291. November rides again

31st January. Rain today for the first time in what seems like weeks. Also my supply of Sir Edwards' Highland Tincture has run dry.. I was surprised to see from the link that my preferred tipple - Sir Edward's Finest - is listed as 3 years old or more. There's no hint of that in the taste.. at least not to me. I'll be making a mercy dash over the border for some more in the next day or two.  

This next short clip was just by way of experimentation (the things you do when you're bored!). It's just a short video of our woodburner, filmed via my tablet.. It's worth its weight in gold in winter. The video seemed reluctant to run here so I converted it into a GIF file instead - another 'first' for me. However, the GIF image still takes a few seconds to load - so, patience! 

29th January. Still cold down here with the temps hovering around 0°C this morning. We won't be doing much lotus-eating today! Still, this cheered me up! 😁

27th January. I had a rush of what could have been cabin fever this morning - so I decided to take Madame out to lunch at Ahizpak - a restaurant on the outskirts of Biarritz with a distant sea view. Apart from the outstandingly good cooking, one plus point separates it from many others here and that is that it has a l-a-r-g-e car park.    

21st January. I was down at the beach yesterday morning and well-wrapped up as the car indicated 4°C.. (howls of derisive laughter from Nebraska - I hear you!) but there were people out in the water surfing! I've heard it said though that the water temp is often warmer than the air temp. I'll take their word for it.

Santa was kind enough to leave a bottle of "Highland Park" 12 year old single malt under the tree for me. After the fire had settled down to a red glow this evening, it seemed the perfect time to try a dram from Scotland's Orkney Islands. An interesting dram it was too.. (tasting notes here) The hint of smokiness was right on the limit for me. Glenmorangie (Original - 10 year old) remains the firm favourite at Pipérade Towers.. I've yet to find another that ticks all the boxes and satisfies both Madame and I. I was weaned onto it in the mid-1970s and I've never looked back. 

Unfortunately following its sale to LVMH (the French conglomerate), the original bottle was ditched and they started ageing the whisky in (don't start me off!) in Sauternes casks (why on earth would you do that?) and it gets worse. If you want to read up on what's happened to this superb single malt, the sad story is out there on the internet. Fortunately they've left the 10 year old alone.        

This cartoon hit the spot with me..

"How's the Psalms' title page coming along?"

15th January. Sunny with blue skies - but cold. If it's grey and wet where you are, light the fire/turn the heating up, make yourself comfortable and sit back to enjoy this - one of the great films of all time. (hope the link works wherever you are)  

13th January. Veronica Bennett aka Ronnie Spector - the lead singer of the Ronettes (you'd remember them if you were around then) passed away yesterday. They made waves with their style - although when looked at today, they appear a lot less subversive than at the time. Still, a great sound..

  

6th January. This time last year the surgeon was firing up his angle grinder ready to remove parts of my right knee prior to fitting a prosthetic replacement. After a slow start, that year has passed quickly.

This is a piece I've been hearing often over the festive period - it's Hector Berlioz's "The Shepherds' Farewell". This was one of the last pieces we sang in the choir before it all ground to a halt due to you-know-what. (Needless to say, this isn't our choir!)

 

5th January. The newsreader on the lunchtime TF1 news was discussing the sudden drop in temperatures - yesterday it was 18° here and today it's 6° - and he came out with an expression I'd not heard before that "il fait un froid de canard".. which means it's cold enough for ducks. Explanations here (in French) and here (in Angliche!). 

4th January. I was listening to the radio in the car yesterday and there was someone (I think) from the Académie Française explaining how they assign a French word (or words) to everyday words in English. The part I heard addressed the 'thorny' issue of Post-It notes. These will now be formally known as Notes Adhésives Repositionnables. Don't believe me? Try Googling it.

To a greater or lesser extent, intransigence and pedantry are part of the French character and the insistence on precision is evident in the "Notes Adhésives Repositionnables" mentioned above. Both the "Adhésives" and the "Repositionnables" must end in an s to agree with the plural "Notes". This is slightly obsessional to those of us of an Anglo-Saxon persuasion and it may be that this finicky eye for exactitude has been absorbed into their national character. I've been astonished to hear friends being sidetracked over points of linguistic detail and arguing - instead of just agreeing to differ and moving on. At times like those, it's clear that the French language is more than a language. 

2nd January. It didn't take long for the season of "peace on earth and goodwill to all men" to evaporate. I'd taken the dog with me for a walk into town to buy a baguette and I decided to return via the banks of the Adour. I was walking along a newly surfaced walkway (here) when I saw a group of three people - each with a small dog - approaching. Next minute, as we became a group of four, the dogs started sniffing each other and tangling their leads (as is their wont) and then there was a squeal of brakes as two cyclists came to a hurried stop - "This is a cycle path!" - "No it isn't - it's a footpath" - "It's signposted as a cycle track.." - "No it isn't!" - and so it went on. Neither side wanted to back down, let alone apologise. 

For some here, intransigence is the default mindset. I hate to say it but in England I don't think this would have happened - at least not in the England I knew. Maybe I'm wrong but I like to think that there would have been an exchange of  "Sorrys" and that would have been it.

Moving on, today we're going to have a raclette.. an ideal dish for winter (even though it's 18°C as I write) - but it makes a nice change and it gives Madame a break! We have an electric Tefal table top raclette (available here) and it's simplicity itself to use.

       

1st January 2022. We went for a walk at Milady Beach to the south of Biarritz this afternoon as it was - wait for it - an incredibly warm 23°C.. People were having picnics on the grass and I felt overdressed with a sweater on. What a beautiful start to the year. Happy New Year to one and all.. (OK, to both of you!) 

31st December. Here's a curiously likeable little video that popped up this morning..

   

30th December. We'd planned to go out to one of favourite restaurants tomorrow evening but given that the Omicron virus appears to be so highly contagious, we decided to err on the side of safety and so we've just cancelled. We decided that it wasn't worth the risk - plus if we'd gone out, I was planning to have only one glass of wine as there's sure to be a heavy police presence out on the roads. Staying at home means I can have two! (who said, "Or more!"😈)  

25th December. Returning from a walk along the beach on this mild Christmas morning (temp 15°) I put the car radio on to France Bleu Pays Basque and I heard this song being sung in Basque - a song that became increasingly familiar as it progressed. See how long it takes you to guess what it is:

   

24th December. A Happy Christmas to all -- especially to those who, for whatever reason, are unable to be with their loved ones at this time.. 

22nd December. Norman Rockwell was known and loved for his folksy paintings of an America that portrayed, and perhaps idealised (nothing wrong in that though), the optimism, family values and innate kindness that many of us believed characterised the country in the mid-twentieth century. More here. 

 

19th December. Here's a Christmas Carol (not a Christmas song!) or two to put you in the mood for the coming few days:

 

Last night I'd arranged to join in with Aeolia, a choir from Tarnos - as they'd planned to sing some traditional English carols at 5.15pm in the centre of Bayonne next to the Château-Vieux (interior photos here). But as Robbie Burns said - in his poem "To a mouse" - the best-laid schemes o' mice an' men gang aft a-gley. 

The Town Hall had planned a mass launching of Chinese lanterns on 4th, 11th and 18th December. In the past, this popular event has attracted huge crowds (of around 50,000) but due to the recent intemperate weather, the first two releases had to be cancelled so yesterday evening's event proved a great draw. All the traffic on the approach roads to the centre appeared to be static and as the witching hour approached, there was no sign of anything that looked like a choir. To be honest, standing in the cold waiting just about finished us off so we elected to head for home. The release of the lanterns took place at 7.30pm: 

   

As we walked into town the traffic was at a standstill as the world and his dog were looking for parking spaces.. Also, the arrival of Santa Claus on a huge float accompanied by dancing elves coincided with the time that the choir was supposed to start singing. We waited for a while but couldn't see anyone and in the end we left. Once home, I closed the shutters, put a match to the woodburner and poured a couple of attitude adjusters (I had a festive warming dram from Dr Speyburn (Dr Glenmorangie's locum)).   

11th December. I know it's shallow and I shouldn't find this motto funny - but there's just something about it that appeals to me. 

8th December. Into town on foot on a windy morning to pick up a few goodies for sending to friends in the Independent Coastal State (as England is now known in Brussels). I had my Barbour jacket on and I needed two hands at times to hold on to my umbrella in the gusting wind. Of course, I'd only been gone one minute and it started raining and hailing. 

In the town centre, the loudspeaker system was playing this (normally one of my favourite Christmassy songs) as I sang along through gritted teeth!😀 I turned a corner into a gale and it was only by executing a no-notice Cruyff turn (left) that I managed to keep the umbrella from doing an inside-outy. I arrived back home dripping wet.

7th December. It's 80 years to the day that Japan struck a surprise blow against the US at Pearl Harbour - and in doing so woke a sleeping giant. America came into WWII with its vast untapped resources of men, materiel and factories and from that moment on, the outcome of WWII became only a matter of time - not 'if' but 'when'. Four years later, the world looked a very different place.. with atom bombs, rockets, jet engines, computers, penicillin and many more inventions that would - for better or worse -  change our lives forever. 

Untold millions had died in the process and new crimes were added to the statute books. Once the dust had settled, new alliances were created - either willingly or under pressure - along with new borders and frontiers as countries re-aligned themselves in the New World order. In the West, the post-war alliances are still extant while the Warsaw Pact collapsed in 1989. Are we about to experience another global convulsion as a resurgent China begins to flex its muscles? Their motto seems to be "Softly, softly, catchee monkey".  

5th December. Predictably perhaps, the release of thousands of Chinese (or should that be Japanese?) lanterns planned for yesterday evening was cancelled due to the inclement weather. Just to emphasise the point, Mother Nature laid on a storm for us in the wee small hours that buffeted the house with moaning winds and deluges of rain that swept against our sturdy shutters. 

The evidence was clear to see on the roads this morning with piles of twigs and wet leaves scattered at random on the wet streets of Bayonne. I took advantage of a gap (or so I thought) in the procession of rain-bearing clouds to take Nutty for his morning run down by the sea (below). However, in the few minutes that it took to reach the coast, a wall of gunmetal grey/blue clouds had formed out to sea and we only managed 5-10 minutes before we had to beat the rain in a dash back to the car. Our cocker spaniel does 'indignant' very well!

While drying us both off in the kitchen, I switched the radio on only to hear a piece I haven't heard for decades.. It took me back to childhood - sitting with my mother in front of the fire at 1.45pm.. listening to a radio programme for young children. I think I would have been about 4 or 5 years old. How is it that these memories can survive being buried for so long in that grey matter between our ears - and yet I can't remember what we had for lunch yesterday? (Don't tell Management!😄)

 

3rd December. We had a wood burner installed a few years ago and it really comes into its own when the weather is cold, wet and windy - as it is now. The one we have is fairly similar to the one shown below - and with the shutters are closed, the stove lit - and a house call imminent from Dr Glenmorangie, life doesn't get much better than this.. (in winter!)

Our first Christmas card arrived today from England - and I was shocked to see the price of the stamp necessary to send a card from the independent coastal state formerly known as England to France these days - £2.55! A week or so ago I had to return a form I'd received from the UK State Pensions to certify that I was still alive. I had to pay 1.50 euros for a stamp to send an envelope containing a single sheet of A4. As much as we enjoy hearing from our friends in the UK at this time of the year, these extortionate postal rates are beyond the pale - so for those of you who customarily send us a card, we'd be more than delighted to receive an e-card from you instead..       

1st December. This virtual ensemble comprises 25 players from the Royal Philharmonic Orchestra and 218 singers from the Stay at Home Choir (just love that name!) - here's their spine-tingling rendition of Vivaldi's Gloria:

 

If the above video is reluctant to start, try here while I go around the back with a large hammer! 

30th November. Into town quickly this morning for some shopping and while there I took the opportunity to pick up a few of the last remaining bottles of Georges Duboeuf's Beaujolais Nouveau to keep for a rainy day - of which there's no shortage at the moment - so things are looking up! 

The centre of town was all a-bustle with the signs that Christmas is fast approaching: lights and decorations going up; mini fairground rides for kids being constructed; the appearance of stands selling churros; the mini locomotive with its hot chestnuts; and the clincher: the lingerie shop with its window full of <look away now!> black and red unmentionables!😉   

There's also the release of innumerable Chinese lanterns from 7.30pm on 4th, 11th and 18th December (weather permitting) on the banks of the Nive to look forward to. See here for further details of all the festivities planned for Bayonne. 

28th November. Just back from walking the dog on a raw November morning. As it was a cold and blustery day with rain showers blowing through it seemed like a good idea to put my duffel coat on for the first time since we've been here. It put me in mind of that classic film from 1953 - "The Cruel Sea" - when duffel coats were just about the only protection available for those on the exposed bridges of the convoy escorts in the wintry Atlantic. (Here's a link to "The Cruel Sea" - full movie - in English here) 

The sea must have been quite a sight to see this morning with the strong north westerly winds that have been blowing for the last few days. Last night as I closed the shutters upstairs I could hear the distant roar from the coast and I didn't envy those who found themselves out on the ocean wave. I grew up on the coast in England and yesterday there was something in the air that reminded me of home - it must have been the salt-laden air.   

21st November. It was a good day for (armchair) sport as far as I was concerned yesterday. In the Autumn rugby internationals, England squeaked home 27-26 against a powerful Springboks side, then Wales did the same against Australia winning 29-28 - before the result of the day in Paris where les Bleus beat the New Zealand All Blacks convincingly 40-25. In between all this, Lewis Hamilton qualified fastest for the Qatar GP. Then in the round ball game, Liverpool thrashed pretenders Arsenal 4-0 - and finally, Max Verstappen (the accident waiting to happen) has been handed five-place grid penalty for ignoring yellow flags during qualifying.    

9th November. We're now all fully jabbed-up as we 've had 3 x Covid vaccinations - and this afternoon we both had flu jabs. I asked for mine in my left arm as my right arm is my vacuum cleaning arm..😀

Citroën DS

How times have changed.. This - the Citroën DS (pronounced déesse in French - or goddess) was the futuristic car that was launched on an unsuspecting public way back in 1955 (yes, in 1955). The DS was known for its aerodynamic, futuristic body design and innovative technologies, and it set new standards in ride quality, handling, and braking - thanks to both being the first mass production car to be equipped with hydropneumatic suspension, as well as disc brakes. The 1967 series 3 also introduced directional headlights to a mass-produced car. 

At the risk of being branded a philistine (again), I have to say that yes, the DS is resolutely modern - it's different, it's bold, it's striking - it's all of those things - but is it beautiful in the way that early Jaguar XJ6s or early Porsche 911s are beautiful? Even today, 66 years on, the DS still has enough about it to challenge our ideas of what a modern car might or should look like. However, it has a certain brutality about it in a way that the two cars mentioned above don't. I think the expression that describes it most accurately is jolie laide. To my eternal regret, I've not been in one, ever - let alone driven one. I'm open to all offers. Seriously. 

Now, fast-forward 66 years and look at the Ami - the latest all-electric offering from Citroën (left).. The Ami is roughly cube-shaped (which presented a challenge to the designers) and the resultant horror is as different as you could possibly imagine (in your worst nightmares) from the DS shown above. Looking at the Citroën Ami, you could be excused for asking: is that the car or the box it came in? The answer of course is that it's both. It looks like nothing less than something that escaped from that children's TV programme "The Magic Roundabout". It's beyond ugly.. Yet someone will buy one. I've read that they're going to be imported to the UK - but only the left hand drive version. Good luck with that. The Islington chatterati will probably go for them - but I can't imagine the good folk of Widnes or British West Hartlepools taking to them.   

(Edited to add: I've already seen a few of these dorkmobiles here on the road) Watch this and cringe..

 

7th November. Sad news - we heard from a friend this morning that Jean Pierre Paroix, the owner/chef of les Bains de Secours at Sévignacq-Meyracq has decided to look for a buyer for his fine restaurant. It was never somewhere you would just stumble upon - indeed, finding it - even when you knew roughly where it was - was always a challenge. It would be true to say that it was buried deep in la France profonde in an unparalleled bucolic setting. More photos here.  

We were last there in September and, as always, it was a wonderful experience, unmatched by anything we've had elsewhere. His savoy cabbage stuffed with confit de canard, foie gras and minced pork will live long in the memory. What a great pity.. We were lucky enough to have stayed there on two occasions, both times for 3-4 days, to escape the heat and crowds of the Fêtes de Bayonne.. Thank you Jean-Pierre for looking after us so well. You will be greatly missed. 

5th November. This is a song that I haven't heard in a loong time.. and it's performed here by one of those virtual choirs.. but I think it works better if you set the playback speed to 1.25.. Try it!  

                                                                                                                                                 ↑  

Click on the Settings control (above) and change the playback speed to 1.25

3rd November. The "Hermione" has been opened up for visitors.. details here.

Back from a trip into town (in the car as it was raining) to collect the dog from the groomers. The narrow streets were full of people driving around looking for a space but I was lucky to find a paying space within a few yards of the shop. I grabbed a folding umbrella out of the car and went to buy a short stay ticket - only to be confronted by a new ticket machine with a minimalist screen that defined 'user unfriendly' - in fact, it was user hostile. (Don't manufacturers ever test their products with people who are unfamiliar with them? Grrr!) 

Standing under a torrential (as in torrential) downpour trying to figure out how the thing worked suddenly became all too much (I'm no Gene Kelly!) and so I abandoned the idea of buying a ticket, gambling that few parking attendants would be zealous enough to be out checking tickets in weather like this. After collecting the dry dog, I returned to the car and by the time I put him inside, he was soaked to the skin.. Some of the roads had lakes of water across them complete with waves! Just to make life interesting, the downpour turned into a deafening hailstorm as I made my way to the bakers where I was soaked again in the few short yards from the car to the shop. On the way home, I took a short cut the wrong way down a one-way street to avoid the worst of it and made it into our garage which was starting to flood. Fortunately we'd been emptying the fridge so I unplugged it. That's more than enough excitement for one day!   

2nd November. We've just finished the final few jobs that remained from the list that we started 14 years ago. The stairs and the upstairs landing have been carpeted; the floor of the downstairs utility room has been re-tiled; we've fitted a dog guard to stop Nutty from going upstairs (except when invited!) and we finally replaced the oversized downstairs lavatory with a more modern one that doesn't require an HGV licence to use it. 

Now we start again! 

1st November. I was out in the garden 2-3 nights ago as night was turning into day when I heard the unmistakeably raucous calls from overhead as thousands of migrating cranes from northern Europe and Scandinavia headed south for the winter. They appear to fly at all hours - I've heard them overhead at 3am. These latest ones were invisible in the half light but I expect we'll see more of their great flapping formations in the next few days.