Saturday, 2 November 2019

273. "In November you begin to know...

"...how long the winter will be.” - Martha Gellhorn.

29th November. This is a stunning piece I found recently - Albinoni's Oboe Concerto in D minor, Op. 9, no.2 - II. Adagio. Unfortunately this live recording was marred by the thoughtless person  who just had to cough (nothing registers displeasure quite so quickly and succinctly than a good "thwack" from a baseball bat) during that first sustained note from the oboe - beautifully played here by Amy Roberts..
Quick trip out to an out of town garden centre this morning for some Black Friday shopping. It's a surprisingly warm day (16°C / 61°F) - which is just as well because the forecast for the first few days of next week here is for a shivery 2°C.

28th November. Not a good day to be a turkey today.. especially in the US! Happy Thanksgiving to our American readers here.. (still time to dig out those pants with the elasticated waist!)

An unwelcome envelope in the mailbox at midday.. a speeding fine! 90€ for doing 61km/h (38mph) in a 50km/h (30mph) zone. Ouch! 

George Gershwin's "Rhapsody in Blue" is a great favourite of mine that I first heard in childhood - and ever since Woody Allen used it brilliantly to underscore the opening credits of "Manhattan" (1979), it has become synonymous with the incomparable imagery of New York's skyline. Both were made for each other.

Many years ago on a business trip, I routed through New York for a destination further south. I first landed at JFK, from where I changed to New York Helicopter (ceased operating in 1988) for onward travel to Newark airport via LaGuardia. Flying low across Central Park in Manhattan in a Sikorsky S58 was truly unforgettable and a real thrill.. and it was just like it appears at 1:31.

See what you think of this latest mix of Gershwin and NY:
27th November. I treated myself to a bottle of Alain Brumont's Bouscassé Menhir this afternoon. It's a 2006 Madiran and it promises to be quite something. Still deciding whether to open it at Christmas or to lay it down in the cellar for a few more years - (I'm an optimist!)

No prizes for guessing who this is..! If it can't be sniffed or licked he's not interested. It makes for many interesting encounters when we go for a walk.. He gets away with murder - especially with the ladies! 

I received a text message yesterday to say that my carte d'identité had arrived and was waiting for me at the Town Hall in Bayonne. Phew.. that's a weight off my mind. As the Brexit saga grinds slowly on, the acquisition of my new status as a French citizen guarantees that, whatever else may happen, I can remain here.

At the 2017 UK General Election, I received the postal ballot papers only 4 days prior to the Election date and despite returning them lickety-split by post, I was never entirely convinced that my vote had been registered and counted.

After the announcement of the forthcoming UK General Election on 12th December 2019, I asked a friend in the UK if he would act as my proxy and vote on my behalf. When he confirmed that he would, I applied to the town responsible for managing voter registration in my former UK constituency for a postal proxy vote. I arranged for all the necessary papers to be sent to him and he's now primed to vote on my behalf on 12th December.

On returning home yesterday after a shopping trip in Spain, I was amazed to find a complete postal voting pack-up waiting for me in our mail box.. I phoned the Electoral Services office in the UK and they seemed blissfully unaware that I was now equipped with the means to vote twice. How hard can it be to manage a list of voters such that vote duplication does not occur? (How did we ever run an Empire? Ye gods..)   

As things stand, this will probably be the final UK General Election in which I will ever vote. It's a little-known fact of expat life that a registered elector loses the right to vote in UK elections after living outside the country for 15 years. I served in my country's military for almost 30 years and the government insists that my pension must be taxed in the UK - and yet, in 3 years time, I will be disenfranchised by my own country. If I am to be taxed in the UK, I should have the right to vote on how tax revenue is collected and disbursed. (How other countries manage the right of expats to vote in their country of origin). 

The "No Taxation without Representation" mantra was heard loud and clear during the rebellion in the American colonies pre-1776 - and it was a major causal factor of the American War of Independence (1775-1783). It seems that 250 years later that this particular lesson has yet to sink in with the legions of shiny trouser'd civil servants in Whitehall who make the rules.

24th November. Just when I was beginning to think that perhaps we'd seen the last of the rain, the skies opened in the last half hour and we had a torrential downpour. The lunchtime news featured the flooding experienced in south east France in the Var and the Alpes Maritimes.

Strong winds over the last couple of days have stripped all the leaves from the trees in the garden, especially from our red maple. The forecast was for winds of around 100km/h and it certainly felt like every bit of that when I took the pooch out.

On the bright side, the Beaujolais nouveau is in the shops..! Madame brought home a few bottles of George Duboeuf's Beaujolais nouveau - and we tried some on Friday evening with the wood burner providing us with a toasty heat. Mmmmm! Think they'd call this a hygge moment in Denmark.

19th November. "You Couldn't Make It Up" Department! General Georgelin, the French army general overseeing the reconstruction of Notre Dame, has fallen out with the architect in a disagreement over the spire (below) put in place by Viollet-le-Duc in the mid-19th century that was destroyed in the fire this year. Predictably, General Georgelin agrees with President Macron (no surprises there) that the replacement should be contemporary in design, in opposition to the vision of Philippe Villeneuve, the project's architect. In a meeting over the construction General Georgelin prompted gasps by saying that Mr Villeneuve should “shut his mouth”. (More here)

I think the architect understands exactly what is required of him. He stated unequivocally in mid-October that if he is allowed to restore the building to the condition it was in before the fire, then he will continue in post. If, however, a "contemporary" arrow is added to the spire (in accordance with President Macron's wishes) then someone else can take over. I imagine that neither President Macron nor General Georgelin are remotely qualified to make an artistic judgement on a building of such global renown and significance. Why don't they add a 'contemporary' red nose to the Mona Lisa while they're at it?

18th November. As it's been a dry day so far today here's a little treat for you - the sublime opening minutes of the 3rd Movement (Adagio molto e cantabile) of Beethoven's Symphony No 9 in D minor, played here by the NHK Symphony conducted by Herbert Blomstedt:
Compare this with Daniel Barenboim's interpretation of the 3rd Movement with the West-Eastern Divan Orchestra.

16th November. I wouldn't be at all surprised if Bayonne was soon declared to be at risk of flooding. After a prolonged period of rain (since the beginning of the month) the ground is absolutely waterlogged and so any further rainfall just runs off.

The confluence of both the Adour and the Nive is in the centre of town (right) and the area most at risk in my (non-expert) opinion is where the Nive has been constricted (here) to flow through town. There are other rivers that feed into the Adour such as the Gave - and here are a couple of disturbing short clips (here and here) of the Gave from a few years ago - and one from the Nive. These are all old videos but we can't be far from these water levels.

As the Adour and the Nive are both tidal in Bayonne, it doesn't require too much imagination to see the potential for flooding. 

15th November. During the course of my first visit to the Pays Basque (almost 30 years ago) I was struck by the shape and the structure of the Pyrenees. The mountains are generally steep-sided with jagged summits - and the contorted underlying strata is often visible. It's clear that the Pyrenees are the result of severe forces of Nature at work. This is from Wiki: "The chain's present configuration is due to the collision between the microcontinent Iberia and the southwestern promontory of the European Plate (i.e. Southern France)". Put simply, the Pyrenees owe their distinctive formation to a collision between Spain and south west France.

(Had a phone call from a friend today to tell us that "there was snow on them thar hills!")
13th November. I'm not making a comment either way about the story that follows.. (you'll see why!)

Yesterday we were invited out for lunch by a friend.. and during it, one of the ladies present was telling us that she'd checked the oil level in her car engine by looking at the dipstick and she was shocked to find it was absolutely bone dry.

She drove to the dealership and told her story - and when the man checked, he found that the dipstick hadn't been replaced in its guide - it had merely been jammed in somehow around the engine.

He asked her where she had been putting the dipstick and she showed him how she stuck it down the side of the engine so that it held firm..

Laugh? I almost did..☺! (but I know my place!)

You should be able to see (& hear) live images of the beach (of dog walking fame!) at Anglet..

9th November. 8.15pm: I've just closed all the west-facing shutters at the back of the house (and got soaked in the process!) as driving rain continues to blow in from the bay. I think we'll start to see some flooding around the town centre once the levels of the Adour and the Nive start to rise. We're up on a hill here so I don't anticipate any problems.

I opened the back door at around 4am this morning to let the pooch out for a leg stretch - but all I could hear was the sound of water running in the gutters - it was yet another downpour. He went out with the greatest of reluctance - and was back within seconds! (as long as he's happy etc etc)

Here's an artist's rendition of one of our favourite places for an apéro and a spot of people-watching in summer - the tree-shaded place Louis XIV at Saint-Jean-de-Luz:
la place Louis XIV,
Saint-Jean-de-Luz
However, once the branches of the platanes are cut back in October, the square loses a good deal of its charm and looks very bare. 
Here's a museum that is sure to be a great success - the newly-opened International City of Gastronomy at Lyon.. (here) and unlike any other museum in the world, you can actually eat the exhibits! 'Look but don't touch' is the rule at most museums, but not at this one - instead visitors are encouraged to taste the exhibits. Exhibits will include menus, recipes, films and photographs. Plus there will be a range of interactive exhibits like the Atlas of Gastronomy, a touch-screen, wall-high map where visitors can learn about food from around the world. On top of this, visitors will have the opportunity to take part in a series of tasting sessions and culinary workshops in which audience participation is encouraged. The food visitors can taste here will rarely be repeated. There will be different themes on different days ranging from food from a specific international country to the speciality dishes of certain local chefs. Around 300,000 visitors are expected each year at the International City of Gastronomy. The location of the museum is no coincidence as Lyon has long been considered the heartland of French food. The city and its surrounds are home to 39,000 farms and 80 distinct wines are made in the region.  

Speaking about the opening of the the Cité Internationale de la Gastronomie, the president of Lyon Métropole, David Kimelfeld, said: 'Lyon’s gastronomy, a jewel in the crown of the French art of living, recognized as part of the Unesco World Heritage, is integral to the city’s identity and part of its universal appeal and reputation. 'The Cité Internationale de la Gastronomie will be its emblem, a showcase for the entire world to see and enjoy.' The museum will be open every day from 10 am to 7 pm, Sunday to Friday, and from 10 am to 10 pm on Saturdays. The majority of the third floor of the attraction has been dedicated to these events. The recently opened Cité Internationale de la Gastronomie (International City of Gastronomy) in Lyon, France, aims to immerse visitors in the world of both French and global gastronomy using all five senses.

Visitors to the attraction, housed inside the restored Grand Hôtel-Dieu, a former hospital, will have the chance to digest information about everything from how food has evolved through history to setting an attractive dinner table, and from the lives and culinary legacies of Lyon's most revered chefs to utensils used in kitchens around the world.

8th November. Further to my question yesterday about the "One, two, buckle my shoe" rhyme, I'm advised that it continues: "Seven eight, open the gate; Nine ten, do it again". This doesn't ring any bells with me. I'm wondering if there were regional variations to it?

We had a minor domestic event to celebrate today but as it was raining chiens et chats (cats and dogs!), walking to a restaurant in Bayonne was a non-starter. Instead, we headed off to Ascain for lunch at Restaurant Larralde, one of our "bankers" (ie, always a pleasure). When we arrived there, we were delighted to see that they were featuring a set menu with an "Autumn" theme.. (this usually means game: venison, wild boar, wood pigeon etc).

Where to find Irouléguy
We decided on an omelette aux cèpes (wild mushrooms) to start with - then a healthy portion of wild boar served with a red wine reduction.. then a variety of brebis cheeses - and then desserts (ouf!) - and coffee.. followed by a slow waddle back to the car - accompanied by the sound of creaking trousers!

Madame enjoyed a generous glass of Pacherenc sweet white wine as an apéro (me - a dry Jurançon white) after which we switched to our old friend - a velvety Irouléguy Gorri d'Ansa red*.

We won't be eating this evening!

* I know what you're thinking but we only had a glass each of it! (Honestly)

There's an excellent feature on Irouléguy wine here. The reds are the ones to try in my opinion - especially Gorri d'Ansa. Irouléguy wines can be sourced in the UK (with Google's help) but sadly with a hefty and unjustifiable mark-up.

The Cave d'Irouléguy is well worth a trip to carry out comparative side-by-side tastings of Irouléguy - without any pressure to buy. You'll find it in the heart of the Basque Country, in the village of Saint-Etienne-de-Baïgorry. And about 300 yards away to the east, you'll find the Fabrique Maison Petricorena - where you can stock up on all sorts of Basque products - including the unobtainium-in-the-UK Sauce Basque (forte - with the red top). It's highly addictive.

I'd recommend trying to search out Jurançon white wherever you are - the dry and sweet varieties are both worth the effort. As for the marketing claims given in the link, clearly neither of us are drinking enough of it! There's a very readable article here on the wines of Jurançon. I think a bottle or two of the sweet would be especially well received at Christmas. 

Whoever is in charge of turning the rain on, I wish he/she would bear in mind that there's an OFF position as well as ON! We've had what seems like a week of downpours, interspersed with short periods of grace that are just long enough to tempt me into making a quick dash out with the dog before turning the rain tap fully on again when I'm far from home..!

7th November. At lunchtime, for some reason or another (two stray neurons colliding after a good lunch?!), I suddenly came out with "One, two, buckle my shoe..".. There was a pause - as a few more lines of the old nursery rhyme were remembered that I hadn't heard for decades - and then this came out: "Three, four, knock at the door.. Five, six, pick up sticks...". I tried to dig deep for the rest.. but I couldn't dredge up any more. If you can finish it off (without Googling(!)), send me the rest via the comment feature at the end of the post. Very odd.. I haven't heard that for years

The vast majority of the visitors to the Pays Basque generally stick close to the coast and often ignore - or simply forget - the rural interior. For me however, the interior has a special magic all of its own that isn't to be found on the glittering coast. Once you've experienced the pleasure of being up high on those magnificent and largely empty hills, with breathtaking vistas all around, the hills fading to blue as they march away into the distance, you'll return time and time again to gaze perhaps at an isolated Basque farmhouse, with its white-washed walls dazzling in the sun, perched high on a hilltop or tucked into the side of a valley - always with that same thought - what would it be like to live there?

Madame - ever-practical - is a "townie" - whereas my instincts would, if left to my own devices, lead me unerringly towards a Basque house on a hill somewhere! (I'm still not totally reconciled to living in town - even though the advantages of doing so are self-evident)

This video explores the interior of the Pays Basque and it starts with a visit to Saint-Martin-d'Arrossa (about 45 mins from Pipérade Towers) and the Massif de Larla:
5th November. Just as well there's no Bonfire Night here in France.. you'd need an industrial-strength blow torch or thermal lance to start your mountain of thoroughly soaked wood.. We've had rain and still more rain (and wind) here - and the avenue is adrift with piles of wet leaves. I shudder to think what it must be like up in the mountains.. When we did our annual Comet weekend in 2017, we enjoyed similar weather - horizontal wind-blown rain - up on the mountains - and it tested our communal resolve to the limit.

2020 Vauxhall Brexit
4th November. The Labour Party is proud to announce that it has a new sponsor for the 2019 General Election - Vauxhall - and that they have just launched a new model - the Vauxhall Brexit. The manufacturer has donated a fleet of them to the Labour Party to help the candidates travel around their potential constituencies. The Brexit was deemed to be a perfect fit for the Labour Party because it looks like it's heading in one direction, but when it moves it actually goes in another - and ultimately it has no idea where it will end up!!

Health Warning: Feel free to skip this next section if you're not a UK voter. The UK is holding a General Election on Thursday, 12th December - but - you're unsure who to vote for? Here's a refresher to remind you of what we've been told since the outcome of the 2016 Referendum. If you voted Leave because you wanted to sever our links with the European Union, then be very wary of the Brexit 'deal' that's being dangled in front of our noses..

When it comes to the day in question, try and bear in mind the following statements by the "Great and the Good" of Westminster and then vote instead for what you actually believe in - what you voted for in 2016 - as opposed to so-called "tactical voting", ie, voting for one party to keep another party out. Remember which party* tried to prevent Brexit from happening by every means, trick and device open to MPs and their Civil Servants. (* Conservative, Labour, Lib Dem and SNP)
Since the 2016 Referendum, we've witnessed the greatest outbreak of parliamentary anarchy in the UK that I can remember - and my memory goes back to Suez.

We who voted Leave have been repeatedly characterised by Remainers as racist, bigoted, intolerant, provincial, xenophobic, uneducated Little Englanders who are nostalgic for Empire.. and I'm sure there are a few more epithets that I've forgotten. I can only speak for myself - I love France and Europe - it's the undemocratic and unaccountable European Union that's been forced on the people of Europe by a politically motivated élite that I take exception to. I was brought up to believe that those who indulge in ad hominem attacks have lost the argument. As I've written before here, Brexit is all about returning sovereignty to the UK - everything else flows down from that.

Here's the full text of the Withdrawal Agreement. If it is passed into law, Boris Johnson's Treaty will mean:
  • Britain remains under EU rules but with no vote, no voice, no veto. During the Withdrawal Agreement’s extendable ‘transition period’ (which lasts until at least the end of 2020 and almost certainly years longer), we won’t withdraw from the EU at all but become non-voting members. We will still be trapped in the EU customs union and single market, subject to all existing EU laws and any punitive new ones they might pass (Articles 4.1, 4.2, 6, 41, 95.1, 127). And we’ll be under the jurisdiction of the European Court of Justice (ECJ) (Arts 4.4, 4.5, 86, 87, 89, 95.3, 131, 158, 163). The difference is we won’t have any say (Arts 7.1, 34). 
  • EU judges can still override our laws. The ECJ – a foreign court – governs the Treaty and EU law takes precedence. Future British parliaments will be bound to obey ECJ rulings, and UK judges will be obliged to overturn laws passed by our Parliament if the ECJ says they don’t comply with the Treaty or the EU laws it enables (Articles 4.4, 4.5, 86, 87, 89, 95.3, 131, 158, 163). In some cases, the ECJ will rule for years even after the transition ends. 
  • We won’t control our fishing. The dreadful Common Fisheries Policy continues in UK waters during the extendable transition period, but we will have no say in it (Article 130). That means huge foreign trawlers plundering our waters at the expense of our coastal communities. After the transition, the Political Declaration (PD) signs us up to sharing ‘access to water and quota shares’ (PD, paragraph 73) – which equals continued EU exploitation of UK fishing grounds. 
  • We still won’t be free to trade as we see fit. Boris boasts of leaving the EU customs union. Yet the Political Declaration states any future free trade agreement with the EU must ensure ‘a level playing field’ (PD, paragraph 17, 77) and ‘deep regulatory and customs cooperation’ (para 21). This means sticking to EU rules. It will be hard for the UK to reduce tariff barriers to cut the cost of living and make trade deals with other nations. The PD also requires we pursue ‘ambitious customs objectives that are in line with the Parties’ objectives and principles’ (para 22) – another restrictive EU customs union in all but name. 
  • We won’t have control of our tax or state aid policies. EU law applies to the UK during the transition period (WA, Article 127), and beyond that the Political Declaration obliges the UK to adopt EU rules on state aid rules and ‘relevant tax matters’ (PD, para 77). This all means we can’t change tax rates to be more competitive and can’t assist a strategic industry such as British Steel. 
  • Britain can’t pursue an independent foreign policy. The Treaty restricts UK sovereignty by preventing us taking ‘any action likely to conflict with or impede’ EU foreign policy (Article 129.6) – despite having no say in policy making. The UK will be signed up to all EU treaties, including new ones, throughout the transition period, and must ‘refrain… from any action… which is likely to be prejudicial’ to EU interests within international organisations such as the United Nations Security Council and the WTO (Art 129 points 1 and 3). 
  • Britain can’t pursue an independent defence policy. The Political Declaration commits us to security integration through the European Defence Agency and the European Defence Fund (PD, paragraph 102(c)). We will fund the EU’s military plans during the transition period at least, and British troops in EU battlegroups will be under foreign command (WA Articles 128.2, 129.7, 156, 157). 
  • The United Kingdom will be divided. The Treaty creates a de facto customs and regulatory border in the Irish Sea between Northern Ireland and Britain. Goods moving between NI and Britain will be checked. Citizens living in NI would effectively be staying in the EU, without any say in their laws, for at least four years after the transition and quite possibly forever. In other words, the UK gives up part of its sovereign territory —for what? (“Backstop” Protocol Articles 5 and 6.2). 
  • We pay the EU billions and get nothing in return. The Treaty commits us to pay a sum to be decided by the EU (WA, Part Five). The £39bn payment demanded is likely to be just the start, with billions more to follow. 
  • And we’ll be trapped by the Political Declaration. The problems won’t end with the transition period. Don’t be fooled just because the Political Declaration on future relations is not legally binding. Article 184 of the Withdrawal Agreement requires us to use ‘best endeavours, in good faith’ to negotiate a future deal in line with the PD. Any breach of this duty will see the EU haul Britain before an arbitration panel – half EU appointees, half pro-EU judges from the UK. And the panel must defer to the European court on anything concerning EU Law. If they rule that a UK law goes against the Political Declaration, UK courts will have to overturn that law (WA, Articles 170-175). The Political Declaration is a trap from which there is no plausible escape. 
Can any Brexiteer inclined to support this Treaty honestly say that it amounts to a proper Brexit? We deserve better than this. A Clean-Break Brexit remains the best deal for Britain. We need a General Election for a Leaver alliance to win a big majority and make Brexit a reality.

There's only one party committed to taking the UK out of the EU with no "deals" - just out - and that's the Brexit Party and fortunately Nigel Farage has chosen to contest and fight every seat with a Brexit Party candidate. He's doing this to ensure that as many of the electorate as possible will have a Brexit Party candidate to vote for - a candidate from the only party committed to leaving the EU with no strings attached. It's that simple. 

3rd November. If you're not familiar with the great Chet Baker, listen to his understated trumpet playing - described as "minimalist eloquence"..

The squally rains sweeping through here today from the west put me in mind of the atmospheric opening scenes of Woody Allen's 2011 film "Midnight in Paris" - a well-chosen montage of Parisian scenes accompanied as always in Allen's films by a great jazz track - in this case, it's Sidney Bechet with his "Si Tu Vois Ma Mère"..
We're thinking of going up there sometime before Christmas for a few days.. As in visiting London, I think about 3 days-worth will be my limit! (Too crowded for my liking)

I woke up in the middle of the night to the sound of strong winds as they howled around the house. Every now and again, I'd swear I could feel the house shudder as it was buffeted by a sudden gust of wind. The forecast last night was for onshore winds of 140km/h (90mph) and they sounded every bit of that. I'll go down to the beach this morning to take a look what's going on down there.. the waves should be spectacular.

This morning the garden and the avenue were covered with twigs and ragged and torn leaves.. there were some almost a foot across that were from platanes (plane trees).. I took the dawg down to the beach mid-morning and the grey sea was a mass of churning explosions of foam whipped up by the strong winds. I sympathise with anyone finding themselves at sea, especially in the Bay of Biscay, on a day like today.

I must congratulate the South African Springboks for their stunning victory in the 2019 Rugby World Cup Final.. Despite England having played what many observers said was the perfect game against New Zealand last Saturday, clearly the 'Boks hadn't read the script because they shot out of the blocks playing their devastating blend of direct power rugby and speed that England simply couldn't cope with. The men in white were second best all over the pitch - and this was especially evident in the scrum where the mighty Boks just pushed them aside. A well deserved win by the Boks. England can have no complaints. 
2nd November. There are still several places on my "To Do" list - I mentioned a day or two ago the church of San Juan de Gaztelugatxe set high up on a rocky outcrop on the north coast of Spain. To that could be added the Café Iruña at Pamplona.. Here's a Flash Mob having an "impromptu" sing in the Café Iruña - it looks somewhat staged to me - but still fun. This is yet another of Ernest H's hideaways! Enough said. This is exactly the sort of café in the grand style that I wish we had nearby:
Then there's the Flying Boat Museum at Biscarosse (Le Musée de l'Hydraviation de Biscarosse) - this has been gathering dust on my "to do" list for years. Photos here.

There's also the Guggenheim at Bilbao.. a visit that's difficult to manage with the dog. Still trying to work out how best to do it. Another one is the suspension bridge at Holzarte.. There are more!

Later this morning: How wrong could I be!!! I'll stick to weather forecasting from now on..☺

8am. The day of the 2019 Rugby World Cup Final in Japan.. Who's going to emerge with the win? What a question..! If I was a betting man I'd stake the house on England. They really impressed in the match against the current world champions New Zealand (or, as French TV commentators have it, "les Nouvelles Zeds"). They meet South Africa's Springboks in the final but I honestly don't see that South Africa have the weapons in their armoury to trouble England. If England do win today, they will have beaten in this RWC all the giants of the southern hemisphere: Argentina, Australia, New Zealand and South Africa - Wales and France having both dodged the bullet.

By the end of the morning, this forecast will be proven to be either fine judgement on my behalf - or, as seen by the usual England haters, as yet another example of English arrogance! We'll see! Kick-off is in 2 hours..   

1st November. Living in this blessèd corner of France, winters usually only have one attribute - rain! - but when it's not raining, there are often burning blue skies to keep the spirits up. I'll be glad when they make an appearance!

Thursday, 3 October 2019

272. Tiptoeing into Autumn

31st October. Even though our first visit to this region was back in 1991, and despite having lived here for 12 years, there are still many places we have yet to visit. The church of San Juan de Gaztelugatxe is one such place. Perched high up on a rock just off the coast to the east of Bilbao, it has a most spectacular location, similar to this one in Greece..
30th October. I was outside in the garden in the wee small hours a couple of days ago as the dog had been agitating to be let out.. when suddenly I heard the raucous sounds of a large formation of grues cendrées (common cranes) as they flew directly overhead on their southern migratory route to their wintering grounds. 
As it wasn't a moonlit night, I couldn't see them. I was surprised that they were flying at night. Half an hour later, I heard that same distinctive sound as another formation flew overhead. 

29th October. I discovered at the dentists this morning that my Carte Vitale no longer works. It was suggested that I went along to a Pharmacie and asked them to re-initialise it. That failed as well, so later on in the afternoon I went alone to the strikingly modern Social Security (CPAM) building (above) on the banks of the Adour. A few years ago, I would not have been able to do this but now I feel reasonably confident of my ability to: a. explain what I want in French and b. to understand the reply. (Not as easy as you might think!) More on the Carte Vitale here.

Paëlla at chez Pantxua
We went to Socoa yesterday to see what our longtime favourite restaurant was offering for New Year's Eve. We were surprised to learn that they had no specific plans made for a set fixed price menu on that night - it would only be à la carte - nor was anything planned to perk up the ambiance. As prices there have slowly been creeping up over the years we reluctantly decided that we'd have to give it a miss - but, before we left, we decided to treat ourselves to a paëlla (left), one of their specialities, and as it was warm, we ate outside in the sun. An hour and a half later, we exited stage left, riding very low in the water.. 

We then set off under blue skies and temperatures in the mid-20s to Ascain via a tangle of country lanes lined with autumnal trees to talk to the owners of another old favourite establishment who have posted a mouth-watering set menu for 31st December on their site. 

After which, we headed off to Ustaritz for a 'shoppex' - and then, as driving through the country lanes resplendent in golds, russets and burnt oranges was so pleasant, we decided to make an impromptu visit to the owners of the gîte at nearby Villefranque where we stayed for 5 months when we arrived here in September 2007 (sounds a long time ago now). 

First though, we picked up a gâteau basque à la crême (left) - and a bottle of honey-coloured Jurançon doux (right) for our former hosts. As we drove up to their farmhouse, it was strange to think that 12 years had somehow elapsed since we arrived here in our rented van without a home to either move into - or to return to. We sat outside in the late afternoon sun - surrounded by yapping dogs (Nutty was hooligan-in-chief) - talking to two of the nicest people you could ever wish to meet. They'd sold all their livestock - their cattle (Blonde d'Acquitaine), their pigs, their rabbits and their ducks - their chickens had fallen victim to foxes - and now they live contentedly in retirement in their valley surrounded by family.    

Lac Marion
27th October. We went for a walk around Lac Marion this afternoon - it's a real haven of greenery with a lake - far enough from the madding crowd - and, surprisingly, it's set in the suburbs of Biarritz. You'd never guess. Worth a visit if you don't know it.

South Africa's Springboks earned the right to a place in the 2019 Rugby World Cup Final by beating Wales this morning 19-16 in an attritional match that, let's be honest, was far from being easy on the eye. Wales will now take on New Zealand in a play-off for 3rd place on 1st November with the England - South Africa final taking place the following day. I'm taking nothing for granted - Eddie Jones' England side won through in their semi-final in grand style against the current world champions - but the real test - the only one that matters - comes next Saturday.

26th October. In watching the replay of the match, I noticed that Maro Itoje had been awarded Man of the Match.. While I'm a big fan of his, that award could have been given to at least half a dozen of the men in white, if not all of them. What a match, what a match though.. So - as a tribute to Maro Itoje's truly stand-out performance against top flight opposition, here are a few of his best moments from the match:
Down to the beach with the pooch for some fresh air this afternoon.. and with the temperature parked at 27°, it was no surprise to see the half term holiday crowds down there taking advantage of the last days of summer. What a great day in many respects!
England's riposte to the NZ Haka that cost them a £2,000 fine* (!) 

Wow! WOW! What an outstanding performance by a relentless England team who dominated New Zealand in every aspect of the game. Even before the whistle, they challenged New Zealand's legendary Haka (read here!) before following that up with an 80 minute monstering of the Kiwis. I think this will be remembered as England's greatest ever performance. It was worthy of a Final.

* Am I the only one who thinks a £2,000 is ludicrous? For what? 

Farrell facing the Haka
England deservedly went ahead at 1min 36secs via Manu Tuilagi's try (right). The final score 19-7 flattered the Kiwis - they were always on the back foot and their only try came from a gift-wrapped present from Jamie George (the result of an overthrow that was a few months early for Christmas!). England had two tries disallowed - the first was rightly chalked off for crossing but I thought the TMO decision to disallow the second 'try' by Youngs was debatable. The TMO claimed that the ball had gone forward in the preceding maul - I've seen the footage and I think it's open to interpretation. I think on another day that try might/would have stood. England also missed a drop goal and 1 or 2 penalties (can't remember now). Overall though, it was a magnificent performance by all involved.. and one that will be remembered - and replayed (in this house at least) - for many years to come. Impossible to pick a Man of the Match.
8am: Today's the day! The first of the 2019 Rugby World Cup semi-finals - between New Zealand and England - kicks off in about 2 hours time. I think the current England squad represents the best chance we've had of winning against the All Blacks for some years. It's difficult to see weaknesses - except perhaps for a predilection for coughing up penalties and Ben Youngs' liking for box kicking - and against a team like New Zealand, these two aspects could prove costly. If England can keep the penalty count low, I think they're in with a good chance of winning. They have a powerful tight five, a devastating back row (Tom Curry, Billy Vunipola and Sam Underhill), quick powerful backs and two of the game's best tactical kickers in George Ford and Owen Farrell. Add in the talent from the bench and if that's not a winning team, I don't know what is. 

The other semi-final sees a heavyweight contest between South Africa's Springboks and Wales. This is another difficult match to predict but as I don't have a dog in this fight, I think South Africa will just shade it. As Wales squeaked home by 1 point against a 14 man French side last weekend, I think the Boks will prove too strong for them. 

23rd October. Here's another piece that our choir will be reprising in 2 concerts planned for late Spring next year to mark our leader's final season before he retires - it's Vivaldi's Magnificat RV610 - and this is a fine interpretation of it by the English Chamber Orchestra and the John Alldis Choir conducted by Vittorio Negri in 1979:

I'm not particularly a fan of sacred music - I never listen to it at home - but it's difficult to describe the tingle that comes during a concert when 60+ choristers combine to sing in four part harmony some demanding passages of music after a year's-worth of practising. When it goes well, it's very rewarding and the sense of achievement far outweighs the pain of endless practices.  

21st October. How is it that we've ended up with politicians like these - oozing insincerity from every pore? We are forever being told today by those who wish us to remain in the EU that we (the poor dumb electorate) were lied to repeatedly by the Leave campaign from 2016 onwards  - but this video shows the reality. Watch this and weep for the country..

I imagine that all those connected with French rugby will still be seething this morning at Sébastien Vahaamahina who committed an inexcusable foul - a 'red-cardable' offence - 8 minutes into the second half of their quarter final match with Wales and got himself sent off. No excuses. France are now on their way home. Wales squeaked home 20-19 courtesy of a Ross Moriarty try in the 74th minute against a 14 man France.

In the other quarter final, the South Africa's Springboks overcame Japan's Brave Blossoms by 26-3. Japan made a lot of friends around the world with their all-action style, coached by former All Black Jamie Joseph.

19th October. What a day for England rugby..! It was Day One of the RWC Quarter Finals and England faced Australia. (Reader(s) in Australia look away now!) It was probably their best performance ever against the Wallabies as it finished up 40-16, with England scoring 4 tries to Australia's one. In the semi-final, England will meet New Zealand (who won their match with Ireland 46-14) in what should be a cracking match.
Tomorrow morning, Wales take on France and South Africa play Japan. It hurts me to say this but I think Wales are capable of reaching the Final. (Edited to add: On reflection, I think Wales have two chances of beating the Springboks: fat chance and no chance)

18th October. A big weekend of World Cup rugby coming up: first, England v Australia tomorrow morning - followed by New Zealand v Ireland.. then on Sunday, it's Wales v France and South Africa v Japan.

We went to the Town Hall earlier today to pick up my new carte d'identité - but after having signed yet more paperwork I was told it should be ready to collect in the week before Christmas! Who said this: “Though the mills of God grind slowly, yet they grind exceeding small; Though with patience He stands waiting, with exactness grinds He all.” Answer at the foot of this post.

17th October. Good to see that Ye Olde Pounde Sterling is creeping back up again from almost parity with the euro to more welcome rates of exchange (at least for me!). When we lived in the UK, the exchange rate was of passing interest - a footnote to the day's news just ahead of the weather - but since moving here, given that most of our pensions are in £ sterling, it's become of prime importance to us.

16th October. I was in Oloron-Sainte-Marie last week for a 2 day symposium on Trans-Pyrenean evasion networks during WWII. On the return I visited the wartime detention camp at Gurs. While little evidence remained of this shameful and tragic episode perpetrated by the Vichy government, it didn't need much imagination to realise the picture the horrors of life there for those judged to be "undesirables".

We were in Saint-Jean-de-Luz this morning for some shopping and there were quite a few people swimming - but what a pleasure to not have to circle around like a vulture looking for a parking space..!

Nutty, our larger-than-life cocker spaniel, is developing new habits. In addition to his obsession with lizards in our garden, he now checks under every car in the avenue as he trots by - in case there's a cat there. Neither of us have ever encouraged him to chase cats but he hasn't needed any prompting in that direction. What's next I wonder?! 

Here's the Tour de France route for 2020 - great graphics by the way - not much planned for the Pyrenees:

8th October. It was raining in Bayonne this evening when we went out to watch Woody Allen's "A Rainy Day in New York". It's billed as a romantic comedy but in my opinion, it's 99% free of both romance and comedy. In the interest of fairness, I should add that a chap a few seats away from me was laughing out loud in the exaggerated manner of a theatre audience in London's West End (ie, to encourage the cast) while my facial muscles remained unloved. It's probably the least engaging film Woody Allen has ever directed and I honestly felt that I could have got up and gone home at any moment during the screening and I'd have been in no danger of missing anything.

Top tip: still tempted to go and watch it? Resist the impulse at all costs. Tidy your sock drawer instead. Sweep out the garage. Put your CDs in order. Throw out all the books that you'll never read again. I should add I've been a longtime Woody Allen fan but this film is no more than a potboiler containing much recycled material. Apart from some good old American standards on the soundtrack, this gets my 37 carat dross alert!) 

I've got a better idea - draw the curtains / drapes / close the shutters / lower the blinds / whatever works wherever you are - light the fire - then pour a couple of Glenmorangies - one for your squeeze and one for yourself - and play this.

This is a piece we started learning last night for our choir leader's final season - Puccini's Requiem:

5th October. England had a bruising encounter with Argentina earlier today in the Japan RWC - and came away with a 39-10 win against a 14 man Argentine side after Tomás Lavanini had been red-carded for a high tackle on Owen Farrell in the 17th minute.

One to watch in next Saturday's Crunch match with France - scrum-half Baptiste Serin.. he's a quick-witted player with lots of tricks up his sleeve. I'm sure Messrs Underhill and Curry will keep a close eye on him.

4th October. I've been sparing you from having to read any more of the endless poisonous discussions involving Brexit - as they could, for the most part, be summed up by this quotation from "Macbeth":
it is a tale
Told by an idiot, full of sound and fury,
Signifying nothing.
.. and there's no shortage of idiots! However, I came across this extract earlier from a very worthwhile article by Ben Knight, who worked as a civil servant at the Department for Exiting the European Union between 2017 and 2019. These two paragraphs neatly sums up my reasons for voting Leave. In my view, Brexit is not about immigration, the proposed EU army, the economy, the Euro or any of it - these elements all come under the heading of detail. The fundamental issue at stake is that the majority of the electorate wish to restore parliamentary sovereignty to the UK - because from that, everything else flows - and it's clearly stated below:
"Brexit means the end of the jurisdiction of the European Court of Justice and of EU law, returning sovereignty to Britain. It is a fundamental principle of democracy that rulers should be chosen by the ruled; but no voter elects the Presidents of the European Parliament, Commission or Council, nor any one of the European Union’s 20 Vice Presidents. The only elected organ of the Union, the Parliament, has no powers to initiate legislation and only limited powers to scrutinise the Commission".
"The extension of Qualified Majority Voting means that Britain’s voice can be routinely overruled, and that the British people can be subject to laws for which not a single British individual has voted. This is plainly an aberration and an assault upon the core tenets of basic political rights. No: the only legitimate form of governance is one in which those with the power to make laws are directly accountable to every individual to whom those laws apply. The restoration of full parliamentary sovereignty in the United Kingdom will mean that our 650 MPs, each of whom we directly elect, are solely responsible for deciding the laws of the land".
His words deserve to be carved in stone. Given the above, I'm at a total loss to understand how and why anyone could vote Remain. I know full well that many of the current crop of numpties and windbags-in-aspic we have using up valuable oxygen in the House of Commons are beyond redemption but I think the UK electorate will make their feelings known loud and clear at the upcoming General Election on Thursday, 12th December. I hope that those of them who have spent the last 2-3 years throwing up all kinds of procedural devices to block Brexit will soon be spending far more time with their families or shouting at the traffic from the nearest bus shelter.  

There's a grassed area (wouldn't call it a lawn) in front of the Palais de Justice (Law Courts) not far from here. There are two great horse chestnut trees on it and beneath them is a carpet of leaves the colour of burnt copper and enough conkers to supply the needs of at least a hundred schoolboys. Sadly, conkers can't be eaten.

There are some oddly-named houses on my dog-walking route as well - one in particular always has me wondering why would someone name their house "Malgré tout"? According to Google, this has a variety of meanings in French including: 'nevertheless', 'nonetheless', 'even so', 'notwithstanding', 'all the same', and 'despite everything'. I remembered from my schoolboy French that malgré tout means 'despite all' and it's the only one that makes any kind of sense to me - but even then, it's an odd name for a house. There's another house that's simply called 'Christmas'.

House names in the UK tending to be more descriptive (see here) although 'Dunroamin' and the pessimistic 'Journey's End' were once fashionable.

People sometimes have asked me if I miss certain things or tastes from England - and I always have told them that there was only one that sprang readily to mind - and that was Stone's Ginger Wine (essential for making a Whisky Mac). I wrote about it here back in 2012.

In the lead-up to the recent Comet Line weekend in the Pays Basque, an English friend who was planning to attend kindly asked me in advance if there was anything he could bring me. Well, what else could I say! I hoped he might be able to slip a bottle into his suitcase.. but when he arrived, I was bowled over to find that he'd brought me a box of six! What a star!

Then, a few months ago, we were invited round to a neighbours for drinks and I was asked the same question. I suddenly remembered one day that a favourite breakfast used to consist of cereal plus a few (canned) grapefruit segments plus cold milk.. Whenever I remembered to, I'd look in any supermarket I was in to see if I could find them anywhere before finally realising that canned grapefruit segments simply don't exist in France. So that was my answer to the question.

Yesterday, we invited them here for supper as they'd just returned from a month away in the north of France and the UK (and you can guess what's coming next!). They passed me a heavy carrier bag containing several big cans of you-know-what..

So now, all my needs have been met for the forseeable future! (I must have perfected my whining technique!)

3rd October. Some more from the "I don't believe it" Dept.. I was returning from taking the pooch for a run through the calm of the beautiful woods at nearby Pignada this morning when two things caught my eye.
Pignada

The first was a council truck with a high lift platform on the back and they were busy attaching the Christmas decorations - yes, the Christmas decorations! - high up on a lamp-post. This must be the earliest in Europe - but feel free to tell me if it's already happened to a lamp-post near you.

The second was a "For Sale" sign on a bakery that we've been using ever since we've been here. All I can say is that the owner must have a non-business reason for selling up, unconnected with his products - because while they were uniformly excellent, his crusty baguettes 'Tradition' were the best in the area. Generally speaking, the one thing that bakers in France are rarely short of is customers. The buying of fresh bread on a daily basis is ingrained in French life. Sorry to see him go.

2nd October. As the 'pneumatic road drill' treatment on my knee (as described in earlier posts) didn't appear to bring any lasting benefit, it's back to the tried and tested injection of a silicon-based gloop (technical term m'lud) into it. It's a two-part process: first, the doctor had to manoeuvre the needle alone into the heart of my knee (a wince-making exercise if truth be told - my stiff upper lip has never been stiffer!) - then he attached the cylinder containing the product to the needle - all the time while discussing France's win over the US in the Rugby World Cup in Japan; the  state of play of the Brexit negotiations and then England's chances of progressing to the RWC Final.. He seemed to think we (England) stood a good chance. Personally, I think he was trying to take my mind off what he was doing! 

1st October. Nutty's fascination with the lizards in our garden has morphed into a full-blown obsession! He now spends his time by the garden door in the kitchen itching to be let out - and as soon as he's out, he darts around to his favoured viewing place in front of the border where the lizards are. He stands there absolutely motionless, staring intently for any sign of movement, poised and desperate to catch one. I think the lizards are safe though!

Answer: It was Henry Wadsworth Longfellow..

Friday, 6 September 2019

271. September in the Pays basque

30th September. I was watching the TV coverage of the funeral of former President Jacques Chirac from Saint-Sulpice when I heard this sublime piano piece being played. It's Schubert's Impromptu Op.142 (D.935) No.2 in A flat Major - played here by Daniel Barenboim and I later learned that it was President Macron himself who had been inspired to select both the piece and Daniel Barenboim's interpretation of it. The same piece was repeated over the images of the hearse as it drove away through the eternal streets of Paris, preceded by a phalanx of police motorcyclists. Very moving.

An avuncular figure, Jacques Chirac was renowned for his love of France and her people, and to many here he epitomised all that was good about France and he was well-liked across the political spectrum. He was equally at home at the Elysée Palace or at the annual Salon International de l'Agriculture at the Paris expo Porte de Versailles where he clearly took great pleasure in many of the things that France is noted for - including two of my personal no-go areas: andouillette and tête de veau. On occasion he would stay at Biarritz and reportedly would walk down from his hotel (Le Miramar) to the Hotel du Palais for a gin and tonic. Thinking about it, I thought that he had much in common with that great American president Ronald Reagan. 
Jacques Chirac 1932 - 2019
Schubert is a composer whose works I've completely overlooked. Here's Vladimir Horowitz with Schubert's Impromptu in G flat Op. 90 No. 3..
29th September. It was a beautiful September morning here in the Pays Basque and where better to spend it than at the Bleu Café, Biarritz contemplating the endless Atlantic breakers. A silvery mist hung over the town this morning and it seemed to add sparkle to the scene:



28th September. In mid-August, we had a break in the stunning Ossau valley.. to the south east of here. Take a look at these images of this majestic landscape which is off the tourist trail. Robert Frost summed it up best:
Two roads diverged in a wood, and I—
I took the one less traveled by,
And that has made all the difference.
Last December we were in Bordeaux in connection with my application for French citizenship (which came through by the way) and we stopped for lunch at Ragazzi da Peppone - one of the most authentic Italian restaurants I've been in. I noticed the other day that a branch has opened in Bayonne and if it's anything like its parent restaurant up at Bordeaux, we'll soon be regulars! Here are some reviews..

27th September. Time for a bit of Django..

26th September. In the 2019 Rugby World Cup being held in Japan, England played the USA in what turned out to be a mighty physical clash.. There was much "beef on the hoof" on show from both sides and there were more than a few ground-shuddering tackles that must have registered on a Richter scale somewhere. 

Piers Francis (Eng) was cited after the match for a high tackle on Will Hooley in the opening seconds that left the American full-back concussed. Meanwhile John Quill (USA) was sent off later on the game for a high tackle on Owen Farrell. 

England ran out convincing winners and I think they were fortunate to emerge unscathed. They're still making more handling errors than they should (said he from his armchair) but in their defence the ball was clearly slippery. They put some excellent moves together that, with a bit more assuredness, would have resulted in a bigger scoreline. But - let's not be greedy - this was a good win against a powerful American side. 
Here's a beautiful early morning shot of Bayonne looking south towards the misty Pyrenees.. showing the confluence of the Nive in the centre with the mighty Adour flowing from the left towards the open sea. The boat (right) soaking up the sunshine is a floating restaurant (still on our "to do" list after 12 years) with the colonnaded Town Hall behind it. Click to enlarge!
Sorry to have left the blog on the back burner for the past few weeks - but I've been very busy in the aftermath of the recent commemorative Comète weekend - so, like the mayor of Pompeii in 79AD, I'm waiting for the dust to settle. Innumerable emails in and out, photographs to gather and videos to piece together - plus I've got a symposium coming up in October on the subject of escape/evasion lines in and around the Pyrenees.. and much preparation work is required for that.
   
7th September. Nutty (our cocker spaniel) has discovered a small colony of lizards in the garden and he's become obsessed with trying to catch them. They lie immobile on our hot pebbled paths soaking up the heat only to take off in a frenzied blur when he charges up at them. He's way off the mark but that doesn't stop him in his latest obsession.

There was a letter in today's Daily Telegraph that caught my eye:

SIR – What country in its right mind would want to leave the world’s largest trading bloc and risk financial ruin by going it alone without a deal? What country, attempting to hold together a union of disparate political entities, would risk that union when many of its inhabitants do not support the break-up in the first place? What country’s leaders would be prepared to take a reckless leap into the unknown in the illusory hope of a brighter, more prosperous future, free from outside interference?
The answer, of course, is the United States in 1776.
They must have been insane.
Nicholas Young

London W13

6th September. Life has been increasingly hectic here with the imminent approach of one of the highlights of the year - yes, it's time for the annual commemorative Comet Line weekend in the Pays basque that will take place 13th - 15th September.. I've been busy translating innumerable speeches and preparing this, that and the other.

In the meantime, here's a long programme that features some of the most beautiful squares in Paris. If the commentary is distracting, just turn the volume down a tad. One particular favourite of ours is the Place des Vosges. If you want to go there directly, start at 23.47..

The square makes a defining statement about the French love of control of Nature, of planned formality, of "statement" architecture, of order and precision - and, in my view, a fundamental distrust of anything that looks unplanned by the hand of Man. In a nation sometimes seen as unruly and indisciplined, this square reveals and underlines a fundamental contradiction in the French character - a desire for order and symmetry in a disorderly and asymmetric world. This may be one of the reasons why they consistently fail to understand the occasional anarchic shenanigans of British politics! (like the rest of us then!)

We like the Place des Vosges for personal, entirely different, reasons! It's a fascinating place to walk around under the colonnaded arches - I'm not the world's best shopper by any means but there are some individual shops, galleries, restaurants and cafés there that repay closer inspection. Once there, there's a sense that you're in an oasis of calm. The centre of the square is formal - but despite that, it's one of our favourite places - and it's an ideal spot to ask someone a question. Enough. As the presenter rightly says, it's a place that's easy to overlook if you don't know it's there. See what you think:
1st September. If there's a month in which to visit the Pays basque and experience it at its very best - it's September. I realise I could be pushing my luck saying this but the weather is generally stable with average temperatures of 25°C; the sea is still warm; those seasonal visitors with children of school age have returned home - and finding a parking space in the same time zone as the place you are visiting becomes possible - maybe!