few evenings we've had to endure the sound of bullfights from Les Arènes (just a few hundred metres away) - the stupid music, the whistles, the applause and the jeers.. I don't understand how, in an otherwise civilised society, the State can continue to sanction the practice of this degrading and cruel activity within its territory in the 21st century. And, to add further insult to injury, the bull ring is part-financed from our local taxes.

If bull-fighting is to continue, then this is the sort of level playing field I'd like to see a lot more of. In my view (and you may have your own opinion) these spectators got exactly what they deserved:

76. The old boy's knackered..

5th August 2010. Taking a break from the Do-It-Yourself job from Hell..! I've been down in the cellar for days now brushing the dust & cobwebs of decades off the wooden beams prior to slapping some toxic gunge on them.. It's not helped by the fact that I can't stand upright either - think there's less than 6ft (1.83m) of headroom down there. I can hardly breathe for dust and I've been wearing a mask which doesn't help either in this heat.. Worst job I've ever done.. but I've only got 4 beams left to do.. I'll be glad when it's finished..

With yet another of those songs that will continue to play in your head all day long after the clip has stopped - here's Jeanne Moreau singing "that" song in François Truffaut's "Jules et Jim".. (1962) (lyrics in English here)

That wonderful clip (Post #73) of Paris viewed from the air opens with a snatch of a Piaf song ("Sous le ciel de Paris") that's been on my mind while I've been toiling in the cellar..! Here it is in full:

I've decided I'm going to keep a cumulative total of the kilometers I've rowed.. (for my own benefit) Tonight's was 12km. (and it feels like it!)

7th August 2010. 14km this morning... (total 26km).

75. Variation in property prices around France

29th July 2010. This link shows the disparity in property prices around France - shown in euros per square metre. (Loyer = monthly rental) You can click on the area(s) you're interested in on the map. No surprises here.. the south and west coasts remain popular.

We've experienced the Fêtes de Bayonne a few times now so this year we've decided that we're going to escape from it by going east up into the mountains at the weekend. While there, we're planning on taking a trip on Le Petit Train d'Artouste. It's billed here as Europe's highest railway although this one seems to have the winning credentials.  Here's a video of it as it chugs up the mountains next to some vertiginous drops..

  

Fans of the surreal Father Ted TV series will recognise this image that was used by Father Ted in a vain attempt to channel Father Dougal's thoughts upon more conventional lines.. I've found this useful myself on occasion! (The animation seems a bit 'iffy' - so if it doesn't work, just click on it..)

30th July 2010. I've just noticed that we've finally picked up a reader of this blog from the African continent - hello and thank you to Zambia..! What kept you?

2nd August 2010. Back home this morning after a really enjoyable few days away in the mountains. Madame had found the Hôtel les Bains de Secours* (above), a delightful small country hotel (Logis 2*) with just 7 rooms at Sévignacq-Meyracq, just to the north of Laruns.

* Edited to add: The owner retired a year or two ago - not sure if it has re-opened. 

 

Set in idyllic surroundings, it was well situated for exploring the region. Stepping outside, the only sound came from the discordant tinkling of cow bells in the green pastures all about us. We set off for the Tourist Office at nearby Laruns to pick up information about the mountain train at Artouste.. With it being the start of the major French summer holidays, we booked an early train on Saturday morning.

While at the Tourist Office, I noticed that tuition was available for fly fishing. I've had a fly rod gathering dust for years but now I finally have the time to start learning the art of casting a fly. Madame - a city girl - asked me where I would get flies from. I replied from a fishing tackle shop.  She then asked me if they'd be dead or alive..! I'm still laughing at that as I type!

We first had to take a cable car up to the terminus station for the narrow gauge railway.

Lower cable car station at Artouste-Fabrèges

Billed as the highest railway in Europe, it started out life supporting the construction work in the '20s required to build a dam, one of a number in the area supplying hydro electric power stations. If any would-be traveller on the train is subject to vertigo, I wouldn't recommend sitting on the left hand side of the open carriage (as you face forward) on the outbound train or the right hand side on the returning train as the drop-off in most places is sheer - and there's no safety barrier or fence..

Arriving at the dam, we had a picnic in burning sunshine and drank in the stunning views before returning. This next clip of the Petit Train d'Artouste was filmed in exactly the same weather as we experienced:

Later we drove up several spectacular climbs that had recently been used in the Tour de France overlooked by mountains that loomed out of the blue haze:

This was the view from the summit of the Col d'Aubisque:

Finally, we returned to the hotel - both of us with an appetite you could photograph..!

The chef at the hotel is clearly an artist as every meal we had there was inventive, colourful, refined and - absolutely delicious! The waitress brought out a small dish of amuse-gueules with the aperos.. One of these was scallops and squid.. mmm. We'll definitely be returning there before long. Highly recommended. (the usual disclaimers apply)

Be advised all my comments relate to the previous owner's tenure. 

Here's another tune that I've liked for a long time without knowing what it was - I finally googled the lyrics this morning and bingo.. a hit from 1988!  

Disappointed I haven't covered more of the Fêtes de Bayonne..? Here's a story that hit the regional papers - a flashmob (don't ask!) turned up in the centre of Bayonne..