148. Sunday morning in Biarritz

5th June 2011. We went for a walk in Biarritz this sunny morning and decided to have lunch at Casa Juan Pedro, one of the outdoor cafés (the one in the centre below) that border the old harbour in the Vieux Port. 

We arrived there before midday as these places fill up very quickly on a good day and luckily we found a table next to the harbour wall. Looking down at the sea, we watched patrols of good-sized grey mullet quartering the inlet above looking for scraps of food. There was an occasional flash of silver as one rolled over to take a choice morsel.

Biarritz was full of people (it was a long weekend) - we're only a few weeks away now from the start of the main holiday months of July, August & September.

The warm weather brought out some bizarre people too. Two strange-looking blokes (with something of the Gilbert & George about them) appeared in black business suits with their heads inside what looked like goldfish bowls. They were wearing goggles, nose clips and breathed via an external tube.. the goldfish bowls were full of water and indeed they had fish swimming around inside. Straight into the Seriously Weird category. Are these what are known as performance artists? Who cares! 

6th June 2011. Spare a thought today for the thousands of young men who, 67 years ago, lost their lives during the D-Day invasion of France. Of the 175,000 Allied soldiers who fought that day, some 9,100 died. If the European Union does nothing else, it will ensure that the destructive pattern of wars and conflicts that plagued the continent for hundreds of years are, and will remain, a thing of the past. I think that's a price well worth paying. 

Lucky Dip Dept: The internet is the most amazing resource for leading you off on a wild goose chase.. this morning I found myself listening to the sound of the BRM V16 racing car whilst 'googling' for something completely different. Designed during the immediate post war years, it first raced in 1950 under the formula that allowed unsupercharged engines of 4.5 litres or, in the case of the BRM, supercharged engines of 1½ litres (91 cu in). This beast produced a staggering 600hp at 12,000rpm.. petrolheads click here, here, here, here and here for a reminder of what was arguably the most spine-tingling sound ever heard on a post-war racetrack.. Probably best to wait until the Fun Police has gone to the shops before cranking the volume to max! (They just don't understand do they..)

8th June 2011. I've been plagued with a v clever virus on my PC since Monday.. I've managed to restore the basic functionality but 95% of the programs show as 'empty' and strange things are happening.. I'm getting there but it's been a long slow process. I was asleep this morning when I suddenly woke up at 1.30am with a fix for one of the problems so I nipped next door to the study and fired the thing up and managed to get somewhere with resolving the mess it's in. Back to bed at 4.15am. I can't understand the mentality of people who write these viruses. Make sure you have a good malware program running. Speaking of which, bookmark this site and be sure to read it. Full of good advice on how to keep your PC free from problems.

147. Living in the Pays Basque

2nd June 2011. If you've made it this far, you must surely be aware by now that living in the Pays Basque is to be highly recommended. And if, for whatever reason, you can't live here, then you should at least try and visit it. If you're unable to visit it, then read about it, soak up all the nuances of everyday life in the Pays Basque. Where can I do that I hear you wail..? Right here..! All this is by way of saying that when you stumbled across this blog, you landed on your feet!



Yesterday morning we set off for Irun, just across the border in Spain, for a spot of shopping. Well, 50% of us went shopping while the other 50% (the part that writes this) went for a long walk around Irun with the dog instead. After the shopping bug had been temporarily sated, we met up again and headed back towards home on the N10.

The sheltered harbour of St-Jean-de-Luz as seen from Ciboure 

Recently I've been exchanging emails with a London-based couple who are in the throes of deciding whether or not to buy a property that needs restoring in Ciboure. This is the small community that lies along the southern edge of the bay of Saint-Jean-de-Luz. They've found a house up on the hill that rises up behind the riverfront. As we were passing by on the way home, I decided to take a look at it. I thought I knew approximately where it was but once we'd entered the rabbit warren of narrow lanes - some not much wider than the car - it wasn't long before my sense of direction let me down.

Fortunately, I'd remembered a key word in the address and I entered this in the GPS - bingo! It turned out that we were only a couple of minutes away - and suddenly there it was.. just as in the photos. In all the time we'd been visiting the Pays Basque, this was one part of the coastal settlements that we hadn't visited. From what I've been told, the house seems to have been neglected and hence there seems to be a daunting amount of work to be done. And "daunting" is not a word I ever want to hear in connection with house renovations.. as it's usually accompanied by this sound..

Ciboure

I liked the area very much - the steep hills, the smell of the sea, the tangled narrow streets, the views of the mighty La Rhune, the dazzling white-painted houses.. and all within a few minutes walk of Saint-Jean-de-Luz. My advice to the couple is to listen to the inner voice.. If it says this is for you, then go with it. If they ignore that voice, it will gnaw away at them for evermore.

2nd June 2011. We went to see "The Tree of Life" this evening which was showing in town in VO (= version originale). If you are intent on seeing it, don't read the reviews first - go and see it with an open mind - no preconceived ideas as to what it's all about.

I didn't offer a judgement on it when we came out - I thought I'd wait - I didn't want to colour Madame's opinion with mine. She said the exact word that I was thinking, "Pretentious..!" Some of it could have been clipped from a number of shampoo commercials.

I've just read the NY Times review and I start to wonder.. Quote: It is like Wordsworth's "Intimations of Immortality" transported into the world of "Leave it to Beaver", an inadequate and perhaps absurd formulation but one that I hope conveys the full measure of my astonishment and admiration.

The Daily Telegraph is less convinced. I still think pretentious. The Movieline summed up how we felt about it: "The “Tree of Life” is a gargantuan work of pretension". 

This is a spectacular shot from the beach at Anglet looking south towards the Trois Couronnes..

4th June 2011. Hot sortie in an octuple/VIII sculler (take your pick!) this morning. Virtually no current on the river.. did 16km (Running total: 740km).

This next clip - Smetana's Ma Vlast - was one of my father's favourite pieces, and it featured in the soundtrack of "The Tree of Life":

146. Feel the need for speed?

26th May 2011. This made me laugh this morning - I read on an aviation web site that "..the hump on the 747 was designed so that the Captain could sit on his wallet." And while we're thinking about that, have a look at this:

It looks spectacular but there's at least 2,000ft separation between the two aircraft.. (that is, provided that both pilots don't cough at the same time!)   

Another milestone date is approaching.. don't ask! My motto is fast becoming Old people live longer.. I worked out in an idle moment that during the course of my 65 orbits around the sun I will have clocked up about 38 billion miles or 60 billion kilometers. Puts my rowing distance into perspective! 

Chocolate lovers.. this one's for you! Coming up is the Bayonne fête son chocolat, Break out those pants with the elasticated waist and get down here!

12 happy km this evening in a mixed VIII sculler.. very nice outing on a breezy river. (Running total: 712km)

There's a storm in an espresso cup going on in France at the moment. In the wake of the latest figures showing that road deaths are on the increase despite the year-on-year pattern of a continual decrease, the government felt compelled to take remedial action to reverse the upward kink in the trend. Fixed radar speed cameras (left) were widely installed across France over the past few years as excess speed has been identified as a major contributory factor to accidents. Motorists were warned of the presence of these cameras by a warning panel (right) approx ½km before the radar camera. The government has decided that the panels are to be removed and this caused a predictable and very vocal outcry. Speaking as one who has been caught speeding via these cameras, I can only say that it's a good thing.. Drivers must change their habits.. We don't need warning signs reminding us not to commit murder so why should speeding be any different? A speed limit is not an invitation to drive at that speed. People used to slow down when they saw the warning sign only to speed up once past the camera. There's also a proliferation in the number of unmarked mobile radar traps.. and of course there are no warning signs for these.  

The latest device to hit the French roadsides are the "radars pédagogiques" (left). The sign warns if your speed is over the limit, and if so, what the penalties are*. In accordance with their fondness for linguistic precision, only France could christen this type of radar a radar pédagogique. Reportedly, over a thousand of these are going to be installed across France. The intention is clear - to warn offending drivers (or automobilistes as they're known in French!) that, one, they are speeding and two, of the penalty they would face were they to be stopped. Knowing the mindset here, I would anticipate that the vast majority of French automobilistes will disregard these warnings once they realise there's no financial penalty or points on licence.

*Sharp-eyed readers will have noted yet another difference between the UK and France. In the UK, you start off with 0 points on your driving licence and points are added up to a maximum of 12 - at which point you take up walking/cycling/Lib Dem politics (topical jokette there!). In France, it's the other way around - you start with 12 points and watch them slowly disappear. Wouldn't it be handy to be able to manage your points total by alternately committing offences in the UK and France to maintain your running total somewhere between the two extremes!  

France has discovered radar speed cameras with a vengeance and so the days of driving at 160kph and more are a thing of the past. The gendarmes are now armed with hand-held radar or laser cameras.. which are impossible to spot. Even if you were to spot one in advance, the chances are that the operator will already have spotted you. The moral is quite clear - don't speed.

I believe the current prolonged outcry in the Left-dominated media over this issue - where the benefits are self-evident - is nothing more than a maskirovka operation designed purely to attack the government and thus avoid the DSK affair from hitting the headlines. If the government didn't take any action, there'd be just as many howls of criticism. 

Thought for the day: There is no pleasure worth foregoing just for an extra three years in the geriatric ward. 

John Mortimer.

Another UK/France difference (this could build into a series!): English book with their titles printed on their spines standing on bookshelves can be read by tilting one's head to the right - whereas in France - yes, you've guessed it - you have to tilt your head to the left. We have several bookcases full of English and French books, so scanning along is a nightmare..

28th May 2011. Went out in a quad sculler this morning on a warm cloudless sunny morning.. Did 12km (Running total 724km). I forgot to mention that I moved the plancha out of the garage and up the steps to the terrace where it will now stay until November probably. I cleaned all the spiders webs and other assorted crud off it, oiled the wood and it looks like new again. I have an idea that Madame is planning to use it today..!

This evening we were out on our sunlit terrace (me still in my shorts and t shirt), with a glass of sangria each and some olives and nuts, playing a game of cards while the dog snoozed on his back with his paws in the air.. There wasn't a cloud in the sky. Now, I ask you, what more do you want?

The answer to that, of course, is that great 3-1 win by a classy Barçelona side against an uninspiring Man Utd in the UEFA Champions League Final. Class vs hype? Only one outcome..

29th May 2011. Since thinning out an overgrown corner of the garden the other afternoon, I've uncovered 2 palm trees (each about 8-9 feet tall) that were being stifled. I've been cutting back old fronds and pulling creepers off the hairy trunks - they're certainly very different to the trees we had in our garden as a kid! Now that they can see the light, I'm hoping that they'll put on a growth spurt. I'm glad we put in a 350 litre (77 gall) rain barrel over the winter - it's come in v handy during the prolonged dry spell we've had here.

In case you've forgotten, Vino Griego is the anthem of Bayonne that we hear each time Aviron Bayonnais (the local rugby team) play at home. And of course, during the Fêtes de Bayonne, it's heard constantly..! And during rugby internationals in Paris, you'll often hear the Basque travelling choir bien arrosé  "giving it large"! By the way, that's the rowing club at 00:14 into the clip..

Heard this today for the first time I think - pity they didn't keep the instrumental part and junk the rest..